My 69 Westfalia - Oxyboxer engine

[kleinbusRonnie]

Hello
Nice to see a serious WBX engine built in a early westy, it is also used here in Denmark (mostly in type1).

Question:
I have just bought a modified CU type4 engine for my 68' westy.

It is already converted to upright cooling, trimmed to 110 hp with twin 45 dellortos and has a 228mm flywheel.

I will mate it with a 6 rib gearbox from a 77 latebay, so the flywheel should fit.

You wrote about using a starter from a TDI powered 4 cylinder car.
Did you end up doing this? (with spacer) and do you have any suggestions which starter i should chase?

(i will update my old thread, when i'm doing the swap.)

Regards
Ronnie
Copenhagen

 

[tmatre]

Hello
Nice to see a serious WBX engine built in a early westy, it is also used here in Denmark (mostly in type1).

Question:
I have just bought a modified CU type4 engine for my 68' westy.

It is already converted to upright cooling, trimmed to 110 hp with twin 45 dellortos and has a 228mm flywheel.

I will mate it with a 6 rib gearbox from a 77 latebay, so the flywheel should fit.

You wrote about using a starter from a TDI powered 4 cylinder car.
Did you end up doing this? (with spacer) and do you have any suggestions which starter i should chase?

(i will update my old thread, when i'm doing the swap.)

Regards
Ronnie
Copenhagen

I ordered the wront part
I should have ordered the spacer for Automatic, but ordered for the standard T-3 bus gearbox. This adapter is about half he thickness I think.
I have ordered a new spacer, as I already got the TDI starter (SR0408X/409X TDI starter )
The Auto version of the adapter/spacer will fit, as I use a T-3 automatic starter in a startup stand now...

 

[kleinbusRonnie]

Thanks!

I will try to search a bit more on that Bosch no.
But that Bosch no seems not to be used in Denmark ?

Could it be this starter?
http://hovwdiaudi.dk/_ul/xProductCatalogue/productDetails.aspx?id=1190300600&Group=13739" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So did you have you bus on the test bench? You know to see its output, torque etc.
And did you ride all summer with a 3 rib gearbox and big engine..must have missed the 5th gear

Guess, your winter project will be disk brakes?
I used the late bay setup on a set of Wagenswest spindles, seems to work ok. But if I can find somehow to get vacuum from the new engine setup(the twin dell's 45) i will add a servo for the brake. (bremsekraft forstærker in Danish)
The engine will arrive this week in my driveway..

cheers
Ronnie.

 

[tmatre]

Thanks!

I will try to search a bit more on that Bosch no.
But that Bosch no seems not to be used in Denmark ?

Could it be this starter?
http://hovwdiaudi.dk/_ul/xProductCatalogue/productDetails.aspx?id=1190300600&Group=13739" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So did you have you bus on the test bench? You know to see its output, torque etc.
And did you ride all summer with a 3 rib gearbox and big engine..must have missed the 5th gear

Guess, your winter project will be disk brakes?
I used the late bay setup on a set of Wagenswest spindles, seems to work ok. But if I can find somehow to get vacuum from the new engine setup(the twin dell's 45) i will add a servo for the brake. (bremsekraft forstærker in Danish)
The engine will arrive this week in my driveway..

cheers
Ronnie.

My starter is from a Caddy II 96-03 and the Bosch number is 0001125042
(I did not check my starter, but this is what is written in a mail from the seller)

I used my 1600DP engine this summer, the Oxy is not completed yet
I'm sand blasting all the engine tin now. All parts are disassembled and being cleaned after mock-up. Hopefully I will have the long block assembled again next weekend.

I got the late bay spindles and disk's but they need some cleaning and new bearings.
In the rear I will use T-3 drum brakes as they got auto adjustments
I have not decided if I am going to install brake servo or not.

I may also re drill the rear hubs to 5*130.. anyone know if a 7" cutter will fit re drilled rear drums and if 6" cutter will fit late bay spindle/disk with adapters in front? There will bot be any extreme drop on my car, just weld in adjuster for a moderate drop/adjustment.

 

[kleinbusRonnie]

Thanks for your reply!

With that Bosch no it is easy to find the starter here in DK, it seems to fit a lot of the VAG concerns cars..like Skoda, Seat etc.

But quite expensive...1800 dkk + core fee 1000 dkk. For a reconditioned one.
Will try to find a used one.

R.

 

[tmatre]

Finally! - Shotblock

I removed the valves from the 044 heads, and there was some port work needed under the valve seats on these heads
I also un-shrouded the valves.
The ports matched ok, just some cleanup there

WBX oil filler block off with oil temp sensor

 

[mattp]

Excellent thread and great to see you are using an oxyboxer. I also have a 1914 oxyboxer (94 B+P's and 69mm crank) that I need to build and install. Most parts similar to yours but I have a T1 oil cooler and a sandwich plate between the oil filler and case for oil feed. Will also be using a Type IV 200mm flywheel.

