My oil looks like glitter

[Termite]

Hi,

These pictures are in my post about idling, but I think it'll get missed. I've done no more than 50 miles since the last oil change fter finally getting the engine to idle enough that it won't cut out when driving. The engine pulls fine at speed, no loss of power. But did an oil change yesterday and this is the result...





Doesn't look good does it? What's the gold colour likely to be from? Bearings? Valve seats?

Time to give up on getting the engine to idle properly and pull it to find what's going on?

 

[Termite]

And appears to have a lot of end float
https://youtu.be/xPvo5vZo_AU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Termite]

Slightly better one from as close to the middle of the crank rather than the top .
https://youtu.be/vslY7jtrM_k" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Looks to be approx 0.34mm

 

[K@rlos]

Bearings are shot i reckon mate

 

[K@rlos]

Bearings are shot i reckon mate

 

[subheatadey]

The yellow is the phosphor bronze bearings, which isn't good

 

[megaaircooledvw]

The yellow is from your dizzy drive gear ,where the end float is wearing it away.

 

[megaaircooledvw]

Thats the crankshaft gear,bronze.

 

[Termite]

OK so it's knackered then.

I have two engines of unknown condition with most of the ancillaries stripped off of them in my mind garage. My dad would've taken them out of beetles or another van we had in the mid 90s. How can I check which if the two is the better one to start playing around with? Measure end float? Leak down compression test?

Should I try to rebuild one of these, use them as an exchange unit for a recon engine or just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

 

[Termite]

So I checked out the two engines tonight. One is a n AD code and has and X stamped at the end. The original engine number has been cut out and it's been restamped with the number .There is also a little VW logo on it with a circle turning into an arrow around it. Am I right in thinking that the case might have been recycled/reconditioned by VW at somepoint?

The other engine code is an AB one.

Both engines are twin port, the AB one has a manifold attached with double heater risers coming from it.

How can I tell what engine size they are? Is there an easy way to tell without measuring the pistons? Can I tell from the cylinder heads etc...?

 

[megaaircooledvw]

First one sounds like a vega,not good as they machine the shit out of them,odd size b and p whats the endfloat like on the AB.

 

[Termite]

They would of come out of a van or beetle in the mid 90's, so I don't know if Vege had a better reputation back then?

Couldn't measure the end float as they're right at the back of the garage and I need to clear a few things from off and around them to drag them out.

This is the engine number with VW recycle logo

 

[Trikky2]

Yes the first one is stamped as having been reconditioned by VW. I have seen these before and never had any issues. The thing you need to know is how much wear there has been since the recon work - same as with an original engine.

Checking the end float and a compression test should give a clue, though if the engines have been laying around for some time you may get poor compression readings due to mild corrosion, which may clear up when the engine is run for a bit.

 

[Termite]

Thanks Trikky2, worth knowing the bit about poor readings and slight corrosion.

I'm going to have to run them up to measure compression aren't I, or is it worth buying a cheap leakdown compression tester so I don't need to turn them over to measure compression in the cylinder?

 

[Trikky2]

Well the corrosion could be on the valves and seats which would give poor readings. You have a choice. Run it up and then test, strip it - or risk it.

 

[1961bluebug]

I think that the engine is a candidate for a repair, but shot distributor drive gear is a good time to upgrade to distributorless ignition (EDIS). Always find some good in whatewer bad happen! :msn4: