Solar panels are coming!

[aogrady]

More!

You have seen the pics from earlier in the thread, so will continue on. From the outset, i wanted to be able to adjust the angle of the panel, to best allow max voltage from the MPPT regulator - though whether this is a advantage here in the UK is another matter.

I used stainless steel fastenings throughout the build.

The hinges were measured and fitted, directly onto the sides of the panel, ready for the alloy brackets, which were then bolted to the roof. Ideally, I would have liked the panel to be mounted on top of the alloy L section, with inboard hinges, then another L section below to fit to the roof, it would have made a "nicer" install if i was being fussy, but to be honest, it doubled the costs of the L section, and the walls of the panel were thicker anyway.

I do need to mount the L section brackets slightly higher - they are direct onto the fibreglass, but due to the curvature of the roof, the middle section of the solar panel rests on the roof, I would prefer it to rest where i want it too, hence I may space it up a few cm's with either cut down roof rubber bungs (demijohn rubbers) or if i can find 2 as a reasonable cost, some hardwood slats

I removed the westy metal roof slats which were fairly heavy, and full of rust, and one was bent, as i didn't need then, and they would just complicate the fitting process. Saved maybe a kilo or so weight. The solar panel is 9kg, the brackets have little weight to them.

So 2 103cm lengths of alloy L section were them fitted to the roof, and to the sides of the hinge rails i fitted earlier, and everything bolted down using the stainless fasteners, which were the same size as the original metal slat rivets.

The panel hinges towards the tailgate, and can be lifted through the rear canvas window, this way it wont get any shadows from the poptop roof, and makes it easier to clean under the panel, a job for another day, still need to paint and refurb the fibreglass, so excuse it looking a little rusty and manky!

Finshed

The wiring was clipped along the side rail, and looped so it didn't kink when raised or lowered,

and for the time being, run under the roof canvas, and down inside, and into the top of the wardrobe, and then down and under the wardrobe and into the under bed area. This is temporary, as i have some other electrical bows and things to fit, so as the regulator is quite sizeable, i cant mount it hidden, as i wont see the display, so it will be mounted externally at the top of the wardrobe up past the grab handle, just for the time being, it's fitted under the bed where the zig used to be be.

I want to redo all the wiring anyway for the new split charge system, but as we are going away at the weekend, it was a bit of a quick fit.

I have took of the leisure battery to charge fully, as it was too flat to accept a proper charge,

More pictures as i progress on

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

More!!

Likey 8)

Don't mind me asking, but how much so far??

Hi,

It's not too dear, the panel was £63, though these are now £85
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130947611903" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It came with 5M of 4mm cable, which is just about enough, i will be re-siting this anyway.

The regulator is a good one, with decent internals (hence size and weight) It's a MPPT unit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAX-20A-200W-PV-mppt-solar-charge-controller-LCD-12V-LVD-LVR-/130882109279?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item1e792e7f5f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I was recommended this one by a few people on another forum. I paid £75, but a customs charge is on top of this, which was about £15 IIRC :roll:

The alloy brackets are around £15 for a 2.5m, but you can get it online, I got mine from Homebase. It's a 25x25mm IIRC.

The hinges are UPVC window units, with adjustable friction, less than a tenner posted.

Other cable is a few quid, again, just a temporary fix till after the weekend, i will be re-doing the lot.

Total about £170, components sourced to my specification, with better items (like the regulator) than most "kits" you see on Ebay, which are about £180-£200

In addition to the above, I am using this split charge system
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110828967152?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And this battery monitor, undecided if i really need to fit it yet
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170901504188?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have quite a few threads from other forums i used in researching for what i wanted, I'll post them up later on...

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Here's a pic showing the solar panel catching a little late pm sun!

Panel working well, when it's sunny that is, 60W going in, not today though!

 

[aogrady]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-MAX-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-SPLIT-CHARGE-/170588370331

I have another 5m of each colour matched wire to extend the T max LED control unit up to where the propex controls are.

I have 2 large grommets to run the 35mm etc from the engine bay into the rock n roll bed, possibly going in from the spare wheel well area.

