Engine bolt removal…

[YellowBay69]

Need help … removing stock 1600 engine and can’t get anything to grab the 17mm nut holding engine on - the top one nearest the clutch cable lever (if that makes sense)
All sockets I have foul on the case. As does closed spanner. Open ended spanner just doesn’t seem to have enough room to grab head.
I’ve searched forum - anyone any hints or tips greatly appreciated as need to get gearbox out asap.

 

[sparkywig]

socket, wobble joint, extension bar and ratchet

 

[YellowBay69]

Got it out ….lots of swearing. But good advice thanks

 

[67panel]

That coz some *** has fitted a nut and bolt when it should have a D head I suspect with nut in engine bay.

 

[naskeet]

That coz some *** has fitted a nut and bolt when it should have a D head I suspect with nut in engine bay.

That D-shaped headed bolt, which goes through the starter-motor flange, is the opposite side of the engine to the clutch-release lever.

 

[Martin L]

socket, wobble joint, extension bar and ratchet

Is this your take on what3words Sparky, or are you starting what4words?

 

[67panel]

Not on a single port engine, D bolt each side so if its an early bell housing it will have flats on both sides. I have come across some that have had bolts forced in and then its hard to fit any socket on. Normally its very long extension, u/j and a long ratchet to undo later bolts.

 

[YellowBay69]

That’s exactly what I was struggling with - couldn’t get a socket to seat on it.

 

[YellowBay69]

Got me thinking there so had another look. Definitely D bolt one side but not the other as the engine casting has thread for bolt - see finger

 

[sparkywig]

All engine cases made for doghouse oil cooler have the thread insert.

 

[67panel]

So use an allen bolt when it goes back together, head should be small enough to clear the D bolt casting. I used a bolt I found (converted my sp case to later threaded insert) with a 15mm head and built in flange.

 

[YellowBay69]

Good idea Thanks