gearbox flange seal and washer

[pottinger]

morning all

ok, just something that I noticed.

the order the parts came off the gearbox are

cap / circlip / flange / lock plate

BUT

then came a lock ring type washer which I presume sits
directly behind the flange as it came out with it (prior to the lock plate being removed).

Now my question is I have noticed its curved one side and flat the other
and I dont know which way it was when it came out

any clues guys as i cant even see this washer in the haynes manual ?

cheers
potts

 

[Trikky2]

Does this help?

 

[pottinger]

this is getting confusing.

the picture above shows a "wavy spacer ring" after the circlip
Mine did not have this and the Haynes doesnt show this.

however, haynes does show a spacer ring on the output of the
differential that would effectively sit behind the flange ?

now rearly confused ! :lol:

heres some pics
this is the order i beleive they came off (far left is the part i am talking about in first picture)

This is the spacer/washer whatever you wanna call it :lol:
You can see its bevelled one side and flat the other so it must be for a reason.

any clues guys ?
ta
potts

 

[pottinger]

just an update i didnt want to do the other side BUT :roll: had to be sure !!

the spacer/washer with a bevelled edge came out the other side
flat surface mating with flat surface of the rear of the flange.
in other words, slide the washer on bevelled edge first

I had no wavy washer/lock washer between circlip and flange on either side.

Haynes lists my parts correctly (ie no spring washer) but the spacer higher up the
page (sliding on the diff) is what I beleive is the bevelled edge spacer I found.
this is not shown in the manual Trikky has posted a pic from.

If so, they also have a bend in them that I beleive precisely distances the circlip
without the use of the bendy/lock washer sometimes shown/mentioned and hence
why some people have such problems removing/re-installing the flange ?

I know that with the spacer installed there is no way a wavy/lock washer could possibly
be used as the is no gap whatsoever imo.

Maybe in production they decided a spacer was better used than a wavy spring washer OR
vice versa ??

This is all presumption but its the best explanation i can come up with :shock: :lol: :roll:

cheers
potts

 

[pottinger]

All done and was a very simple job tbh.
the wider oil seals seated perfectly.

One question about the jagged "locking plate" as its called.
I noticed mine had slight play (5mm in total clockwise and anti clockwise)
which suggests to me you have to fit it tight on the output of the gearbox
one way or the other, hence locking plate BUT which way ?
I would have said anti clockwise but just wondered if anyone actually knows ?? Trikky ????? :lol:

cheers
potts

 

[Trikky2]

You fit it tight in the direction of tightening rotation eg. conventional thread tight clockwise, left hand thread (if you have one) tight anti clockwise

 

[pottinger]

:lol: new trikky would have an answer but not sure i get it :lol:

the lock plate is presumably stopping the "adjusting ring" from turning, but how do
i know which way is the rotation it wants to make ?

sorry for bein a duffus but if ya dont ask lol

ta
potts

 

[Trikky2]

In your case both clockwise but to be honest the amount of movement possible within the lock system is so small as to make no real difference :lol:

 

[pottinger]

cheers Trikky, mucho appreciated. lol, presume clockwise looking from
gearbox from passnger side, ie, clockwise towards front :lol:
potts

edit
i,m being a dumbass here arent i !!!! think i have realised :lol:

 

[pottinger]

Does this help?

Just noticed that in the piccy above there is an "O ring" seal
ie
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_O-ring-T2-gearbox_act_shop.product_pID_184944_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartRow=51" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

should this be replaced too ?? can the adjuster be unscrewed partially so it can be placed on ? or do
you have to remove the whole thing OR do you need to take other things apart internal to gearbox to unscrew it ??

Just whilst i am doing the drive flange seal, seems silly not to do this if its easy

any help fellas ?

cheers
potts

 

[67panel]

TBH i would leave it cos it adjusts/preloads the diff bearings.if you do decide to undo then mark it to aligne aqnd count no of turns to undo.

 

[pottinger]

TBH i would leave it cos it adjusts/preloads the diff bearings.if you do decide to undo then mark it to aligne aqnd count no of turns to undo.

i get ya, however, can i just undo it after marking or do you have to do anything from inside the box ?

it doesnt look like you have to completely undo it as the seal seems to be shallower than the thread depth ??

just the passenger side looks as though it maybe weeping slightly as replaced the inner seals filled box up
about two 4 weeks ago (still on axle stands) and there is a small amount of oil just visual between the locking plate
and the adjuster and i cant see any way it could have got between the 2 plates.
Just dont want to put engine back etc then have to redo if ya get me, but at the same time do not want to
do something thats not fairly straight forward :lol:

so, advice men, Trikky, where are you !!!

cheers
potts

 

[67panel]

true no need to undo all the way,but still need to count turns so it goes back the same,it will be fairly tight as well and you wont have a hex big enough to undo.hammer and punch might f it up :shock:

 

[pottinger]

.hammer and punch might f it up :shock:

:lol: :lol: wonder what f could be, free or uk :lol:

think i may have a little go and see, next week me thinks tho !!1

cheers matey

 

[pottinger]

.hammer and punch might f it up :shock:

:lol: :lol: wonder what f could be, free or uk :lol:

think i may have a little go and see, next week me thinks tho !!1

cheers matey

update update :lol:

jobs very easy and if you are changing the flange seals you may aswell do this too as
i believe these O ring seals are more of the leaky culprit than the flange ones !

Mine already had factory alignment marks (if yours hasnt mark it !). To get round needing a special tool
or using a punch that may f.up your adjuster, I placed the locking ring back on the adjuster loose
and used 2 bolts thru the locking plates screw holes, lined it up so the bolts sat in the casings recess,
placed a large socket extension between the two bolts rotated anti clockwise and it was enough to give me an
inch of turn, then remove the bolts and tap the LOCKING PLATES screw holes with a screwdriver (it moves reasonably
easy), mine undid spot on 4 turns to reveal the O ring seal that you can just pull off. Note there is no need to undo the adjuster completely. Put the new O ring on and do up the same amount of turns untill you alignment marks meet up, job
done.

Trust me, do not do the flange seals with out doing this too. I did and now have to purchase 2 new flange caps and circlips
to boot plus the time of re-doing the job. I could have left it but it would have always niggled at me knowing it hadnt been done and seeing a slight leak would have made me :evil:

Also note this is for the gearboxes with screw in adjusters NOT the bolted/gasketed/shim ones.

hope this helps someone in the future and if I get a mo will post some pics.

cheers
potts

 

[67panel]

NICE ONE ,not having done this wasnt sure how tight it would be,at least we know now 8)