How I built my Interior units for my '72 Bay. FINISHED!!!

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Hi once again,

Went to see my van this weekend at Beetle Bank in Devon and have taken a few photos but there's not much to see at this point in time but hopefully my next visit there'll be a bit more progress to show you.

I've owned my bus for approximately 8 years and have always liked VW campers. My wife and I were on holiday in Devon with my son and his friend when we decided we would buy another vehicle. My wife then suggested buying a camper, my youngest son then turned round and said "You needn't think I'm getting in one of those" so the wife and I looked at each other and decided we were definitely getting one. So for the rest of the holiday, whenever we saw a camper, we'd stop to have a look and talk with the owners. We spoke to one chap in a car park and asked him what to look for when buying one and he replied, "Rust, rust and more rust!". We then went out for the day to Minehead where they had a small car show on the sea front and whilst walking along we found a guy with a Type 2 Bay window so we got talking to him and asked what to look for and he echoed what the previous guy said. He also mentioned that there was a big show coming up called Vanfest in about 2 weeks time (in 2002) so we decided we would go to Vanfest, talk to as many people as we could and look at as many buses as we could to get some ideas and then begin our search.

After coming back from Vanfest we had more of an idea of what we was looking for and what sort of money we would be paying, so the search was on. Fortunately we didn't have to travel too far, approximately 500 yards to the corner of our road because there was a Bay window Devon conversion pop top on an L reg just sitting there which never seemed to move very often. Fortunately my wife knew the owners father to talk to so we made inquires to see if he would be interested in selling it and a few days later the answer came back... Yes. We spoke to a mobile mechanic friend of mine who owned a camper himself and he came and gave it the once over and said it looked quite good. Paintwork wise, it had a really bad orange peel red spray with a white top but a full Devon interior including bunk beds. It had a reconditioned 1600 engine in the rear and ran quite nicely. After a test drive around the block a deal was struck and after parting with £1900 we were the proud owners of a Type 2 bay window camper. I still didn't really know much about these vehicles but I learn fast.

We used the camper for approximately 3 years in the condition it was in when we bought it in which time it had never given us any trouble and I'd had a good chance to look underneath. This bus was in remarkably good condition underneath. It only required small amounts of work to be done on it. I then asked one of my friends if he fancied doing Vanfest with us and his two children which he said yes as it'd make a nice weekend away. We hadn't even got half way there when he decided he wanted one too so the search was on once again when we got back. Within two weeks we had found another Devon pop top camper on ebay which was an MOT failure which he won for £1250. Fortunately my friend who is also called Steve, is an extremely good welder having been a coach builder by trade and a very good fabricator.

After 2 1/2 years of completely rebuilding his bus from the chassis up we started on mine, all that was required to be done was two new rear corners half way up to the rear lights, two new battery trays, two outer sills and one front off side jacking point. At some stage in its life it had a new front panel fitted which was rather poor quality work so we decided to take that off and replace it. We'd already done this on my friends so we knew exactly what to do. My friends bus was a 75 model which we converted to a low light with a step bumper. My own bus was a change over year but I always preferred the low light model so we did the same conversion with mine. The bottom part of the steps on the front wheel arches had the usual filler in but the rest was solid but decided we'd remove both arches completely which we did by drilling out all the spot welds so we could then remove them without any damage to the rest of the bus. We then hung the replacement doors on and realigned all the front wheel arch gaps to make sure everything was spot on before welding it all back up. It turned out to be a really good job thanks to my friends Steve. I then turned my attention to taking the bellypans off so the middle section unbolted and we took the air hacksaw to the outer panels and removed those and to my amazement it was absolutely pristine, you could still see the factory colour which had a minor oily look to it. The only little repair we had to do was a small repair patch to the inner sill at the front on the near side. The bus was extremely straight down the sides with no visible dents when all the interior was removed, but it had had some shoddy work done in its previous life apart from the front, someone had put the two rear corners over the top of the existing ones and to make it worse, had gas welded them on hence loads of distortion and it had just been skimmed over.

The bus has always been a work in progress bus but now it was time to find someone to prep and paint and finish off the jobs which I'd run out of time doing. My friend was fortunate enough to have a really good workshop which was his companies which allowed us to do the majority of the work on the buses but the business moved to Suffolk so we ran out of time to finish off the work on the underneath of the bus which consisted of fitting the rear lowering spring plates and new back plates, wheel cylinders... etc...

