Small amount of restoration...

[fallingoffalot]

Ok cheers (I could be wrong, but yours looks like a late bay bellypan?)

I think I'll just carve a bit out to fit, it'll protect the front bits.
Having said that I've been driving about without one for about a year!

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[fallingoffalot]

Got bored and fitted my roof rack.
Hot glued some bike inner tube on the bits of the clamp that touch. Got about 1" clearance through the door!

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[67westy]

Bellypan fitting....
The bellypan doesn't quite fit and it's in the way of the steering arm...
I suspect it's a LHD one, I guess I could butcher it with the angle grinder.

The picture is the top view and it looks like the cutout on the right is to accommodate the steering arm (for LHD), is this correct?

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Just dug my LHD one out and the cut outs are the same although I've never gotten around to fitting it!

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[fallingoffalot]

Thanks, good to know, looks like I'll either chop some out or not bother and put it on eBay in 4 years time.

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[mike202]

Ok cheers (I could be wrong, but yours looks like a late bay bellypan?)

I think I'll just carve a bit out to fit, it'll protect the front bits.
Having said that I've been driving about without one for about a year!

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This is an interesting Samba thread for ID of pedal belly pans, splash pans or what have you. I don’t know what difference RHD vs LHD makes though.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=597785&start=0

Yours looks like a ‘69 with 10 screws and cut outs in rear edge.

Mine looks like the ones described as ‘71 MY. 8 screws.

1968 is one year only type with two screws in the rear edge centre.

It sounds as though 69-72 may all fit although some screw holes may be mis-aligned, but the’68 pan is only for a ‘68 bus.

I think it’s a good idea to fit a pedal pan as it stops draughts coming up through the holes in the floor, as well as protecting from rain stone chips etc.

 

[67westy]

Some nice info there Mike, I hadn't realised the 68 one was different (everything is one year only ) Looks like I might have to keep my eyes open for another one at some point

 

[67westy]

Some nice info there Mike, I hadn't realised the 68 one was different (everything is one year only ) Looks like I might have to keep my eyes open for another one at some point

Having said that, the one Andy and I have doesn't seem to match the 68 or 69 variants... I'm going to have to line it up now to see if the screw holes match up

 

[mike202]

Never knew there was so many differences over the years ! [emoji28]

 

[fallingoffalot]

Never knew there was so many differences over the years ! [emoji28]

No nor me, I thought I'd researched this topic before buying mine - I thought there were only 2, early and late! In the paperwork the PO gave me, there's a certificate, build date 9-Dec-1968, MY 1969.

 

[sparkywig]

As I've said over the years, pedal pans aren't handed.
Yes, there are differences, usually with the fixing holes. But early pans will fit all pre '71 buses and late will fit all '71 on buses.

The one fitted on my rhd bus is similar to yours.

 

[sparkywig]

Some nice info there Mike, I hadn't realised the 68 one was different (everything is one year only ) Looks like I might have to keep my eyes open for another one at some point

I think yours is a 1968MY pan as there's two fixing holes at the rear of the pan.

 

[67westy]

Some nice info there Mike, I hadn't realised the 68 one was different (everything is one year only ) Looks like I might have to keep my eyes open for another one at some point

I think yours is a 1968MY pan as there's two fixing holes at the rear of the pan.

Cheers sparky, I'll give it a go then. Nothing better to do at the minute anyway [emoji846]

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[67panel]

Could look at mine (68) but not sure where it is as didn't see it when tidying unit, think its in the rafters!!!!

 

[fallingoffalot]

Silent coat fitted to front doors. Used 5 sheets on each door. It makes a hell of a difference to how the door sounds when you shut it, looking forward to hearing the difference on the road.

Looks like there's a layer of cavity wax in here. Scraped it off then rubbed with panel wipe.

Reattached the insulation.

I'll put the door cards back when I've recovered them.

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[sparkywig]

You should really have a moisture barrier fitted in place of the insulation, or at least tuck it into the bottom of the door.
Did you fit the silent coat using a heat gun and roller? If not you'll get gaps behind that will trap water and rot the door from the inside.

A previous owner did this to my square back and the door rotted through in a couple of years.

 

[fallingoffalot]

No I just stuck it on and pressed it with my fingers. I wondered that as I did it actually. I'll buy a roller and rectify this, as for a heat gun would a hairdryer do? The insulation is just what was already there from the PO. I'll look at a moisture barrier, any pointers?

 

[sparkywig]

A hairdryer should be OK.
You can get moisture barriers from the usual suppliers and eBay, but I used some blue dpm as I had a roll lying around.
I put 2 pieces in, one taped to the central strengthener and tucked into the bottom of the door and a larger piece just smaller than the door card that covered the entire door.
The door scrapers aren't watertight and this stops any moisture running into the bus and sitting on the inner arches and also destroying the bottoms of the door cards.
Spray loads of wax into the bottoms of the doors and make sure the drain holes at the front are clear as well.
Give your winder mechanism a good lube while you've got the cards off as well.

 

[fallingoffalot]

Great thanks (in the absence of the "thanks" button). I think I've got some dpm somewhere, I've also got some Dinitrol cavity wax. What did you use to stick the dpm on with?

 

[mike202]

I used double-sided tape to stick mine

There’s pictures on my thread from July 2014 that shows the plastic membrane being fitted.


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[sparkywig]

Yep, double sided tape.