How to remove windows from doors?

[T2-Nate]

Hi,

I tried searching for this, but what's the best way to remove the
windows from the front door?

I assume that it's safe to remove the window surround and scraper and everything without trouble refitting them?

Any pointers are welcome

Cheers!

 

[faux]

This is a very fiddly job and one that I have not mastered yet!

I would love to see a "How to" on this one too.

Good luck!

 

[T2-Nate]

I sort of saw that one coming, I'm buying the surrounds new though - I don't plan on re-using the old ones.

 

[ground hugger]

Hi
just stripped a door today takes about 25 min
wound the window down,undo the bolt holding the bottom of the sliding channel,pull the felt channel out of the top of window,there is two screws holding the top of the sliding channel under felt remove these and slide the channel downwards and remove ,you can then remove the front quarter light. The inner scraper is held in by a wire with bends in it that fit into the door I found it best to put a screwdriver between door and scraper,twisting as you go along pushing the clipped parts out ,The Outer scraper is held in by clips knock these back towards the rear of the door to remove.Take care in removing this as it bends quite easily .Now remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the window to the winder mechanism and pull the window out from above.
I had no door panel fitted to mine and have not yet put it back together

Hope this is of some use to you

 

[T2-Nate]

Thanx groundhugger, I'll try tomorrow and let you know

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

One pointer I will give you is keep the kinked wire that secures the inner scraper rubber.
Schofields don't supply them with the new seals, and the ones that come from just kampers are complete dog shit.

I have the pleasure of dismantling and rebuilding cab doors on a regular basis with my job, so if enough people want an in depth how to I'll write one up?

 

[baybus70]

I have the pleasure of dismantling and rebuilding cab doors on a regular basis with my job, so if enough people want an in depth how to I'll write one up?

Ive also never quite mastered this and always end up either scratchin the paint or bending somethin! A how to would be mucho appretiated!! :wink:

 

[Tofufi]

Saraj wrote this over on JK...

http://shop.justkampers.com/kamperchat/showthread.php?t=108812

 

[T2-Nate]

Well I did one door yesterday, it was all pretty straightforward (the removing-part mind you)
But I destroyed the kinked wire and the aluminum part -which was seriously battered anyway- so will have to replace them.

I had solid 1/4 windows, will be replacing them with spanking new chrome pivoting ones soon. What's the best/cheap(est) place to get these?

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

That's a good guide, however you can't removed fixed quarter lights like that.
You have to undo the 10mm bolt as shown, the screw in the top of the door as shown, and then if you remove the felt channel attached to the pillar on the quarter light there is another small screw. With these removed you can slide the black pillar downwards.
The glass, seal and metal frame will now come out in one piece.
The main piece of glass now comes out, and then the metal pillar.

You can get a special trim removal tool, which makes things a hell of a lot easier.

It's usually worth while soaking all the locks in some degreaser and then spray on some light oil before reinstalling them. If you use a grease they get all gummed up and you'll notice your doors stick and don't pop open when you pull the handle.

 

[Wannabay]

You can get a special trim removal tool, which makes things a hell of a lot easier.

where can you get this from?

I want to change my fixed qtrs to opening qtrs - I have bought and refurbed (new seals and vertical felts + primed) 2nd hand opening qtrs - do I need anything else (scrapers etc) to swap them over?

gerry

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

You can get a special trim removal tool, which makes things a hell of a lot easier.

where can you get this from?

I want to change my fixed qtrs to opening qtrs - I have bought and refurbed (new seals and vertical felts + primed) 2nd hand opening qtrs - do I need anything else (scrapers etc) to swap them over?

gerry

Any decent motor factors. Should have a handle on it like a screwdriver, but on the end it will have a v shaped notch cut into it.

The only seal that is difficult to remove without screwing it up is the outer scraper with the aluminium trim on it, but you shouldn't need to touch it to swap the quarters over.

 

[Air Cooled Rookie]

One pointer I will give you is keep the kinked wire that secures the inner scraper rubber.
Schofields don't supply them with the new seals, and the ones that come from just kampers are complete dog shit.

Completely agree. I've just re-built my cab doors and this piece of advice saved me loads of time. I spent ten minutes trying to fit the scraper with the new wire without managing to clip it into a single hole. Then I re-used the original wire and the scraper was fitted in no time. Thanks Prof!

One other thing I would pass on is the differences between original doors and new Brazilian ones. Firstly, you'll need to fill a hole in the door below the window where the new vans have a push down lock button. Secondly I found that the holes to screw the interior door handle on are in the wrong place and you have to re-drill them.

Niether is a real issue, but worth knowing before you start the job.

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Both of the differences mentioned above are found on late model german doors too. Think the change over year for them is around 75?
The other difference is really late model doors 79ish have a different style of hinge, where the threaded piece is part of the hinge on the door, rather than the threaded holes/brackets being on the van's a pillar.

Don't the new Brazilian doors have that swoopy pressing on the bottom of the outer skin as well?

 

[Air Cooled Rookie]

The door I bought from JK didn't have that pressing, although I know the one you mean.

Another difference I've just discovered is that the sliding air vent at the lower rear corner of the door on the inside takes a bit of messing around with to get to fit. The runners for the blue slider to sit in are not fitted so you have to drill the ones off the old door and pop rivet them onto the new door.