I spent near on 3 years looking at peoples work and talking to them. I spoke to quite a few which promised to do this and that but some never came back with an estimate. I looked at others works and decided that it wasn't for me. I then read an article on Beetle Bank in the VW magazine on a beetle restoration project. As the company was based in North Devon and not too far from where I have a caravan we decided next time we were down we would go and have a chat. Carl was the first guy who spoke common sense and didn't do the sales pitch and just literally told me what he would do to the bus and I liked what I heard. We then went away to think about it all and in the mean time spoke with people who Carl had done work for and visited him on a few more occasions and was told exactly the same thing which I was told the first time and so decided to place my bus with Carl at Beetle Bank. It has had to sit in line for a while because there was a beetle plus a splitty in front of me but now the work has started in the last few weeks hence not too much to see at the present. During the course of waiting for the work to start, I decided to add a few extra pieces to be done. We never intended for the pop top to be removed but always knew in the back of my mind that once the bus was finished it would look the business until we put the pop top up and then the bellows would let it down so we decided to have the roof completely taken off and new bellows fitted which turned out to be a blessing because Carl found two holes rotted through the roof underneath the fibre glass skirt which wasn't visible until the top was removed. This is the only part of the bus we have never seen so it was a good job it was removed.

Here are a few of the photos that I took at the weekend just to show you the stage it's at at the moment and how solid the bus is. Every single piece of paint has been removed from the exterior of the bus and at the moment it is just in etch primer. Carl has been busy seam welding the rear corners and other areas where new panel work was fitted. There are two small patches still left to be done in the rear wheel arches, as can be seen in the photos and a couple of seat belt mounts in the front and some small repair areas to the door shuts. I was fortunate enough to find a NOS near side front door but wasn't cheap but was the right way to go. The sliding door was absolutely perfect as was the tail gate but have replaced the engine lid.

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This is under the front wheel arch. I cleaned off all the under seal and it came back to bright orange paintwork which I have given a coat of black hammerite smooth at the moment.

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The rear floors are perfect.

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You can see how clean the interior is.

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Small amount of repair, approximately a couple of inches to be done on the lip of the rear wheel arch just before the curved area. Carl is giving it a thin skim of filler which he will then flat back so it is perfect.

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This is a shot of the underneath. You can see how solid it is.

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These are the only dents on the bus.

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You can see the small repair to be done. This will be cut out and a new section welded in.

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Carl's very tight for floor space at the moment so some of the stuff has had to go in the bus.

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This is the patch which Carl welded in the roof after removing the pop top. Note how neat his welding is.

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Hopefully Carl will be emailing pictures throughout the project and I will be visiting again in about 4 weeks time so more to come then.

After being in the bus scene for about 8 years now, I can't believe my luck that I only had to go to the bottom of my road to buy such a solid bus compared to what other poor devils have to go through.

Hope you like what you see. If you do, leave a comment.

Regards

Steve
 
Happy new year. Here are a few more pictures of what I've been up to over the Christmas period.

I've now finished the internals of the draw in my unit. The internals are made of 6 pieces of timber which are just loosely put together at the moment so that they can go off to the trimmer to be lined in black baize at a later date.

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I then decided that I would like an aluminum canopy to fit on top of the unit. I had an old tatty one which was too large so I decided to scale it down smaller and rather than alter this one I made myself a new one from scratch. First I started by setting out the dimensions that I'd needed for the width and the height and the back sections which I marked on to some spare aluminum left over from doing the rest of the unit.

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This aluminium is nice and easy to cut, I can cut it with a stanley knife. After cutting the first section of the back out I then needed to fold the edges over to give it some strength. I allowed extra all the way around when I cut it to allow for my folds to give it strength. The way I did this was by over sailing the amount I needed to fold on a piece of MDF, clamping another piece of timber on the top and then dressed the edge down so I've got a nice straight edge. I allowed about 5mm extra for the fold.

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Once I'd got it to the 90 degrees, I could unclamp it, turn it upside down and then dress the edge over flat. After doing this on all four edges and then repeating it on the smaller section which fits above the back.

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And this is how it looked when finished.

