JK steering box
- Thread starter PIEMAN
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martin.sim
Well-known member
I'm looking at getting one too for a 1970 bus so I'd be interested in any feed back too
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
Priscilla1969
Active member
Fitted one to my 69 camper. Big improvement in straight line ability and removed a lot of slack. Interestingly the delivery came from Bajabug I think it was.
Delivered with usual JK speed and efficiency.
Fitted about 6 months ago and still fine.
Small point to note is that it came filled with grease so I took some out and filled with some 90 oil to ensure longevity.
Delivered with usual JK speed and efficiency.
Fitted about 6 months ago and still fine.
Small point to note is that it came filled with grease so I took some out and filled with some 90 oil to ensure longevity.
martin.sim
Well-known member
Cheers
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
K@rlos
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
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- 5,168
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- Location
- Felixstowe, Suffolk
- Year of Your Van(s)
- 1970
- Van Type
- Westfalia pop-top
Filling a steering box with grease is a bit naughty.... :?
Trikky2
Well-known member
K@rlos said:
Agreed.
Trikky2 said:
The "members" on thesanba claim it's better than hypoid. 90, and is commonly done in the States.
Apparently there's a grease suitable on sale over there.
Trikky2
Well-known member
sparkywig said:
The reason they were originally designed to be oil filled is because the way a worm and peg box works, especially under load. There are considerable forces operating on a small contact area. This means that, despite making the working parts from very hard material, over time there is going to be wear.
Lubricated with oil the microscopic particles of metal fall harmlessly to the bottom of the box.
Lubricated with grease the particles stay in the grease and work a bit like scouring powder.
Lubricating with grease is preferable for the manufacturer since it means the unit in question does not have to be made to higher tolerances to ensure it is oil tight. Hence it would be cheaper to make.
Mostly, there are good reasons why things were done in a particular way and it always surprises me when lay mechanics make changes that show they have not really thought things through or asked the question why something was done in a particular way.
I'm not saying vehicles can't be improved, they were built down to a price after all; but for something to be an improvement it has to be better than the original, not worse.
Just because something is on the Samba doesent make it right. It is only an Internet forum.
martin.sim
Well-known member
Very informative, thanks
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
bluenose
Well-known member
350 squid from JK, not cheap are they?
It would be interesting to see what the rework actually is.
It would be interesting to see what the rework actually is.
Trikky2 said:
I know, I was just pointing out why some steering boxes are supplied filled with grease.
Trikky2
Well-known member
sparkywig said:
I know that you know your stuff sparkywig.
I didn't mean my post to seem like it was aimed at you - sorry if it seemed that way mate.
I just wanted to clarify things for the many others who may read this thread.
Priscilla1969
Active member
Had read somewhere that if the box is filled with grease (mine looked like general 'yellow' grease) the moving parts can create a space around it and the important bits end up moving in a grease void, if you see what I mean.
Thought that if it had some oil in this would move and fill any void that would be formed. It is easy to keep an eye on lubrication, I use a syringe with some tubing on the end so it only takes 10 minutes to top up if necessary, so this combo idea works for me.
Thought that if it had some oil in this would move and fill any void that would be formed. It is easy to keep an eye on lubrication, I use a syringe with some tubing on the end so it only takes 10 minutes to top up if necessary, so this combo idea works for me.
Thanks for the replies and info.
Don't think there are any cheap options for a cure to the play in the steering.
Just looking at different options at the moment.
At 350 quid these steering boxes aren't cheap but there are no reviews on JK website. Contacted graham at midland early bay and he may be offering a late bay steering box conversion in the near future. But even he said that RHD boxes ain't cheap.
I have also bought some parts for a Bedford rascal steering rack conversion but there is a bit more work to this than anticipated so not found anyone to take the job on at the moment.
Any more ideas/advice gratefully received
Don't think there are any cheap options for a cure to the play in the steering.
Just looking at different options at the moment.
At 350 quid these steering boxes aren't cheap but there are no reviews on JK website. Contacted graham at midland early bay and he may be offering a late bay steering box conversion in the near future. But even he said that RHD boxes ain't cheap.
I have also bought some parts for a Bedford rascal steering rack conversion but there is a bit more work to this than anticipated so not found anyone to take the job on at the moment.
Any more ideas/advice gratefully received
martin.sim
Well-known member
15% off at JK this weekend so may order mine
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
Why didn't I buy my bus years ago !?
BrotherNumberOne
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It's worth noting that you can now get some of the internals through Heritage via the 'Classic parts' range although you need the part numbers I think. Might now be worth reconning you own box rather than paying someone else £500 to do it.
mattp
Well-known member
I can see steering boxes becoming an issue over the next few years with 're-con' boxes at silly money; I would also like to know what is done to re-condition them as I was not aware of replacement parts availability. I have seen an thread on here about a conversion to a re-pro late LHD box but no RHD ones as yet and how good will they be over time as generally re-pro parts do not seem to have a particularly long service life.
Graham at MIB used to so a rack kit, and CE do one which are both fair chunks of cash, the other alternative is a rascal rack kits as I have and others -a simple conversion.
I sold Mike the bits for his Rascal conversion but this has got me thinking why more people don't do this, it is easy to do but if you are relying on a garage who are unwilling or unable to fabricate parts to fit it then you need either an off the shelf kit or to sent the parts to one of the skilled restorers who can. I'd happily make up a kit based on what was made up for me when I had mine done but I am not a business and don't want the hassle or responsibility of dealing with such a kit. That said if I were able to supply the main bits for the end user to assemble and tweak then that could be ok and maybe a how to on here? I imagine I could get the kit I bought copied for maybe a further £80 (so including the core parts under £200)
Your thoughts guys as the core bits Mike bought worked out at £115 for the UJ, used bevel box and new re-con genuine rack -add sheet steel, a little tube and a rose joint and some nuts and bolts make this surely the best value?
Graham at MIB used to so a rack kit, and CE do one which are both fair chunks of cash, the other alternative is a rascal rack kits as I have and others -a simple conversion.
I sold Mike the bits for his Rascal conversion but this has got me thinking why more people don't do this, it is easy to do but if you are relying on a garage who are unwilling or unable to fabricate parts to fit it then you need either an off the shelf kit or to sent the parts to one of the skilled restorers who can. I'd happily make up a kit based on what was made up for me when I had mine done but I am not a business and don't want the hassle or responsibility of dealing with such a kit. That said if I were able to supply the main bits for the end user to assemble and tweak then that could be ok and maybe a how to on here? I imagine I could get the kit I bought copied for maybe a further £80 (so including the core parts under £200)
Your thoughts guys as the core bits Mike bought worked out at £115 for the UJ, used bevel box and new re-con genuine rack -add sheet steel, a little tube and a rose joint and some nuts and bolts make this surely the best value?
radish
Well-known member
mattp said:
Matt have you got photo's of this fitted? also can you buy a new T25 bevel box? if not in years to come is this going to be the next problem?
I fitted a late box on mine and it works great, i used a second hand box but i know a few people since have used new.
Darius
