Cutting out problems persist!......Help.

[Skindog]

Help please.......
Ok 1600 twin port....new carb,inlet manifold,fuel pump,plugs,009 dissy,fuel piping,fuel filter,tank out and cleaned,new gauze filter in tank,15 litres clean fuel......Engine starts on turn of key runs ok-ish from cold revs great....go and take it out on the road drives ok good power,but at every stop the engine cuts out.....tryed my mates carb on it and it does the same.....seams more to be when its warm?.....any suggestions would be most helpful as im now pulling my hair out with the bloody thing!....Valve clearences also checked and adjusted......Cheers Skindog.

 

[cyberdyne systems]

You could have an air leak from anywhere along the manifold, boots joints etc. Do you have a servo as there could be a leak from this source too. How have you set up the carb or does it only cut out when you have used it? Do you have all the thermostat and flaps installed and the original air filter with warm air intake (working)?

 

[easy]

Change your points and set, i think you will find it may just be that 8)

 

[Skindog]

New inlet manifold fitted with new manifold boots and steel gaskets at the cylinder head ends.....I shall re-ajust the points tonight,it was a new dissy with points/condensor fitted,the gap looked ok but i shall check and try again....cheers folks.

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

And you've timed it with a strobe with the engine warm and the choke fully off?
Should be 7.5 degrees at 850RPM, the 009 should advance to 30 degrees at 3000RPM

 

[moler]

I've had exactly the same problem on 2 mates Bugs, it was the fuel cut off solenoid wiring both times.

 

[BJ1]

Could also be tight tappets so check the valve clearances. If they are tight the valves are slightly held off the seats when the engine is hot so it won't idle properly. It will also burn the valves out within 4k miles.

 

[ozziedog]

My money is on the points or the condenser or the little wires in there :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :mrgreen:

 

[71Westy]

Does it idle on the drive? Or is it only when you stop at a junction?

I had a faulty solenoid, that partially cut off and showed the same symptoms. If you've tried another carb though.... hmm

As moler said, stick a meter on the solenoid feed and see if you've a dodgy connection there.

Nick

 

[RICH-I-AM]

Make sure the wire to the fuel cut-off switch is connected to the live side of the coil.
If wired wrong it will run well etc but will NOT idle.

Rich

 

[geenjay]

ok start at the beginning inlet manifold gasket metal is ridged on one side with a small hole between the two holes ridges go uppermost hole points towards the block if its the wrong way up it wont seal properly against the manifolds rubber gaskets that seal the inlets to the main manifold check them make sure you have a decent thick gasket between the carb and the inlet manifold the repro thin ones r shite a 009 dizzy ok set that to32, at 3000rpm setting it to 7.5 at idle is just to get it firing a 009 wont start to advance until about 1200 rpm hence the flat spot some people try to compensate this by richning the mixture i compensate by fitting a single vac advance dizzy the van reply's by running sweet no flat spot the 009 goes in the bin check the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb..turn on the ignition and then pull off the wire you should hear a click i dowt this is the problem as youve tried another carb check the valve gap/tappets..best done first thing in the morning when its cold they must be set cold my money is on a air leak somewhere in the system as youve said once warm it starts acting the goat metal expands with heat the gap increases more air gets in cocks up the mixture van stalls you said its a new carb BUT check the carb i replaced my old carb with a refurbished one from my mate ran crap bought a new carb ran ok for about 3 days then ran crap exchanged it for another new one alls well and has been for abought 3 months so far now im sure someone will scream oh god at what im about to say but hey.. im not telling you to do this im just telling you how i do it to..to check for a air leak in my system i take a can of easy start and spray lightly around the inlet manifolds..rubber seals ..spindles on the carb and anywhere else that i think might leak air try not to spray near the air filter and listen if the revs increase slightly theres youre leak but near the air filter will give a false reading..good luck hope this helps its no good adjusting the carb untill youve resolved this as the mixture wont be correct ..sorry if im teaching you too suck eggs just trying to help from a different view.... :mrgreen:

 

[Sausage]

What happened with this Skindog. Did you get it sorted and what did you do. Reason ask is that am having the same problem now.

 

[triothreetrio]

Hi I had trouble like this and it would die at ever junction etc unless you push the brake with your heel and tap the gas with your toes strange way to drive but this was cured by a new no return valve on the pipe that go's from manifold to the brake servo hope this helps

 

[Sausage]

Hi I had trouble like this and it would die at ever junction etc unless you push the brake with your heel and tap the gas with your toes strange way to drive but this was cured by a new no return valve on the pipe that go's from manifold to the brake servo hope this helps

Never heard of these before but can see JK and the like sell them. Stupid question coming up. Would i have one on my bus and how would i know/where do i find it. Its a 70 US import, 1600 Tp, 009, pict 34. Have tried the magic of Google but couldnt find much about it. :?

 

[71Westy]

Well do you have a brake servo? IIRC, 1971 was the first year to have these????

It would be in the thick pipe going from the inlet manifold (usually in the base of the upright piece where the carb fits) to the LHS of the firewall (where it goes through then under the bus to the servo near the master cylinder).

 

[triothreetrio]

I don't know thinking about it mines 71 us inport ie disc brake up front with sevro and there is a 1/2" ish pipe that go's from the manifold of to the left of the fan house up to the front to the sevro I only have 1 valve but I think it's best to have 2 in line

 

[Sausage]

Cheers for the comments people. Didnt think i had a servo but was having a dumb moment. Gonna try and crack into it this weekend and start with checking the valve gaps after having a wander down the seafront to check out the Brighton Breeze in the sun.