engine code dilemma

[pottinger]

hey guys after some help here.

I am trying to identify what my engine is so if i want to go down
the twin carb route I know exactly what i am doing (famous last words :lol: )
asking / buying for.

I am confused by all this twin port / single port stuff etc etc and get more cionfused
the more i search and read :msn4: so just need some help lads.

Also the rear valance seal, should the bottom lip be below the tinware ?? (see pic)

Sorry for such a long / basic post but it may help someone n the future..... so heres pics

presume the bottom lip should tuck under ??

cheers for your time fellas, this is one steep learning curve :lol: 8)
cheers
Dany

 

[Trikky2]

Yup thats a twin port engine.

and yes the bottom of the seal should be below the tinware.

 

[pottinger]

thanks trikky2, so can i ask couple more questions
without gettin on anyones tites.

1, is the code for my engine missing or is it M ?? and how can you tell
its twin ?

2, what exactly do i need to goto twin carb ?

3, what would you guys do to it - ie goto twin carb / not etc etc
I have the fuel lines on order and will move the filter outa the bay but may aswell
make this decision first on carbs (i have enough line for twin) b4 fitting this.
Is it worth leaving all carb work to someone much more knwledgeable ?

soz again lads, but i have to ask at least once
and thanks sooo much for the help.

cheers
dany

 

[Trikky2]

thanks trikky2, so can i ask couple more questions
without gettin on anyones tites.

1, is the code for my engine missing or is it M ?? and how can you tell
its twin ?

The engine number is stamped on the case, directly under where the alternator support bolts on. The engine code letters are at the beginning of this number. If they are not there then the engine has either been reconditioned or built with a new crank case and the number not correctly stamped. The M on the side of the case is not relevant - its a casting reference.

Its a twin port because the inlet manifold is in three parts. Sp is a one piece manifold.

2, what exactly do i need to goto twin carb ?

You need the two carbs, their two manifolds, the linkage mechanism and some extra fuel pipe. If you are not experienced then its best to buy a complete kit from a reputable place who can supply kits ready jetted to suite your engine.

3, what would you guys do to it - ie goto twin carb / not etc etc
I have the fuel lines on order and will move the filter outa the bay but may aswell
make this decision first on carbs (i have enough line for twin) b4 fitting this.
Is it worth leaving all carb work to someone much more knwledgeable ?

Fitting twin carbs will improve performance and potentially mpg when driven gently compared to stock. More so if you also improve the exhaust flow. That said the investment in new carbs and manifolds is significant (£400-800 depending on what type) and the same money would buy a great deal of petrol.

Can you do it yourself? I cant answer this because I dont know how experienced you are.

ps. to help you get to know more theres a huge amount of info on the net so just google for it.

Plus you can get a copy of the owners manual here to print off yourself http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type2.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A worshop manual is a must have http://www.amazon.co.uk/Volkswagen-Transporter-Workshop-Service-manuals/dp/0856966606/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1314187312&sr=1-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[pottinger]

cheers for the pointers Trikky2

Am i correct in thinking this would be all i need for good basic setup
http://www.dellorto.com/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=26&PartsectionID=115" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
OR
would i need more stuff, ie tinware linkages etc etc ??

I kinda just want to price it all up correctly so i can makes a
decision etc ..

thansk again for any help,
cheers
dany

 

[james_stan]

The linkages are in the kits, no tinware changes required. I fitted mine earlier in the year and I did fit a 'balancer' tube
between the manifolds which requires some extra barbed fittings, drilling and tapping. This is not mandatory I understand.
Eurocarb also allow you to select kits/jetting according to engine size - which is nice.

By all accounts CB performance linkage is better and probably worth the extra especially if you plan on a lot of miles.

Cheers

James

 

[Trikky2]

cheers for the pointers Trikky2

Am i correct in thinking this would be all i need for good basic setup
http://www.dellorto.com/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=26&PartsectionID=115" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
OR
would i need more stuff, ie tinware linkages etc etc ??

Those kits seem pretty comprehensive and competitively priced. Personally I would phone them up to discuss the difference between the two twinport kits if your not sure which one to buy. The more expensive one sounds the better one.

A balance pipe is not a necessity. Its only purpose is to compensate for when the two carbs are not quite evenly adjusted, at tick-over and very small throttle openings. I assume your vehicle doesent have servo brakes - I cant see a servo vac takeoff in your photo.

You will need the tinware blanking plates to cover where the heat risers come through the tinware since you wont need/have any with twin carbs (its the thinner pipe that runs along the underside of your current inlet manifold) plus a blanking plate to block the large hole in the front right of the tinware where the hot air pipe draws from (if this isnt already blocked off by the previous owner when the current filter was fitted). Its important these holes are blocked off to ensure the cooling fan cannot draw hot air from under the engine.

However, if you a bit handy then you can of course easily make your own blanking plates since they are simple shapes that can be cut from thin sheet with tin snips and drilled and bent into shape.

 

[james_stan]

You will need the tinware blanking plates to cover where the heat risers come through the tinware since you wont need/have any with twin carbs (its the thinner pipe that runs along the underside of your current inlet manifold) plus a blanking plate to block the large hole in the front right of the tinware where the hot air pipe draws from (if this isnt already blocked off by the previous owner when the current filter was fitted). Its important these holes are blocked off to ensure the cooling fan cannot draw hot air from under the engine.

However, if you a bit handy then you can of course easily make your own blanking plates since they are simple shapes that can be cut from thin sheet with tin snips and drilled and bent into shape.

The blankings for the heat risers were supplied with my kit - forgot about the preheat hole though

Cheers

James