Need to get this installed as already have the 2.1 motor and new rods, 94B+P's waiting in the garage

Will look forward to seeing your engine in your bus :mrgreen:

 

[tmatre]

Starters, from left:
T2 automatic starter
Caddy TDI starter with adapter to fit T3/T25 with autom gearbox, it wil also fit T1 og T4
12V T1 starter

I bought the TDI starter used, and I think i paid about NOK 400

 

[tmatre]

I got a few hours in the garage yesterday to bleed the lifters and then finally assemble the long block

 

[kleinbusRonnie]

Many thanks for your starter line up

Tomorrow i'm going to collect my CU engine in Sweden, and will go to returbilen, (DIY cheap junkyard), they actually have a Volkswagen Caddy 1,9 TDI -1999, so guess i'll grab the starter from that. Any starter at that place costs 250.- SEK

Biltema, also selling a starter, that might fit: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Elsystem/Startmotor/STARTMOTOR-63636/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Your engine is really coming along nicely!

It's nice to see something different from type1 based engines.

R.

 

[gninnam]

8)

 

[tmatre]

T1 alu pushrods cut to correct size. The WBX pushrods are steel but was to short.
I may change these later

The nut for the engine tin behind the manifold heater pipe have been removed, the hole welded then filled with led.
I used normal filler on my first engine, never again.....

 

[tmatre]

Fuel Injectors from a GM 2.0 16V, the O ring and plastic tip has been removed
These are a few mm longer than the Mexico injectors, I cut the o-ring/gasket in the end castings about 2mm then bore the hole in the fuel rails about 1.5mm larger. I could have machined some material in the bottom of the injector bosses also, but I prefer to keep these to be able to do some porting inside the end castings.

End castings match ported. I have also done some porting around the injector boss.
The design of the end castings is not god for high flow, If I order today I would order the CB high flow end castings.

 

[dubs and classics]

Excellent engine build tmatre, nice to see something differant being done 8)

Can I ask where you sourced the mexi throttle body and manifold from? Thinking of using them on my FI type 4 build.

 

[tmatre]

Excellent engine build tmatre, nice to see something differant being done 8)

Can I ask where you sourced the mexi throttle body and manifold from? Thinking of using them on my FI type 4 build.

Hi

I bought the Mexico stuff from Antonio Trejo on TheSamba
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=519841" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are for Type 1 engine, and the design of the end castings are not god for high flow.
If you are building an upright T4 I think you have to use ITB's or make your own custom manifolds.
There are a few examples of this posted on the Shoptalkforums

 

[tmatre]

The Mexico throttle body got a strange shape inside. There are almost no air passing the first 1/5 of of the throttle movement. I think the original Mexico EFI may add air via the idle valve when movement is registered by the TPS?

I ported/removed these "levels" inside the body, I did not remove the throttle plate, as I was afraid of damaging the smooth area where the throttle plate is closed.

 

[dubs and classics]

Excellent engine build tmatre, nice to see something differant being done 8)

Can I ask where you sourced the mexi throttle body and manifold from? Thinking of using them on my FI type 4 build.

Hi

I bought the Mexico stuff from Antonio Trejo on TheSamba
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=519841" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are for Type 1 engine, and the design of the end castings are not god for high flow.
If you are building an upright T4 I think you have to use ITB's or make your own custom manifolds.
There are a few examples of this posted on the Shoptalkforums

Cheers, I will have a butchers on the shoptalk forums and see what they are up to.. I am going the upright type 4 route..

I dont mind admitting my fuel injection knowledge is basic at best , so my plan may be complete bollox... :lol:

I have all the original FI stuff that was on the 412 engine so was thinking of modifying the type 4 manifold ends to come round the front of the fan housing. I am trying to make it look as much like a stock type 1 as possible so thought the centre manifold section you are using might fit the bill...maybe with the 412 throttle body mated to it rather than the mexi one...seems like a neater solution than making up some runners and modifying the original plenum chamber...maybe..

Anyhow, I will stop talking bollox and let you get on with your thread...looking forward to see how it works out chap. 8)

 

[Geeze]

hei, some amazing work going on there, good to see you're putting the winter to good use!
not managed to catch up on your thread in ages and so lots seems to have happened 8)

 

[tmatre]

I have not done to much to the car or engine this winter, to much time at work, but the last week have been god
Just ordered a new muffer from vintaespeed. Superflow for T2A, custom made for my 15mm wider engine.
No additional cost says Lee, but 4-5 weeks build time.. I can wait

http://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/in...ategory_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=80

 

[tmatre]

I pressure tested the oil cooler, but the seals between the oil cooler and the adapter was leaking.
I do not have access to a milling machine, so I simply used an old fitting to mount the adapter in the lathe then removed about 1.5mm.
Now there is enough pressure on the seals.