I have some thicker cable to reduce voltage drop, I have 5m of multifex 35mm2 cable, should do fine. I have some other 15mm2 cable to do other runs from the battery. I have a mega fuse and holder (100A fuse) to protect battery cabling. I have a DP junction box, and earth 8 way connector block for other items. All components are switched via marine switchboard, with re-settable circuit breakers.

I'll run the 15mm up to the fridge, maybe to another fuse box to run the led strips from.

As i mentioned earlier, I have these:

http://www.tayna.co.uk/T-605-Trojan-Battery-Deep-Cycle-T605-P7250.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are 6V, I have 2 linked together making 210aH. Should be enough. I have all the cables, connectors, heatshrink, copper tube crimps etc, I have battery monitoring too, with voltage, SOC, amps etc.

 

[aogrady]

More!!

Hi,

OK, so finished off a bit more of my T Max split charge system. It comes with everything you need, including the power cable, but I bought some 25mm section multiflex wire to run from one battery to another, and from the solenoid to battery, this will minimise any voltage drop. This is probably nearly twice as thick as supplied, so overkill. I have some 16mm to run on the inside to the fridge to replace the thinner (but adequate) cable (but when interior is out) You can see that the 25mm cable is thicker than the stock power cable, so will replace battery to starter cable another day.



I had recently purchased a proper battery crimper tool, so proceededto cutback, crimp, and heatshrink the fittings. Ta-da!



Meanwhile, at t'other end....



I bought a extra 5 meter pack of different coloured 0.75mm cabling to extend the standard length which came with the T Max, cut, soldered and heatshrinked.

Here is the unit in place, just affixed to the screws on the firewall cover. I think i will drill and use a large self tapper, it is very slightly loose, and i haven't found some plastic sheet to fit behind at curve around the corner of the solenoid to insulate the end power supply bolts, as they are close to the bulkhead. I used some rubber self amalgamating tape to seal the "+" connectors away from the "-" body.



And the power connectors to the leisure battery, note, i still need to cable ties things away nicely



Main starter battery



So, just for the time being, (till i get round to building my hidden in the westy wardrobe control box) tempory posistion of the solar regulator and the T Max control box







Once the box has seen the charging voltage rise above 13.3, both batterys are automatically linked together when charging, display of charging voltage being shown on the box. Both battery voltages can be shown on the display, and you can manually link both batterys for extra power if needed, like if the starter battery bank was flat. Though my leisure battery isn't really suited to be used as a cranking battery, but if i was stuck, nice to know i can link.

Both batterys are also isolated when not charging. The system works well, and is rated at 180A for the switching solenoid. The voltage shown on the solar regulator is the charging voltage seen on the leisure battery

It's a temporary setup, and i still intend to fit the 210aH deep cycle bank i have, but need to take out the interior to run the cables properly, so another day this job, as i use the bus most days, dont want it off the road (though it wouldn't matter for a few days)

I'll tidy up the wiring, maybe re-route it and protect from any rubbing, fit new grommets on things, I'll also fuse it, though the standard charging system isn't.

That's it for now.

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[Supertramp]

I think three cheers for Alistair. If anyone wants to do it properly I'd follow his install.
I'm meeting the installer next week but a brief chat and a 100w panel, regulator, cabling and install for the grand price of £120.
Obviously I'm limited to space so like Alistair says maybe 80w or, for this trip, 150w on the poptop and sort it all out when we're back. Need to be able to stay off the grid for another 3 months.

 

[aogrady]

I think three cheers for Alistair. If anyone wants to do it properly I'd follow his install.
I'm meeting the installer next week but a brief chat and a 100w panel, regulator, cabling and install for the grand price of £120.
Obviously I'm limited to space so like Alistair says maybe 80w or, for this trip, 150w on the poptop and sort it all out when we're back. Need to be able to stay off the grid for another 3 months.

Thanks! Though it was a practice attempt to see if it was viable - as you can see, working well, with many improvements to be undertaken when I get the time. Hopefully my homework, and all he links will help people choose and build a suitable system

I'm still running this "temporary" setup years later. I wanted a install without any major mods to the vehicle, and I hate drilling holes, so pretty much none were needed to the vehicle, only 4 IRC, and they were just on the fiberglass poptop for the alloy brackets for the solar panel, no bodywork holes.