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I then needed to make two new side sections. I did the same procedure as above but these are tapered, the bottom is wider than the top. I allowed an extra 12mm around the edge of this for the fold. Because the aluminum was reasonably thin I decided that the sides needed some more stability so after folding all four edges at 90 degrees, I then cut another section of aluminum that would drop inside and then went around with a thin bead of panel adhesive and put Gripfill in the green tube (wonderful stuff, the only one to use) and then I folded the edges down making sure that I mitred the corners to avoid getting a double thickness on all corners. This then gave me a double thickness of aluminum with a folded down edge all the way down. On the wider edges which I folded, I used a block of wood and dressed it down by hand and once I'd completed the fold, I then put a block of wood on the top and dressed it down nice and flat for a perfect finish.

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I then took the original aluminum hinges off the original canopy and trimmed them down to size. These were attached by aluminum pop rivets which I drilled out to remove. These were then cleaned up with scotchbrite ready for reuse.

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Here's the top section I made to fit on the top. To do this I had to have a double fold on the top as I wanted 90 degrees so I allowed 30mm extra oversail for my finished size and then folded the first 15mm flat and then turned it again up to 90 degrees. I then attached the hinge to the top and then made some aluminum gusset sections which I pop rivetted on to the top front corners just to give it some strength. All the pop rivets were aluminum and hammered flat again to match the original.

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Once I'd carefully put all my hinges on, then came fitting it to the unit. I had to make sure that once it was all folded up I had enough depth from the top of my rings to the top of the side of the unit so that the top sat back on flat so I firstly mounted the sides and then after carefully working out I could find the position where the back would go because the sides fold in first and then the back just folds down on top of the sides. These are the finished pictures. Hope you like what you see. This once again was made out of the scrap aluminum which I got from work so once again cost nothing to make.

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Thanks for looking. Any questions, feel free to ask. The next post will be on how I'll be making the box to house my subwoofers.
 
Hotrod said:
...The next post will be on how I'll be making the box to house my subwoofers.

Can't wait - this is easily one of the best threads on the whole forum!!!

Thanks again for sharing - the standard of work is incredible!! 8) 8)

;)
 
Very nice 8) the place where you bought the aluminium edge trim is only 5 min drive from my house,and I didn't even know they did such things.Good post and very inspiring
 
This must be the worst thread on the forum :evil:







Only because it shows how inadequate at DIY.......

Keep up the quality mate as I am sure it is inspirational to us all on here ;)
 
Totally blown away bud. Absolutely amazing, I can't wait to start on my interior now. Somehow I don't think it's going to be to the standard of your handiwork :(
 
Hi guys,

Just felt that I needed to say a big thank you for all your fantastic comments. They also help to keep me motivated to finish my interior. There's still a way to go yet with the building of the subwoofer and speaker pods to go underneath my rock 'n' roll bed and also designing and building a centre console which will go between the two front seats which will house my head unit so I can keep this out of sight.

As for taking orders... Unfortunately with work commitments and time constraints I just couldn't do it but thanks for asking. I've been a joiner for 48 years and the object of putting this thread together was to motivate people into having a go themselves and to offer any advice where needed but I never thought it would be this well received. Once again a big thanks for everyone that have looked and left brilliant comments, I'm totally bowled over. If someone can build themselves an interior which they're happy with the level of skill you have then that's absolutely brilliant and that's exactly what I wanted. The secret is to take your time, don't rush as it's all about patience.

As I said before, if anyone needs any help or have any questions then feel free to ask.

Regards

Steve.
 
Hi guys,

Been busy since the last post. As I said, I've been making my subwoofer and speaker pods to fit underneath the front of my Bluebird full width rock 'n' roll bed. I wanted to do something a little different and also give me a little more space inside the locker so here's what I did.

To start off making the box for the subwoofer, first I needed to know the cubic capacity of the box. I'm using a 10" woofer which required a box size which would give me 18.4L. We converted that to inches which worked out 1122.836 cubic inches. I'm not that clever so we googled it all to convert it.

Once knowing this I worked out roughly the size of the box that I would like to make to fit in then worked out the cubic capacity of that box with the figure that it should be. By doing this I could then change the shape of the box in the depth or width to suit the size required. I kept checking the sizes until I got it perfect. I don't think it has to be that critical but I wanted it to be as near as I could to the manufacturers guidelines. Again you have to remember you're working on internal sizes so if you're using 18mm MDF you need to add 36mm in your height, width and depth. Once again I trimmed the MDF to as near required with the jigsaw and then cleaned it up with a profile cutter like I've shown before.

Once you've got the four sides and the back on and all glued up the thing to do then is to go around the inside edges with some gripfill or silicon to seal it up but at the moment I haven't done this.

