engine probs, any ideas?

[dancingqueen]

hi all, having a little trouble in the old engine dept!!!!!
evey time i come up to a junction the little cow stalls. ive done the points and plugs, coil good and ive put in a new distibutor. tomorrow im going to fiddle about with the dwell timing so i can make things worse :wink: any other ideas?

 

[Haveacamper]

i've got a type 4 block in mine, but used to get the same sort of thing. it could be cos the idle i possibly set too low. what i think was the reason for me stalling was the fact that i was meant to have a dashpot damper that gradually allowed the lingage to rotate back to its idle point. because the pin on my damper was broken and therefore not in contact with the tab on my lingage the revs just dropped off and stalled. not sure whether there is anything similar on the type 1 worth checking

NaFe

 

[sedan]

Have you try raising the idl speed a bit :?:

 

[HotVWheels]

check the vacuum pipes on the carb :wink:

 

[Joval]

Sounds like a blocked idle jet - what carb(s)?

 

[-tipi-]

If you're running original carb, does your idle solenoid (electromagnetic cutoff valve) get current? Number 16 in the pic.

Or does your intake freeze? If yes, probably exhaust circulation is blocked in it.

 

[dancingqueen]

thanks for all the tips, ive tries vac hoses, and current test. she even cut out at high revs a minute ago, then it took 5mins to start. i think im going for old shagged carb, i will let you know if the little cow gets better.

 

[VWAIRCOOLED]

It's going to be a hard one to diagnose without seing it.
Air leaks around the intake manifold to head or the rubber boots could be the problem,or a blocked carb.Like tipi has said,is the inlet manifold getting frosty just under the carb?

Try this first.Remove the air filter and get the engine started.Get yourself round the back with a good rag that doesn't fall apart.Then raise the revs to around 3000 and put the rag stright on top of the carb where the airfilter was.Hold the rag on and keep the throttle in the same position the engine revs will drop right down and then lift the rag off.Then the revs will rise to 3000 again put the rag back on the carb again.Do this half a dozen or so times and hopefully any dirt in the carb will be sucked out under heavy vacuum and will save stripping your carb apart.

Have you got a fuel filter fitted? Also what distributor have you got,the advance might be seized or the vac can leaking?

Before you waste money on a carb though check the valve clearances then the compressions.

 

[Araon]

The rubber boots sounds a good bet as VWAircooled pointed out....saying that mine were fucked (well and truely) and the engine ran fine at idle and at high revs though not on load (unfortunately still not on the road). A quick spray of something like wd40 around the inlet manifold with the motor on idle should tell you iff its leaking either the engine will struggle a bit burning the oil or youll see the air leak as the oil on the surface will bubble and fizz

 

[dancingqueen]

thanks for the info, going to do the rag on carb, i can remember doing that on a lada , dont laugh, the only car on the road when we had snow,

also going to re do the wireing to the feul cut off switch, you never know. but not tonight, a bit bloody cold out there.

 

[easy]

Could be the fuel pump diaphram has gone?

 

[-tipi-]

Could be the fuel pump diaphram has gone?

That shouldn't stall engine at idle only?

As Araon earlier suggested WD-40, diesel engine starting aid (basically ether) eg. "Start Pilote" will also cause rpms to rise when sprayed to leaking manifold joint.

Do you guys know the term we have in Finland "the right heel gas", which refers to pressing the gas pedal with your right heel while braking to prevent engine to stall. That's so common problem with aircool VW's 8)

 

[Joval]

Could be the fuel pump diaphram has gone?

That shouldn't stall engine at idle only?

As Araon earlier suggested WD-40, diesel engine starting aid (basically ether) eg. "Start Pilote" will also cause rpms to rise when sprayed to leaking manifold joint.

Do you guys know the term we have in Finland "the right heel gas", which refers to pressing the gas pedal with your right heel while braking to prevent engine to stall. That's so common problem with aircool VW's 8)

I was an expert after driving with a blocked idle jet for a week :lol:

 

[Guest]

i have the same problem on the beetle, reminds me of double clutching :lol:

 

[easy]

Had the same problem and it stalled at idle and higher speeds (just cut out??) changed the fuel pump and all great 8) worh a try if all else fails. At least you know you will have a new fuel pump on there for the future. 8)

 

[froggy]

You say you've changed points and plugs but did you also change the HT leads? Had this sort of problem on an old ford i used to have.

 

[Anonymous]

Mine did this when I first got it.
I just adjusted the idle screw on the left of the carb.
It's fine now.

 

[dancingqueen]

ht leads good, going to test for manifold leak at weekend, bloody good idea about the fuel pump, ill keep that one in mind. i went out for a ride yesterday and it only stalled once, im getting used to revving the crap out of her when comming up to junctions .

 

[easy]

Change the pump its only a few squid :wink: and at least you will have a nice new one on there for the season 8)

 

[olance]

i've just developed this prob as well a couple of days ago - have pretty new carbs on ..... along with a few other bits and pieces goling wrong ..... time for a trip to the garage me thinks!