Improvements in the future, most items already listed in the links:

Reroute cabling and rewire to main battery feed to allow marine circuit breaker switch bank with bank 1+2 main isolation switch with 100a fuses, though the stock vw battery isn't fused, I think its a good addition to do so.

More battery monitoring with the digital meter already bought (in the links above) Though the regulator I use has good info on current load, battery power, solar input etc, the meter I have gives battery state of charge, so you can see how long you have to run when off solar based on current load, voltage etc before battery depletion, no really a essential as I have only one battery fitted, but if I ever install the Trojan battery bank it'd be handy.

I'd also like to fit a pair of gas struts for the hinges, as it's pretty heavy to push up, mainly as I have the friction set high so it doesn't blow down. Might just loosen it off, and fit a prop or similar instead.

I'll post on this thread and mine if I carry out more mods.

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[creationblue]

Just as a side, I have decided to ditch my solar plans and instead purchased a Waeco compressor cool box, in my case the solar was to top up the battery to keep the fridge running. The waeco is about the same cost as the PV set up I was looking at, it uses 35w and is claimed it will run for 263hrs at 5degC on a 110ah LB at an ambient of 20degC (I assume the claimed running is because the compressor is rarely using energy to keep the fridge cold compared to an absorption fridge).

I'll know for sure sure if the claims are true this weekend

 

[aogrady]

Just as a side, I have decided to ditch my solar plans and instead purchased a Waeco compressor cool box, in my case the solar was to top up the battery to keep the fridge running. The waeco is about the same cost as the PV set up I was looking at, it uses 35w and is claimed it will run for 263hrs at 5degC on a 110ah LB at an ambient of 20degC (I assume the claimed running is because the compressor is rarely using energy to keep the fridge cold compared to an absorption fridge).

I'll know for sure sure if the claims are true this weekend

Interesting to find out, I guess my Waeco CR50 is a similar thing, and I have a 110ah too

Good luck!

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[r73]

Compressor fridges are good and don't use much power, but my CR50 only lasts about a day and a bit on a 100ah leisure batt but that's generally the most I need out of it between mains hook ups. Not sure my battery is that great tbh and there'll be some power draining form other appliances as well.
Fridge works super cool and great to have a proper freezer as well, although they're not silent compared to absorption fridges.
What model did you go for Just?

I like the idea of solar but can't seem to make the numbers work financially. :-(

 

[creationblue]

Compressor fridges are good and don't use much power, but my CR50 only lasts about a day and a bit on a 100ah leisure batt but that's generally the most I need out of it between mains hook ups. Not sure my battery is that great tbh and there'll be some power draining form other appliances as well.
Fridge works super cool and great to have a proper freezer as well, although they're not silent compared to absorption fridges.
What model did you go for Just?

I like the idea of solar but can't seem to make the numbers work financially. :-(

Hi mate

The fridge arrived this morning, its a CDF18, I replaced my wet LB with a AGM type, this is 90Ah but equivalent to a 110ah wet battery. Ill post my findings....

***apologies to OP, gone off topic***

 

[Supertramp]

:msn4:

 

[aogrady]

Nice! What watt?

Alistair

 

[Pickles]

:msn4:

interested to see how they routed the cable from there? what with the front hinged roof.

 

[Supertramp]

100w panel, with an option for another 100 if it doesn't cope, but I think we should be ok.
As for cables, wanted everything very temporary so that when we get home we can do something more permanent, so cable goes to the side and into the bus via the stench pipe hole which is no longer in use. Then along the roof above the headliner and down into the engine bay.
Not exactly pretty, but does the job and we've got another 3 months of potential free camping so we've more than made our money back by not paying for campsites or electricity.

Plan for home is semi flexi. I know they're not as efficient though believe they're getting better. 2x90 to 180w, two holes at the front of the poptop, pinned to the roof and again, in through the stench pipe hole and above the headliner.

Probably not to everyone's cup of tea, but I'd find it hard to ever pay for a campsite again when some of the French Aires are prettier.