Then we come to cutting the front for the speaker. I fitted the front first and cleaned everything up and then took everything off to cut the hole. To cut the hole I wanted to put the speaker in the center of the box so the easy method of finding the centre was to draw a line from corner to corner. I needed to cut a 10" hole so I made a small tremel rod out of a piece of card. I'll explain under the photo how to do it. The overall look which I wanted was to have a 6x9 speaker either side of the front of the seat and the sub in the middle but to give me some extra room in the locker I brought the front of the sub out through the front frame an extra 3". To make this look correct when finished I then made another front panel which fitted over the front of the subwoofer with two splayed ends which then run back onto a flat panel with the 6x9 speakers on either side. I then made two small pods to go on the back of the 6x9's speaker panels.

Now for the photos.

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Here I took a piece of card and put two marks on it 5" apart which is half my circle, banged a panel pin in one end and then pushed a sharp pencil through the mark on the other end. Then I drilled a hole on the center of the cross and pushed the panel pin in. Little tip here... You can drill small holes with pins by cutting the heads off and putting them into the chuck of your drill (See picture below). I then used the tremel rod to swing the arc round to draw my circle.

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When drilling with small drill bits, the smaller the bit, the faster the speed required.

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This is how to make a jig to cut a circle out with your router... It only takes about 5 minutes to make. I used an offcut of 6mm ply and cut a small aperture at one end so I could see the cutter then screwed this through the base of the router. I then measured from the outside tip of the router back 5" and drilled a small hole again with the pin in the drill. I've drawn it on the underside of the ply so you could see what I did.

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Then I could set my router up to router through the front so I had a nice neat and clean hole but you could cut this with a jigsaw because it isn't actually seen once the speaker is fitted but I wanted to show you how to do it using the router. Turn the router up the correct way and put the pin in the center of the hole where you swung your cross, tap the pin in, cramp down your piece of mdf to a scrap piece of board underneath. The reason for this is because you're going to machine the center right out and you don't want to damage your work top. Once you've done this then switch on your router, plunge the router down about 2mm, lock it up, put your hand on top of the router and then you can swing it round in a clockwise direction. Switch it off then check across your circle to make sure it's the desired size, if everything's fine then switch it back on and plunge another 3mm and repeat. Keep repeating this process until you've gone all the way through.

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Once I'd done this then I could screw the front back on temporarily and move on to my 6x9 speakers.

Once again I'd pre-made my two side panels as before trimming with the router and then marked out my electrical holes. For this I used one of the trims that comes with the speaker. I drew a cross across the front of my panel so that I could get the olyps correct. Once I'd got that done I'd marked it onto both mdf fronts. To cut the openings out I just jigsawed them out as near to the line leaving approximately 2mm on and then free hand trimmed it back to the line with the router. I then squared through where my crosshair lines were on the front through the opening that I had just cut out and then laid one on top of the other. By lining those marks up on the two pieces of mdf I could then draw my second cut out. That way I knew all my edges would be square and the openings in the same place. I then repeated the cutting and trimming process.

See photos below.

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I then put a rebate on the two inside outside edges but on the outside of the panel. The reason for this is once I'd made the splayed section it was going to sit over the front of the subwoofer, the edges of the splayed section would then sit in the rebate. The advantage of doing it this way is once this is finished, it will be trimmed in vinyl, it can then be wrapped round the ends and wrapped into the rebates in the side panels so when it goes together you just see a hairline joint where the vinyls meet. I could then screw from the back of the outer panels into the back of the front splayed section. Once it was all finished, all screw holes were two pack filled and then flattened and all external edges had a small round put on them for a nice effect when vinyled. I then made two simple pods to fit on the back of the 6x9 speakers. See photos for how I did this.

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Because of the way the front frame is constructed on the bed, I had to put a 3mm deep rebate on the inside of the top of the 6x9 panels so once in place they all sit flush up against the steel work to hold in place which will also hide the wrap over on the vinyl so it all looks nice and neat on the inside as well as the outside.

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I had to slope the top of the pods for the 6x9s because there are two small cradles that hang down the end of the rock 'n' roll bed.

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Here I'm gluing the back on.

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These are the pods once they'd been finished and tidied up. These again will be sealed inside and then the two pods and the subwoofer will be lined with wadding.

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This is screwing the two side panels to the front panel.

