Heating? Whats best?

[jimbope]

HI Earlybayers!

Been using the van this week for daily commute and its a bit chilly to say the least... :shock: . My Van has no Heat exchangers or the heating tube that runs from the rear to the front underneath (rotted off years ago by the looks of things!)- so I now have the choice! Do I:-

A) Get the standard heating system working - I will need Heat exchangers, the tubes between these and the steel `y` piece at the back, Weld/fit a new tube and service the cables/linkages etc. Now I have heard mixed reviews on stock heating but Im also of the opinion that if all correct as VW intended it should work to the required standard (not expecting modern car standards!) - my old beetle had quite good heating I seem to remember! I am also aware that these systems can be a bit `smelly`? Dont want to replace frostbite with carbon monoxide poisoning!!

B) Fit a Propex heater that fires heat down the original pipework. Now I know that The propex is quite expensive but I am also aware that `cheap` heat exchangers are sh&e so Im looking at 400 or 500quid either way I reckon! I quite like the idea of warming the bus before I get in it - I already have a gas bottle for the cooker. How effective are these when being used as defrost and heating as opposed to static camping heater?

C) Stop moaning and get on with it - but buy one of those 12v cigar lighter heater thingies and make do!!!

So you guys - those who have experiance of either- What do you reckon?? (I know the answer is probably fit both!!)

Your thoughts please!!

 

[Rexer]

I would say that the propex would be the way to go however you have to factor in the cost of gas which has gone up a hell of a lot....unless you know someone

 

[gninnam]

Another option is an Eberspacher which is petrol driven so plumbs into your fuel tank and uses next no fuel (well compared to what the bus uses...) and produces about the same heat as the propex

But, I would get your heating sorted first using the bits that VW intended first

 

[uber cool]

the things you can plug into a 12v lighter socket are not much use really as a heater, then can only draw limited power from the 12v socket and are usually about 300watts max, less than a hair dryer! Probably will defrost the window but not much more

The Propex kicks out about 1600watts, so will keep you warmer, or try a Eberspacher diesel heater, just need a small tank in the engine bay (opposite the battery), these go for about £200 on ebay, make usre you get the pump and controls with it as well.

 

[greggholmes]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-T...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b5640839

 

[Zcat7]

When I first bought my bus it had no heat exchangers but it did/does have a Propex. I picked it up from Devon in March and drove home to Essex, some 5 hours. I didn't know whether you could use the Propex on the run (new to the whole scene at that point...) and hence it was the coldest most miserable journey I've ever had... For that reason alone I went straight to the Sandown Park show and bought the parts to re-instate the heating system!

Right now I find that the aftermarket heat exchangers are OK so long as the outside air isn't freezing cold (like it is now...) as the reduced performance of the exchangers over the OEM part and wind chill on the tubes/exchanger casings just don't amount to much heat by the time it gets to the front. The benefit however is that whatever warmth you do get will demist your screen without having to open a window... I can't say that I had any unpleasant smells either other than a touch of the burning paint smell for about a week after they were first installed.

The Propex however works really well. I put it on about 10 mins before a journey, if possible, and it can get reasonably snug. I have had problems with the unit switching off if driven over around 40mph but I suspect that this is due to airflow around the inlet and exhaust tubes triggering the safety cutout. I have since re-drected the tubes and it seems OK.

I also found a 12v blower under the seat and tried to use it. I got more heat coming off of the lighter plug than out of the fan unit; burn't my bloody hand unplugging the thing... Useless.

I wouldn't be without the exchangers now but I am on the lookout for some OEMs. I'll even consider re-skinning old OEM ones should they come up. In the interim I have plans for some home designed insulation to help fend off the wind chill on the casings.

Neil

 

[jimbope]

HI Guys, Many thanks for all your input!

I have decided to start by reinstalling as much of the stock heating system as possible and go from there.

I have ordered 2 new heat exchangers from VW heritage - they gave me option of 2 qualities. The Cheaper ones were Danish - these seem to be the most commonly availible but they also offered OEM (or equiv) for about 15 quid a side more - So I have bit the bullet and gone for the (supposedly) better ones they (supposedly) have more fins in so (supposedly) more heat!

The plan is to get a new tube duct installed tomorrow night - Mine is missing - there are rusty remains at each crossmember! I plan to cut off the remainder of the tube and then cut a piece of 76mm OD tube exactly to length so I have to tap it in place between the members. I will the tack it in place and then get some high temp sealent to seal the tube against the members. I then have the rear Y piece to try and seal as it has a few rusty holes in it! Then I suppose I need to wrap the tube with something to try and insulate it from the windchill from under the van. Any one got any ideas?

Hopefully, once new exchangers are on at weekend and new exchanger-to- Body tubes (Just Kampers) are fitted I may get some heat!!!

There seems to be a couple of stubs (about 46mm) coming off the various heating ducts under van that are blocked off. I assume these feed the rear compartment? Not worried about these as I am primarily after getting heat on winsdcreen and in cab! I will ensure they are blocked off to stop and rogue windchill upsetting the job!

Will report back after job is finished with opinion!! fingers crossed!

Under the dash the Y piece that fits into top of the vertical metal tube and the tapered pieces that feed the windscreen vents are to be fitted to (PO gave me them in a box!) - Do they just `wedge` in place or do they need screwing somehow to hold them in place?

 

[Zcat7]

I'd be interested to hear how the OEM equiv spec ones perform, I don't believe they were available when I got mine as I went to VW Heritage and they weren't offered as an option.

I plan to use this stuff to insulate the exchanger cans using lockwire to hold it in place.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220666533635&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It's available in various dimensions from the seller, maybe this would be useful to insulate the whole pipe length?

