Paint advice needed PDQ

[bmc0mart]

Hi all, having sold a Viking Bay a few months back, I got lonely and depressed so now I have gone and bought 2 bays!! OMG what have I done??
Thing is, one of them was painted (badly) in Smoothrite and my plan is to attack it with the DA sander and then prep it for a nice new coat of 2K. I think I should put a coat of Barcoat on before priming for the 2 pack but would like to know if anyone has experience of such a solution before I start.
So - should barcoat be sufficient to isolate the hammerite before painting with 2 pack??
All suggestions gratefully considered.
Mart

 

[360andi]

Mart.
In my experience only use Barcoat as a last resort! I would recommend that if possible you remove all the smoothrite with your DA. Then 2K primer and then 2K topcoat.
If you cannot remove all the Smoothrite and have to resort to Barcoat make sure you don't sand it before application of your topcoat and prime it first as Barcoat is only an isolator/barrier coat between two incompatible paints, not a primer.

Hope that helps and good luck. Post up some pics of the results when your done.

 

[pete nice]

Yea, what he said, Barcoat is a nightmare to use. Get as much of the old paintoff as possible, I would bare metal as much as I could. You could use a good coat of DP40 before you start, But try etch primer & high build, it should be ok.

 

[bmc0mart]

Thanks guys - I will let you know how I get on.
Mart

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

:? barcoat is a piece of piss to use, and it is a primer as well as an isolator. You treat it like a wet on wet rather than a high build.

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

On my engine bay, spraying over hammerite..

 

[pete nice]

The problem with bar coat is that you can't rub it down.

Using it wet on wet does make more sense, I never thought of doing that...

 

[360andi]

Yes you're dead right. It is a piece of piss to use. But it is only an isolator.
It has little in the way of adhesive or build properties so it is best to use a primer (which has good adhesive and build properties) over it.
Wet on wet painting relys on the cross-linking of compatable primers and top coats.
Barcoat (alcohol based solvent) is deliberately made to be incompatable so that your new paint (Cellulose or 2K solvent) doesn't cause a reaction with your old paint underneath.

I'm only giving this advise because I'd hate to see someone spend hours, days or weeks of prep only to have barcoat cause poor adhesion because it wasn't primed. I've witnessed a few occations where people have painted one colour then masked off and applied a second colour, only to have the first colour lift and peel away from the barcoat when the masking was removed.

 

[bmc0mart]

Oh, well, the work has started (albeit a bit slowly today). I went to Machine mart and got a pack of 25 assorted SC discs for my polisher with hook and loop backing pad.
I attacked the thick, hard Smoothrite and got through to steel in quite a few places. I found as I went along that the van had been painted a number of times and so as I broke through the layers, she became very psychadelic!!!
:shock: I took some pics but haven't a clue how to get them on here yet...[/img]

 

[bmc0mart]

OK - as I cannot add my pics, I have put them in a photobox album here: http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/7744457

Happy viewing - I will keep adding pics as I go along

martin