Small amount of restoration...

[fallingoffalot]

Ok thanks guys, I ordered some clear polyethylene and some 3mm butyl beading tape, I'll post some more pics of the job when I start. Gives me a few days to clean all the oversprayed adhesive on the door.

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[fallingoffalot]

Warmed up and rolled, no real way of knowing if there was any air in there.

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[fallingoffalot]

Mike, thanks for the pointer to your thread, that is exactly what I need to do. It looks like you have different clips to hold the door card. I hate the metal one (unfortunately I've bought loads of new ones). Did you find an alternative?

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[fallingoffalot]

Most of the old glue off and cavity-waxed.

Paintbrush and cellulose thinner was the best way to get the old hard glue off. Just got to do it for long enough and it all disappears.

Drenched in the stuff, just need it to dry a bit before I put the polythene membrane on.

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[mike202]

Nice work. Doors should last well [emoji106]


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[fallingoffalot]

I was about to cut a piece of PVC the size of the door, then thought that if the whole thing is stuck to the door then there are plenty of places to trap water where it seals at the bottom. So I think I'll just leave it with the 3 big holes covered but draining inside the door. No opportunity for water to be trapped. I'll do a test with a hose to check.

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[mike202]

Just seen your question about the clips. No, I used the metal clips pushed into the rubber bungs which I fitted after the final piece of plastic vapour barrier was stuck to the door inner panel. I find they fit well although you have to carefully push them into the bungs as the clips tend to move about a bit before fitting. Don’t be tempted to just bash them in with your fist without checking they are in the right place. It’s worth buying some new bungs if yours are cracking or split.
The flaps in the holes of the door are to stop drops of water splashing and to keep water inside the door where it will hopefully drain away through the two holes at the bottom of the door. The final piece covering the whole panel is to stop water vapour ie damp, getting into the door card which will the eventually cause mould and rot, even if you treat the door card to some coats of varnish.
Hope this helps [emoji3]


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[sparkywig]

Just seen your question about the clips. No, I used the metal clips pushed into the rubber bungs which I fitted after the final piece of plastic vapour barrier was stuck to the door inner panel. I find they fit well although you have to carefully push them into the bungs as the clips tend to move about a bit before fitting. Don’t be tempted to just bash them in with your fist without checking they are in the right place. It’s worth buying some new bungs if yours are cracking or split.
The flaps in the holes of the door are to stop drops of water splashing and to keep water inside the door where it will hopefully drain away through the two holes at the bottom of the door. The final piece covering the whole panel is to stop water vapour ie damp, getting into the door card which will the eventually cause mould and rot, even if you treat the door card to some coats of varnish.
Hope this helps [emoji3]


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This

 

[fallingoffalot]

Ok thanks again for the info. The door cards I'm replacing are rotten at the bottom and almost disintegrated when I pulled the clips out. They look like the original ones though, so 52 years old! The clips in mine only go into the metal, there's no plastic bung or anything.

Here's the new one held in place, I had to re-shape it a bit to get it to fit properly.

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[sparkywig]

From that pic it looks like the holes in the panel don't match the bung holes in the door.

 

[fallingoffalot]

I've recovered all the other panels, an the holes never line up, the clips are offset, so like that by design - as you can see in the 1st pic. You must have different panels/clips.

Gluing the cover in, the hot glue is much better than the spray adhesive I used on the other panels.

Here it is finished and clipped in, quite a good fit.

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[mike202]

Looks great [emoji106]

Why do they bother making holes in the door card if they don’t line up ?! [emoji23]


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[fallingoffalot]

Finished them both, once the door card is adjusted to size it takes about 2 hrs to put the clips on, line it up, cover it and bash it back on.

The holes aren't meant to line up, in fact if they did those clips wouldn't work, there is quite a bit of adjustment available. It works quite well as long as you line them up before you cover it the make sure it all still lines up before you try and thump them back in.

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[mike202]

[emoji108][emoji41]


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[gninnam]

[emoji108][emoji41]

+1

 

[fallingoffalot]

Need a new bracket, so I printed one...

This is to hold the propex inlet hose in a different position so it doesn't snuff out over 30mph.

Does anyone have any experience of doing this and advice on where to position the hoses.

This is Tinkercad, really easy to use.

On the print bed.

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[fallingoffalot]

Repositioned the hose, the PO has put the propex above this so can't drill into it. Used one of the existing fasteners.

Both inlet and outlet pointing backwards in approximately the same place. Apparently they need to have about the same pressure at each end so it's balenced, previously the inlet was much further down the chassis.

This is the only way I could get the jack under it. I could only just get it high enough to put the stands under on the min setting. I'll get it raised a bit when lockdown is over.

 

[gninnam]

Interesting about the inlet/outlet pipes.
I assume they are lined up so the outlet doesn't send its gasses into the inlet?

 

[sparkywig]

I've got mine so the inlet is on the sliding door side and the exhaust is directed out the opposite side so it doesn't fill an awning with carbon monoxide.

 

[fallingoffalot]

Good point about the outlet not being on the awning side, but I think I'd have to move the propex to get the hose to the other side. Then may be back to square one again regarding it blowing out. Does yours blow out when your moving?

The inlet is about 10cm in front of the outlet.