Fuel in crank case.

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la_bigmac

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Hello all,

I noticed a very high oil level in my 1776 with twin weber 40 IDF. Carbs fitted late 2017 so not very old! Purchased from CoolAir.

The oil had a very strong smell of petrol, did an oil change checked the levels all good. Took the van out for a shake down all fine, levels all good. Checked it again the next afternoon and seems like I have an oil fuel mixture again!

I will check the fuel pressure but assuming that its not too high am I right in thinking I will need to check the floats?


Could this be an E10 issue and is its rebuild kit time? Really want to get at least one more run down to Cornwall.

What else can I check?

Thanks for any advise.
 
A fuel cut off solenoid might help as this will stop fuel draining into carbs and then into the engine. However you need to check the fuel pressure as well when the engine is running, to make sure it’s not too high. I don’t know what the recommended pressure is for your carbs, but for 34ICT’s it is 2.1 psi.
 
Might be all of the above or none of the above. Checking your floats is easy, a bit like shaking them to listen for fuel sloshing about and doing an underwater puncture test and give em a tiny squeeze and look for air bubbles. There’s no brilli repair for floats, it’s all a bit Heath Robinson so if there’s any doubt, buy new. My money is on the valve arrangement that the float governs. On my carbs it’s a needle and seat and you buy them new. They’re officially made of chocolate or chinesium now a days. Vitron tipped is the best allegedly but I couldn’t get any last time I had this issue so I’ve fitted standard crappo ones. So new needles and seats and check your floats, and check your float levels too. A rebuild gasket is usually a smart move.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,how old did you say (carbs not you) :)
 
Worn out needle valves are probably the cause of the fuel in oil, unlikely to be the floats but it's obviously a possibility. Viton tipped float valves for IDFs are available from Classic Carbs UK or Eurocarb, and are well worth fitting. Check the float height after fitting new valves.
 
Cool Air and all the other VW specialists!! I bought new shiny slot mags and within a few months they look shit because the lacquer being thinner on the edges has allowed oxidisation. The lacquer needs to be removed permanently and will be easier to upkeep. The rivet on the hinge of the quarter lights has rusted. Screws on the number plate light rusted. Metal body work pressings are made from low grade sheet metal made from poorly processed scrap giving micro pits which are porous and within a few months your pristine paint job has bubbled! So I am not surprised that your carbs are probably being eaten with ethanol. All these specialist vendors are selling china junk with a low cost to them but a hi premium by you. Opt for original where possible as it will be worth it in the long run.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. Work begins on Saturday! Shame as my carbs are running sweet since a recent rolling road tune up, will try hard not to mess up the mixtures. I already have an electric fuel pump, a fuel cut off solenoid sounds like a good idea, but would hide the issue. But it is safer.. Will put that on the Winter list of things to do.
 
Decide exactly what you’re setting your float level at, 6, 7, 8 , 10mil whatever you’ve read up on and make a feeler guage to that size from an ice cream tub lid or a margarine container. Cut it with a sharp Stanley and a steel straight edge. Cut a couple until you get one almost exact, you might even rub it down a bit but get it just a fraction small by a point or two then you sun see a slither of light . I’m a bit cray snout this and I use one as an exact and one a little smaller so I can the light,,,,, hallelujah ;)
I’ve got a thing about it’s impossible to measure zero but that’s as close as I’ll get.

Ozziedog ,,,,,,,,,,,or just use a meter if you like :)
 

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