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This is the finished article. Once this is covered in black vinyl, each speaker will have 5 chrome bars across the front. I didn't bother showing how I did the splayed section as it's just like making another box but if anyone wants to know, just ask and I'll go through it with you.

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This is the subwoofer box all complete and cleaned up.

Once again I hope you liked what I built this time. Any comments would be much appreciated. The next post will be the design and build of the centre console between the front seats. To achieve what I have in my mind for this is going to take me a little while to work out to get it all to work correctly.

Regards

Steve

P.S. Do you think this could possibly be the bargain of the last decade?

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I came across this about 4-5 years ago at a boot sale in North Devon. It's in full working order and cost me an arm and a leg... £12!

I'm off to BeetleBank this weekend so will hopefully have more pictures of the bus to show next week.
 
As usual, fantastic pictures and descriptions of what you did, how you did it and why :D

Food for thought with the enclosures for the speakers as most people just cut the holes in and leave the back of the speaker with no protection so I like it very much ;)

As for the Propex heater - I think you were robbed - it was originally on at £10 :lol:

Keep the pics coming.
 
Hi guys,

Been to visit Karl at Beetle Bank this weekend. Got up at 3am on Saturday morning, left at 4am on the dot and got to Karls at approximately 10am. Then left Karl at 4.30pm, grabbed a bite to eat and set off for home around about 6pm and got back at about 11.30pm... Total mileage, just under 500 miles. So just a relaxing day today and haven't done anything.

The restoration is now gathering momentum. When I arrived, Karl was busy replacing a section of the top left hand rear corner where the tailgate shuts. This had rotted through behind the rubber seal and wasn't visible to me until Karl took the seal off when he stripped the paint. Fortunately Karl cut a replacement panel from a scrap doner vehicle. This rear area was made up of three sections, the outer skin and the inner skin and also a structural section behind that. The inner section also showed signs of rot so Karl being Karl, cut out both sections and replaced them both from the doner vehicle. Here are some pictures.

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Here's the inner skin being scribed in and welded.

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Here's Karl busy welding away...

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Here's the outer skin after Karl had finished scribing and tack welding it into position ready for the final weld.

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Here's the finished panel all ready for grinding and polishing flat on Monday.

Karl has decided, being that the bus has been sat for quite some time in the original primer which he sprayed approximately a year ago, he's decided to strip it back and respray it again. You can see the areas that he's done at the moment in the dark grey.

Now the reason for my visit this weekend was to take a template of the floor in the living area and trial fit my front to the rock 'n' roll bed which houses the two 6x9 speakers and subwoofer which I had just finished in my last post. First job was to lay into position the rock 'n' roll bed frame, from this I could then fit my new front into the steel frame supplied by bluebird. To fit the two end panels, I had to scribe the two outer ends to the profile of the sides of the bus, to do this, I just put a mark on my steel frame in the center, put my panel in position and just let it butt up to the outer edge then looked how far the inner edge passed the line on the steel frame, set my compass to this amount then scribed down the end, then cut the curve with a jigsaw and then it fitted perfect. After repeating this on the other end, I could then put the whole panel together and assembled it into the frame, then I could stand back and have a look and see what I thought.

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This is the view from the front elevation. Note the scribe on the outside edges. These will be reduced by a further 5mm either side to allow for the vinyl and a small amount of clearance from the side panels so nothing will be chaffing against each other.

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This is a side elevation view. As you can see the front enclosure stands proud approximately 75mm. It's had the desired effect which I wanted on my front panel and also the added bonus of being able to push the subwoofer into it and giving myself another 75mm behind in the locked area.

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As you can see, the reason for me sloping the tops of the 6x9 pods was to miss the two loops on the underside of the bed.

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Here you can see the extra 75mm space which was saved by moving the subwoofer into the front splayed housing. This will help with giving extra clearance from the face of my propex heater when fitted.

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I was very pleased with the end result, everything has worked out just as I'd hoped. The only adjustment to be made will be for Karl to move the spigget which comes from the main heater tube running through the center of the bus up to the propex heater as it needs to moved back approximately 60mm to clear the front frame. This I put in a few years ago which I had a different bed arrangement hence having to reposition but apart from that everything worked out really well. The finish on the back of these units inside the locker will have a stonechip effect and then sprayed in the same colour as the bus just to give it a nice finish on the inside of the locker when you lift the bed up to access the locker.

