Rust removal

[Nick-Rackham]

Getting a little pissed off! I've been cleaning up chassis etc with flapper disc on heavily rusted bits down to shiny stuff, and wire wheel etc. Getting most of the rust off but not all where it's slightly pitted. I've been treating it with Metal Ready and it seemed to have been OK, followed the instructions etc. But now it seems that it's still rusting through! Getting rust coming back through where it is pitted. I had etch primed it once it was treated but now the etch is lifting in places! so it's obviously not taken!! HELP :shock:

So what's the best stuff to use and any tips or tricks on keeping it at bay long enough to get it prepped and primed etc?

Cheers

Nick

 

[moler]

On the split I used a combination of clean & strip discs and wire cups for the most part, chisels and wire brushes in the hard to reach spots. This was then treated with good old Kurust and over painted with same redoxide primer aerosols that the whole of my van was painted in. The only rust that ever came through was in areas where I hadn't put enough paint on in the first place.

 

[lynn71]

you need to find some ospho my friend all you need to do is brush this stuff on leave it to dry over night an youll come back and the rust will be black just spray redoxide on it or brush on which ever tickles your fancy then paint it what ever colour you want im in the states right now so i know i can get this ospho stuff i swear by it ive even heard of people using it on rusted cars from hurricane katrina that hit here a few years back

and as a matter of fact im using the stuff right now im done for the day wait on ospho to dry thn ill be doin some cuttin an welding on my floor tomorrow then the rest

P.S ospho works great on clean metal too!!

also i dont know where to get it from in the UK but im sure you can order some off the net id say a gallon will do 15 bus undersides!!

 

[nora]

I don't think metal ready gets rid of rust, it is used to prepare clean shiny metal for the top coats of POR15. I've used both POR15 and Rust bullet and have found the rust bullet to be better.

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Cheers Guys, looks like I got the wrong end of the stick with Metal Ready! On a lot of the chassis it turned the rust to a white powder, cleaned it up and no rust, run a wire bush over it and no brownish rust colour! Oh well, back to the drawing board! looks like I'll be spending what's left of the weekend re stripping what I've done!

Looks like I'll be buying a bucket of Kurust!

EDIT:- I'm guessing that where the metal ready has worked and the etch primer is not coming off that it will be OK to leave it?

 

[Trikky2]

Red oxide is ok but personally I prefer the heavier and more expensive zinc primers for chassis and underside. Used this on my 38 Citroen and 20 years later still no rust.

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Cheers Trikky, which product do you recommend?

EDIT:- I like U-POL stuff would U-POL 182 straight onto the Kurust be OK? then Red Oxide, then stonechip?

 

[Trikky2]

As far as I can see U-pol is a so called weld through primer (which I dont rate) and halfords sell it in a spray can. No I would not use this.

What I used was a heavy zinc primer. It goes on thick with a brush - too heavy to spray with a normal gun. The tins of paint a weigh a lot due to the high metal content. Its often used in industrial and marine applications. Your local car/truck paint supplier will be able to help you.

 

[terrier man]

Yep Zinc primer the one unless you got any Red-Lead, the stuff they used to paint the Forth Rail Bridge with they don't use it anymore health & safety whats wrong with Lead never hurt me, :lol:
They used to prime alot of classic cars with Zinc in the 80's but you quiet often got a ripple effect more noticed on strong dark colours but this wont matter on the underside & wil seal any moderate rust if done well for good.

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Trikky, they got Weld Thru and Zinc 182 both different, looks like the 182 may be the stuff to use, it's brush on and sold as a zinc primer? This stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZINC-182-ANTI-RUST-REMEDY-PRIMER-PAINT-250ml-FREE-P-P-/160358902106?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item255622a95a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I got Red Oxide to spray over the top? This is doing my crust in! :evil: ****** RUST!!!!

 

[terrier man]

That should do, if I recall used to use it around rusted areas to be filled ect; I don't think its as thick as the stuff Trikky means so might need a couple of coats then even with the Industrial stuff I would get as much on as possible.
Hope this helps your goin the right way I think.