 

[aogrady]

Great stuff, post up with the results '

Cheers

Alistair

 

[busdiver]

i am watching this with much interest, when i was looking for afridge for the bus i did'nt want a 3 way dometic as i was not willing to put massive vents in the bus.... so i looked around and danbury were using a Vitrfrigo compressor fridge using the same bd35 compressor as the CR50 does the Waeco ones never came up on my radar back then (5 years'ish). i had someone give me what turned out to be a dodgy equation to work out battery/fridge run time. (3 days on a 110ah battery :lol: ). so afetr much dissapointment around brittany at points freezing my pepsi and other times not working at all.

so if i can get a solar panel to run my fridge and top off the the LB i shall never need a hook up again.......

the old girl is still in bits having resto but thinking ahead will watch this space.

on a similar vane has anyone used any through panel cable entry fixings because if i did the solar panel i would mount it under my 2 bow front roof rack so it slides out over the windscreen when parked up, and would need to get the cable into the van neatly

 

[Supertramp]

Right, so far...
The regulator originally installed wouldn't work very well and kept low voltage alarming. I have a feeling my leisure is kaput, despite only being 6 months old because it's struggling to hold its charge.
Regulator has been switched for a different one as a temporary solution until I get home and order the same as Alistair (and a number of other motorhomers). What I can say is that we've been installed a week and I haven't hooked up, the CR50 has kept running and the battery (though not holding charge well) is holding enough to prevent the fridge going into low voltage shutdown.
So, 100w and ok regulator is doing what it needs to do. However, we are in Morocco, sun is plentiful and strong. When I get back to the UK my winter project will be a serious solar install, 200w+ as we'll be going for a different interior too.

No issues thus far with decreased MPG or wind issues, despite the rigid panel on the poptop. Nor is it too heavy to pop.

Happy camper!!!

 

[aogrady]

i am watching this with much interest, when i was looking for afridge for the bus i did'nt want a 3 way dometic as i was not willing to put massive vents in the bus.... so i looked around and danbury were using a Vitrfrigo compressor fridge using the same bd35 compressor as the CR50 does the Waeco ones never came up on my radar back then (5 years'ish). i had someone give me what turned out to be a dodgy equation to work out battery/fridge run time. (3 days on a 110ah battery :lol: ). so afetr much dissapointment around brittany at points freezing my pepsi and other times not working at all.

so if i can get a solar panel to run my fridge and top off the the LB i shall never need a hook up again.......

the old girl is still in bits having resto but thinking ahead will watch this space.

on a similar vane has anyone used any through panel cable entry fixings because if i did the solar panel i would mount it under my 2 bow front roof rack so it slides out over the windscreen when parked up, and would need to get the cable into the van neatly

Hi!

Yes, running even a modest solar panel should keep you off grid permanently, especially as you'll be out and about no doubt during the day or so, so topping up with a split charge system to offset any usage during laid up relaxing with a beer or two...

Very interesting idea about having the panel under a roof rack, and sliding it out when parked. You can get commercial van type pull out rails, I had been looking at a similar idea to slide out my entire fridge, hob unit when cooking, but may just hinge it all off the bulkhead instead

I think a slide out panel is a awesome idea, look forward to seeing this take shape! Maybe a cheeky little gas strut for some smooooth sliding action?? Mmm mmm!

Cheers

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Right, so far...
The regulator originally installed wouldn't work very well and kept low voltage alarming. I have a feeling my leisure is kaput, despite only being 6 months old because it's struggling to hold its charge.
Regulator has been switched for a different one as a temporary solution until I get home and order the same as Alistair (and a number of other motorhomers). What I can say is that we've been installed a week and I haven't hooked up, the CR50 has kept running and the battery (though not holding charge well) is holding enough to prevent the fridge going into low voltage shutdown.
So, 100w and ok regulator is doing what it needs to do. However, we are in Morocco, sun is plentiful and strong. When I get back to the UK my winter project will be a serious solar install, 200w+ as we'll be going for a different interior too.

No issues thus far with decreased MPG or wind issues, despite the rigid panel on the poptop. Nor is it too heavy to pop.

Happy camper!!!

Sounds like a good working system aside from a flaky battery, could you get a cheap battery over there?

You may well find the 100w panel and a good regulator and battery would work just fine, you'll be changing the battery and reg anyway....

A 200w system sounds epic! Remember I have 210ah of ultra deep cycle Trojan batteries looking for a home! Sounds like you might need a little extra capacity

Cheers

Alistair