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I also brought down my unit which houses the cooker just to stand into position so I could check clearance from the front of the bed in the open position to the front of my unit and also to check I've got enough room to get my hand down the side to open the sliding door. I haven't got my seat unit which house the television as that's still with the upholsterer but I know it is 850mm wide so after checking my dimensions everything has worked out fine so really pleased.

The next job was to template up the walkthrough area taking dimensions as such as where the seatbelt mounts are and the shape of the two side cheeks where the seats fit through, from this I can then work out how I'm going to design and build my centre console. My amp will be mounted in the seat behind the panel where the tv sits which will free up more space in the locker where the speakers are.

Here are some pictures of the bus so far...

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Karl has stone chipped the inside of the bus. This will add to the sound deadening when the bus is finished.

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This is the first of the areas which has had the old etch primer removed and the new one applied.

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Here you can see Karl has removed the blister from the front panel. He first profiled a square panel which he then scribed to the front which was then butt welded in.

That's it for now... I can't wait for my next visit in approximately 6 weeks.

Thanks for looking and I hope you like what you see and please leave comments as they're much appreciated. Any questions please feel free to ask...

Regards

Steve
 
Hi guys,

Been a while since my last update. Have been working 7 days a week so haven't had much time to do anything.

I've now finished off my speaker grills and have taken them to Lee the trimmer to be trimmed in black. I've started to make a parcel shelf and have gone as far as I can with that and need a trial fit which I'll do next time I go to Devon to see the camper which will be the weekend after next.

I've got pictures from my recent visit two weeks ago where Karl had bare metaled all my doors and engine lid. The sliding door is the original and is an unbelievable condition with no rot whatsoever!!! Tailgate is also in an amazing condition with just a tiny repair needed where the rubber fits, the engine lid is a Californian replacement which I picked up at VanFest last year, the passenger door is NOS and the drivers door was picked up at Peppercorn a few years ago and needs a repair underneath as usual but otherwise solid. When Karl bare metals something it really shines! I've also included some photos of the bus that Karl has just finished which debuted at the Volksworld show and acheived a best in show award! This bus is now going to be featured in the Camper and Bus magazine (I think it'll be the June edition). Check out Karls workmanship and Lee's trimming abilitys and judge for yourself.

Here's the pictures of the progress so far...

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Here's the ring I cut out of MDF approximately 14" wide and 10mm thick which sits in the rebate inside of the speaker front as seen below...

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Here you can see how I fitted the grill material. I started by taping a piece of cordex to a piece of board and putting two crosshair lines through it.

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I then laid my speaker front face down on top of the Cordex and lined up the crosshairs that I'd marked on the speaker front. I then removed the speaker front and laid my speaker grill material on top of the Cordex, taking care to line up the pattern in a straight line running horizontal, the reason for this is so that once you've finished the speaker grill the lines are running nice and horizontal through the front of the speaker panels.

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When I was happy that I had everything lined up nice and straight, I then pinned it out with some strips of scrap hardboard to keep it nice and taught and straight. I'd previously put the crosshair marks onto the black oliptical frame. When I was happy everything was nice and taught and straight and lining up with the crosshairs, I then glued the fabric to the black frames using Instant Mitre glue. This is an aerosol spray and a bottle of superglue, I put a squirt of the glue on the face of the frame and then quickly sprayed around the edge of the mesh and then placed the black frame onto the mesh, this is then instantly bonded and as such you only get one chance. I then removed the strips of hardboard and lifted the fabric and frame from the plastic Cordex .

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I then trimmed some of the excess mesh leaving enough so that when the black frame is pushed into the rebate it will fold it up into the edge as well. I then laid my speaker on the top of the black frame, marked my holes to bolt the speaker down and then removed the black frame and drilled the holes through it and then inserted four bolts from the face side and then secured my speaker to the front frame. You know have your speaker with the black frame and mesh bonded to it altogether as one unit. I then sat this back in the speaker face as a complete unit and made some small stainless steel brackets which fitted over the bolts which hold the speaker in which enabled me to screw to the inside of the speaker face. This took quite a bit of thinking about to come up with a successful method of getting the material nice and taught and straight and holding the speakers in as well. The end result works really well.

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All Lee has to do now is remove the screws holding the stainless brackets to the inside of the speaker face, he then trims and wraps his vinyl into the rebate and then refits the speaker pod which finishes everything nice and neat and no fixings are visible from the front of the speaker face.