 

[Pickles]

I have used the bilthamber rust converter and also their Zinc based primer they say is mainly for marine applications so should be ok for your bus. Extreme duty vehicle chassis work is the other stated use!!

http://www.bilthamber.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did find that the primer needs thinning so if you do buy from them probably best to get some of that as well.

I have also bought their box chassis waxoil stuff so as to do that myself in the coming weeks and have also used it already in the bottom of my doors and rear hatch.

Everything either comes in aerosol or a tin so choice of application methods

Baz

 

[user 422]

I've been using Rust Bullet for a while now, wire brush any loose rust off and paint it on with a brush, I normally give two coats and leave it at that, had fantastic results so far!

I've used it on my beam, all the spindles and track rods etc, and I'll be using it on all of the chassis bits that aren't being replaced, and then overpainting with stonechip and colour too.

http://www.rustbulletuk.com/

Matty

 

[Trikky2]

Trikky, they got Weld Thru and Zinc 182 both different, looks like the 182 may be the stuff to use, it's brush on and sold as a zinc primer? This stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZINC-182-ANTI-RUST-REMEDY-PRIMER-PAINT-250ml-FREE-P-P-/160358902106?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item255622a95a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I got Red Oxide to spray over the top? This is doing my crust in! :evil: ****** RUST!!!!

If you remove the scale rust (it chips off) and loose rust, then treating with a proprietary rust converter (normally acid based) will be sufficient. Follow the instructions then when its dry apply the zinc primer. The good stuff will not need another paint on top other than for finishing effect since, unlike normal primer, this stuff is not porous. You can apply a non setting underseal like blackwax or similar directly onto the industrial/marine zinc primer which will protect it from chips.

You cannot mistake the good quality stuff, it literally weighs 2 to 3 times as much as the same sized pot of ordinary paint and it needs a lot of stirring before its ready for use.

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Thanks Guys

 

[moler]

Trikky2 - I like the idea of the zinc rich coatings, how would you prep clean shiny metal before covering with the zinc?

 

[Nick-Rackham]

I'm still struggling to find the really heavy stuff! loads of "zinc rich primer" about, but looking for the stuff Trikky mentions! Depending on what product I guess depends on the prep??!! I'm assuming that any rust converter / prep product will be OK (apart from Metal Ready!) hmmm.... so maybe "any rust converter / prep product" won't do. They all seem to be bespoke in their application and won't warranty if the whole process and product set isn't used!

 

[Trikky2]

I used Jenolite and similar products like Trustan (in France its called Julian :lol: ) - they are all basically phosphoric acid and some leave a grey finish - others a dark blue one. Just follow the instructions, let it dry, use in warm conditions, wash off excess unreacted acid before painting etc. Its not difficult.

Clean shiney metal - roughen it with some 600 ish grade wet and dry - used dry - to get a key. Wipe down with panel cleaner to remove grease.

I found the heavy zinc paint at the local car paint supplier (local to me at the time in MK) They supplied all the local paintshops - I found them in yellow pages under car paint suppliers. The heavy zinc stuff they had was used for truck chassis. I have also seen it at boat chandlers though they tend to charge more for it - like everything to do with boats.

Its thick and has to be brush applied and hence is no good for shiny bodywork - I would not want to try spraying over it :lol: but great for underneath and on floors etc.

Hope this helps.

 

[Pickles]

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Prevention&name=electrox

Electrox is what I've been using

 

[Matt84]

Hi,

I painted my floor with a product called Jenoseel Plus, this must be similar to what Trikky is talking about, comes in a 5 litre tin and is ridiculously heavy for it's size, and it's really thick too. It's a red oxide primer but I believe it's non-porous, it also has a built in rust stabiliser which is handy!

I work for the electrcity board and we paint our pylons and transformers with the stuff before giving a top coat of silver, when was the ast time you saw a pylon scrapped??