 

[Zcat7]

I insulated my heat exchangers yesterday with that reflective sheet and the results look encouraging. I noticed the difference on a test run of just a couple of miles, from cold. Last week I did a 25 min run in the snow and I couldn't feel any warmth to speak of at the screen vents but now there's warm air. Don't get me wrong, there was no danger of melting the sun visors but it was enough to demist the screen and feel pleasantly warm to a frozen hand!

Neil

 

[jimbope]

I fitted my heat exchangers at weekend, They are from VW heritage as said before, the best quality ones that are built to OEM standards (even though they have made in taiwan stickers on them! :lol: )

The lever kits that came with them dont seem to make sense on my early bay so I have bungee corded them open for the time being.

I also fitted new `accordian` tubes (JK) to the rear Y piece. As mentioned above I had already welded a 1200mm long piece of 76mm ERW tubing which we use at work - light and strong. I just tacked welded this in place over the cut outs in the crossmembers. My original tube was missing- there was just a rusty stub at each end which I ground back flush. At the rear end the entrance to the Y was rusty so I cut a small length of 63mm OD ERW tubing which was a dead fit in the remains of the old tube thru the cross member - i tapped it (tight fit) so it went inside the Y piece. This gave me a good join. I then went round each end of the tube with some sealant. To insulate the tube I used this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200505483152&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1500wt_698" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It was already split and very easy to cut - I didtn use the self adhesive tape I just wrapped it round best I could and the used some HD cable ties right round the tube pulled tight.

Whilst I was at it I reconnect the small pipe from the front Y that goes back on its self to the vents at rear of walk thru with this ( as recomended on here!)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250711430060&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2576wt_757" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My Van has a 4 tip exhaust - unfortuantly the headers on this system obstruct the cardboard tube runs from the fan housing to exchanger - this must result in slightly less airflow. I guess for 100% heat you need a stock `pea shooter`!!

SO far (baring in mind it was -2 most of the day here and freezing fog driving home!) I do get warm air to the screen :shock: - enough to keep ice at bay. Obviuosly not as good as a modern vehicle but a lot better than nothing for sure! Not so sure ref the heat into the rear - there seems to be bugger all TBH. I dont carry passsengers this time of year so will keep the lever under drivers chair in. My attention is now on draughts - a thread in its own right for sure... I first of all stuffed rags into the vents that used to feed the long gone door ducting, that pushed more icy air to the `eye ball` vents so I stuffed rag into them which resulted in the drive home with warm air coming out of middle 2 vents and ice cold air coming out of outer 2!!! So tonight I have removed the grill under windscreen and opened the flaps (oo-er) and stuffed some towel into the ducts. Fingers crossed tomorrow for draught free, warm air drive to work!!- if I can get key to turn in frozen lock that is!!! :lol:

Now if I can demist screen without opening quater light I MUST now fix the dreaded closed quater light `wind whistle`! My beetles used to suffer the same years ago! Or maybe get the stereo fitted!!!

 

[dubdubz]

did you take any pics of the 'better' heat exchangers - interested in knowing if they do indeed have more fins

try the importers as they do have oem ones sometimes - they maybe beetle ones and need minor lever modifications, but they are still around.

 

[jimbope]

HI , Sorry I didnt take any pics - however Im assured that the `skin` on them is as good as OEM and they certainly didnt look short of internal fins!
SO far so good - Im sure a curtain across behind the front seats would help too.

 

[OLIVE-BAY]

i bought an oven off ebay lovely retro thing runs off gas, before my mrs drives it she nips out puts those part baked bread things in the oven for 15mins :lol:
also have the original heat exchangers fully working hhaaa toasty warmth arty0049:

 

[Sydney1]

Also worth remembering that if anyone is using a gas powered heater off butane it does not perform well below 10 degrees and probably not at all much below 5 degrees. Propane is the way to go.

 

[jacks906]

would that exhaust lagging that they use to keep engine bay temps down be good to use to keep the heat in the pipes and not letting the metal cool much?
just a thought :?

 

[bigdaz]

for the main tube and front pipes this stuff would work ok i would think might melt on the rear section though
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/62194/Plumbing/Copper-Tube-and-Accessories/Spiral-Wrap" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the cold air vent can be adjusted so they pull shut tighter by moving the rods to a different hole on the levers.

 

[jollatine]

I've put up with the cold in my 1971 early bay for a number of years now. This year however I could no longer take the cold and pathetic glove wearing, so I have built a partition in behind the front seats - a bit like a black taxi cab. It consists of a wooden baton over the width of the cab and screwed in to the top of the bulk head seats. Below this is a piece of ply to the floor level. From the baton up I have cut a piece of 2 mm perspex which is scribed into the curvature of the van and held in position at the top by the rubber trim on the roof conversion. When the weather is warm enough it is easily removed. I have to say, its as warm as toast, cosy as hell, and blocks out loads of the noise from the engine etc. I recommend it. I can post photos if anyone wants.

 

[gninnam]

Yeah, lets see your conversion

 

[jollatine]

hi Andy and others, here's a pic of the 'keep your warmth in' partition. I know we all like the walk through, but for a winter like this I'm going to stay warm and cosy!

 

[analord]

I need to sort my heating. I have not had any for 13 years and I have had enough. Either I go for a Propex or try and reinstall all the original VW stuff. Propex sounds better I reckon as it can be used when camping. A couple of questions though

Can I connect it to the original heating ducts so you get heating in the front and back
Could i install a fixed lpg tank and run it off that.

As its a Devon with original interior I dont really want to be cutting furniture, which is why I want to fit it to the original front and rear microbus ducting


thanks

Dylan