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I then bought some chrome D handles which fit to cupboards. You can buy these in different amounts of stand off but I chose 30mm as I don't want to use them as a handle. I then sat out and drilled the front and fitted them to the front of the speaker face. I have also repeated this on the other panel and the centre of the subwoofer so when it's all complete it will all be in black vinyl with 5 bars over the speaker fronts.

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I've looked around at aftermarket parcel shelves and couldn't really see anything that I liked and so decided to design and build my own. I first set out the front rail which will run round the edge of the parcel shelf, I wanted something quite chunky for this so to achieve the desired size which I wanted I chose to make it 25mm wide and approximately 36mm deep. I started by setting out the outer shape on a piece of 6mm plywood. Once I was happy with the outer shape and the size as correct I then did the inner curve which gave me the 25mm thickness. To acheive this inner line I first trimmed the outside edge and cleaned it up. I used a jigsaw to cut it and cleaned it up with a block plain and a sanding block. Once I was happy with this I then marked my 25mm round the inner edge to give my 25mm thickness. To achieve this you need to make a little jig which is quite simple and takes about 5 minutes. First cut a small triangle of plywood approximately 75mm on each edge (this isn't important as it's just a template), then put two pins through approximately 2" apart and draw a centre line between the two pins, take the centre of the two pins and draw a line off at 90 degrees on the centre point, measure 25mm from the line and drill a small hole which will enable you to get a pencil edge through. I counter sunk this hole to help push the pencil in further, I then ran this around the outside edge with my two pins and my sharp pencil through the middle which then profiled my inside line. See the photo below...

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I then jigsawed around this line leaving a couple of mm on and then cleaned it up back to the line. This then becomes the template for the front rail. I then pinned this on to a piece of 12mm plywood, drew round the edge with a sharp pencil and removed and then I jigsawwed out the 12mm ply leaving approximately 2mm extra from the line and repeated this 4 times. I then repinned the 6mm ply onto the first piece that I marked and routered the 12mm ply using a profile cutter with a bearing at the top. I then had a mirror image of the 6mm ply but in 12mm thickness. I then pinned this to a plywood board which now gives me my template to make my front rail.

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This is the other 3 pieces that would make up the 36mm thickness. The middle one I did in two piece to save ply. I then glued and pinned them all together.

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I then clamped them on top of the template, changed my router cutter to a profile cutter with a bearing at the bottom (a picture of the cutter mentioned is shown in a previous post). I then sat my router at the top and carefully routered all the way around so I then had a 25mm wide rail by 36mm deep.

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Here you can see where I've been profile cutting... I do a section at a time and then move my clamp to where I've just routered and then I carry on. The next thing I needed to do was put a plough groove around the inside edge which would be approximately 25mm from the top of the rail, to do this I use a 6mm by 12mm biscuit cutter which I fitted to the router and then run around the inside edge to form the plough groove. Once I'd achieved this I then changed the cutter to a post form cutter which puts the round on which I repeated on all 4 outside edges. Once this was achieved I then carefully sandpapered the outside edges and faces till I had the desired finish, any minute games in the core of the ply were two pack filled.

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I then cut the 6mm ply out for the shelves leaving the space inbetween to take the handbrake. These then push into the plough groove. This is as far as I can go without having a trial fit in the bus.

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Once I've got it fitted I will make an upstand back in it so you won't see any of the underneath of the dash. Once it's complete it'll go off to Lee and be trimmed in black. Once it's finished all I've got left is to design the centre console which will go between the two front seats and house my head unit. I've started to get a few ideas in my head as to which direction I want to go with it so this should start coming together soon.

Here are some pictures I mentioned above... It's name is Mr Bojangles, it was downstairs at the Volksworld show, you may have already seen it but for those that haven't here are the pictures.

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Credit to Bob the owner for his wood working skills on making the interior. Lee also made all the carpet and it is hard to believe this is the first time Lee has ever worked on fitting out a camper! Check out the pleats on the seat backs and seats, they all line up!

Here are the pictures of me doors which have been bare metalled.

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Once again I hope you like what you see and any comments or questions please feel free to post them.

Regards

Steve
 
Steve,
Fantastic work (as usual) - this is going to be a great bespoke camper!! 8)

Keep up the great work (and updates), I'm sure everyone is as keen to follow your progress as I am :D

;)
 
Thanks for sharing your work again - wish my wood working skills were like yours!!

That splitty, well the interior work is fantastic and the exterior work also 8)

Looking forward to the next instalment :mrgreen:
 

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