Fresh engine build damaged after 800miles (engine builder refusing to fix under warranty)

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I know I am late to the party but when my own build engine did that on one cylinder, the reason for the conrod through the crank case was a snapped valve head. IE reusing a part that looked OK when I rebuilt the engine.
The valve was in one piece then.

So this incident might just be paying the price of using reused parts in a recon engine, bad luck combined with "getting a good price"
 
Thats oil starvation, same thing happened to the 1903cc drag beetle engine due to oil cooler pipes fitted backwards and old filter. Took no1 conrod out , I picked the rod bolts up of the track!! Bearing seizes and stretches the rod bolts and they come loose and then the cap comes off and rod gets trapped between crank and case. Yours could be down to oil relief valve sticking open? Did it have full flow and external filter?
 
Thats oil starvation, same thing happened to the 1903cc drag beetle engine due to oil cooler pipes fitted backwards and old filter. Took no1 conrod out , I picked the rod bolts up of the track!! Bearing seizes and stretches the rod bolts and they come loose and then the cap comes off and rod gets trapped between crank and case. Yours could be down to oil relief valve sticking open? Did it have full flow and external
Yes to full flowed, pressure good, maybe pressure relief valve.. but the engine was still running when I switched it off maybe half a mile after losing power, with a new noise, sort of whirring..

I found a valve head in the wreckage of the cylinder, and the conrod was S shaped..
 

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The amount of thick black silicone oozing out between the case halves tells me everything I need to know….

They’re a clearly couple of chancers who lash engines out of junk they have laying about. Makes my blood boil when decent, honest folk get tucked up by people like this 😡
 
Yes, I use the stuff for motor bike cases ,think its called "form a gasket" and is a thick goo paste. Never any leaks on all the ones I have built.
 
Yes, I use the stuff for motor bike cases ,think it’s called "form a gasket" and is a thick goo paste. Never any leaks on all the ones I have built.
You don’t need a “thick goo” for case halves unless they are warped or damaged on the faces, a thin smear of loctite 518 on the surface's is enough to seal, and the squeeze out (if there is any) should get washed away on the first start up since it is an anaerobic sealant
 
I said thick goo to try and describe it, its not that thick. If you remember the old "Osotite" that we used in the 70s and I think it was remarketed as green Hematite then its a slightly thicker sticky version of that. You only put a thin smear on.
 

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