Just won't idle - losing the plot - what else can I try?!

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Termite

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Hi,

I've recently got back from France having driven approx 2,000 miles to Marseille and back for the Euros. The van ran absolutely fine while away. Since I've been back though, it's ran absolutley crap and just won't idle.

I did a 50 mile round trip on Saturday and it ticked over very rough and occassionaly cut out. When I got back to the place where I keep my van, one of the guys suggested that he thought it sounded like it was running a bit rich and that the carb needed cleaning out. I took the carb off and removed all the jets, sprayed carb cleaner through it and also an airline. Since adding it back to the van, it just will not idle.

I have tried the following:
[*] Checked the points and changed them when I noticed the current ones were quite heavily pitted. Re-gapped these to 0.40mm
[*] Tried a spare coil I had lying around
[*] Changed the condensor
[*] Tried an older ditributor cap I had
[*] Checked one of the spark plugs to see if it has been running rich. The plug was a nice grey colour and looked fine.
[*] When I did have it running for around 20 seconds with the choke on full, I pulled each lead from each plug and the engine tone changed, so I think the leads are fine.

I feel like I have wasted the entire weeked chasing my tail trying to fix this, but I am no closer to getting it running nicer than I was when I first took the carb off!

I'm losing the plot reading up on so many things related to idling, what else can I try before I bite the bullet and try and get someone to take a look at it?
 
While I don't think this is connected, but a bit of background since I got back... While in France there was an issue with the starter motor one time where the oslenoid would not click, so I put a screwdriver across the terminals and that seemed to solve it. I noticed the connections were a bit rusty, so had them off last weekend to clean them up... the rear of the solenoid shattered when I put a spanner to it and I had to change the starter motor out and change the solenoid.

The van has no issues starting or driving while you are keeping the revs high, it's just idling it appears to be totally unable to do apart from a short spell with the choke on full.
 
I've also tried squirting carb cleaner around the base of the carb, throttle spindle and the manifold boot area to see if the engine tone changed while ari was getting drawn in there. No change in engine tone was noticed.

I think that's everything I've tried now. Hopefully someone has a suggestion. Thanks in advance. :)
 
You dont say what carb you're running, but with a 34 pict 3 there are a few very small and discreet jets. the one on mine that blocks easily is behind brass plug on RHS of carb as you look at if from back of the van, just below and to the right of the choke.

post 3 of this might help

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=ee34b32250b45f2a2df8e40faf595c5e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Did you disturb the settings of the air bypass (larger) and idle mixture (smaller) screws and/or the throttle stop screw? If yes, then did you re set them using the correct method?

If you did not disturb these settings then remove the external idle jet out the right side of the carb. The drilling in the nose is very small but held up to the light at a suitable angle you should be able to see light through the drilling.
 
I made sure I didn't touch the bypass screws. Maybe that is the problem and some crap from the carb cleaner and air blasting it has accumulated it there.

Should get my rebuild kits from GSF tomorrow and will strip it down again.

Can't believe I didn't mention the carb type! It is the Solex 34 PICT 3.
 
Been reading this thread...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The general gist of it is that you need to back the idle jet out a touch. When I stripped the carb down, the idel jet had a load of gunk in the threads, which leads me to believe that somoene had maybeback it out a touch previously. Me cleaning it and then putting it back in might have put it back too far.

I'm going to try backing it out a touch tomorrow and see if that does help. Anyone else had/done the same "fix"?
 
I had a problem with mine not idling with a crappy bocar, changed it for a genuine solex which I rebuilt completely, that solved the problem but soon after it stopped idling again.

I removed the carb and stripped again but this time soaked it in acetone, considering I had previously cleaned it I couldn't believe the amount of crap the acetone removed.

Another rebuild kit and it was idling again, I don't think it takes much to block the idle circuit on these, I squirted loads of cleaner through mine and used an air line the first time aswell.
 
Have finally got it idling by putting a 0.60 jet in (it had a .55 in it) and opening it a touch .

However I now appear to have a knocking noise which I have just filmed https://youtu.be/teWb19xkp3E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm going to start a new thread regarding the knocking but I'm at a loss as to how I've driven 2,400 miles and now the engines appears to have turned to Sh*t.
 
Have you tried replacing the idle cut off valve? I had this trouble and it drove me mad for ages. Quick swap and it was sorted. Just a thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It gets more and more ridiculous. I've stripped and rebuilt a totally different Solex 34 PICT 3 carb and fitted that and it won't idle .

I've just statically timed it and it won't idle.

It'll run with the choke on until the last but one step until coming off and will then die .

I've run out of things to try short of buying a new engine and currently feel like throwing a spanner through this one. :evil: :x
 
I'm based in South Croydon.

Finally got it to idle (well at least run without me needing to hold the throttle open), but still runs lumpy. Someone (not a mechnaic, but owned a bus years ago) up at the workshop where I store the van said he thinks it's running rich and the engine sounds choked, but I think it sounds a bit like a misfire.

The compression tests I did today weren't very good either (see the other thread about the knocking noise http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=71820" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
 
Forgot to also metion that if I revved the engine, the revs would stay high afterwards for a while, say around 1400 rpm based on the rev counter I attached and would only drop if I played with the little or large screws on the carb
 
Well I tried new plugs tonight and it won't run. It running yesterday was a fluke.

Whipped the carb off again for a look. It had a 140 jet in it, so swapped it for a 125 (as was in the first carb). Still no lukc.

I am absolutely all out of ideas and just don't get why it won't run (even lumpy/crap) when it gets off of choke. It's impossible to even try and tweak the carb if it's not running at all.

At a total loss with it. Now torn between pulling the engine out to see what the issue with the low compression on cylinder 3 is or just buying a new engine and be done with it. Given up on getting it out on a couple more trips this summer now and thoroughly p*ssed off with it :(
 
There may be something to be said for getting a turnkey engine that you can install to keep you ging for the rest of the summer, then you can investigate your existing engine at relative leisure...
 

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