Rewiring dash clock

[Dci_Carter]

Hi all,

I'm in the middle of a long restoration of a 71' transporter and currently working on the dash. I'm looking to install an original 71 analogue clock. I have wired it in and runs when the ignition is on and continues for 10 mins or so, does it 'wind' up and run for a longer period until you next charge the winder? Or should the clock have a continuous live feed? I would have thought not as this would drain the battery

Cheers

Barry

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[ozziedog]

I’m no expert by any stretch of the imagination, however if there were a wind up mechanism that’s wound when in motion or when live, it would still only last another day or so . And yes I’m pretty sure these can cause battery drain but over a significant period as these vans were designed to be commercials so in real terms used daily , this camper malarkey is an afterthought to their original purpose. So I’d say they’re permanently fed and yes there’ll be battery drain. Is there some way of measuring how much it uses in order to forecast what it would take to flatten the battery? If it’s a bigso issue then a hidden under the dash switch to cut the power when parked over long periods like a winter lay up etc. I think that modern stuff as in lights and clocks and things probably use a lot less power than back in the seventies where it was a bit more primitive.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,just thoughts :mrgreen:

 

[67panel]

yes it should have permanent live, if I remember correct it comes from interior light feed .

 

[Moseley]

The original clock in my 68 is permanently live - off the top of my head I can’t remember where it is fed from.

The mechanism works by some sort of electro magnet (don’t quote me on this!) - this fires a spring-loaded mechanism away from it, and then over the course of the next few minutes, as the spring returns to an unstretched state, this is what is powering the clock. Once the contacts are made, the ‘electro-magnet’ fires again and the process starts all over. I would imagine the current drain is absolutely minimal as it is a very small mechanism. If the mechanism were to stick or become tight, there is a low temperature solder joint which should pop and prevent damage to the clock / high current draw.

 

[Dci_Carter]

Thanks everyone appreciate it, looks like the live I have is fed when the ignition is on so ill have to try trace the one showing on the diagram back to the lights

Cheers

Barry

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