Sound Insulating

[olance]

Evening All

Am now cracking on with the next stage of interior refit. I bought some Fat Mat insulation and have covered the engine bay area except the wheel arches and the spare wheel well. I was wondering what other people have done with the wheel well - insulated or not?

The plan is to strip out the inside, including the floor which should be ok as I replaced it less than 2 years ago and sort out any rust issue which should be none (I sorted them out last time). The wheel arches need a little TLC but not a big job. Once all done, the next stage of the insulation can go down.

Has anyone any recommendations for a cheaper and comparable product for sounds proofing as using the Fat Mat stuff will end up costing the best part of £200 for the whole van or is this just another unfortunate cost?

 

[AxlFoley]

If you do a bit of asearch on here i think someone has used flat roof flashing from BandQ its basicaly the same as dyno mat but at half the price.

Mark

 

[werksberg]

You might will be wanting to check these engine compartment ceiling panels kits too:
'68 - '71:

or '73 - '79:

But I now see you have a '72 Bus which has a 1 year only engine compartment ceiling 2pc panels. I have 1x set here to make the patterns from...but when.....?

Either way, if you have the stock stamped steel grid ones, try adding a full sheet under them for more density for the engine sounds.....

 

[olance]

I'm going to give the van a run at speed with what I have sone to see what difference has been achieved so far and make a decision afterwards - will bear it in mind. What's the price for one?

 

[werksberg]

Sounds good!

The 1/8" thick ABS plastic version are $65 plus shipping...but I might will be also making them from tempered hardboard but the ABS is a far superior material than press board.

IMO density is the best for sound and insulation.

 

[wanderlust]

bought some stuff of ebay, cost me about £80 to do the entire floor and above engine. basically bitumen on one side and silver foil on other. noticed a big difference in noise reduction from road.

 

[Tiki-Al]

if you put this in your engine bay wont the silver backing reflect the heat? i have dynomat everywhere in my bus but for this reason left it out of the engine bay???

 

[werksberg]

All the high heat is under the lower engine tin and top air temp is ambient air......that comes down from the scoops.

 

[crede999]

hi i have the og sound proofing in the engine bay and ive dyno mated everywhere in the van , if i could get my hand in it went in, over 50sq meters of the stuff , its so quiet and works brillantly, i did 60 mph in italy for 4 hrs fully loaded with kids and camping gear in 40 degrees and didnt over heat !!, i got mine off a audio guy at cost , think i paid £120 best money ive spent

regards
chris

 

[ballbag]

I have used the sticky back lead flashing, I got it from Focus DIY and ended up finding loads at work too. It works brilliantly, although I haven't put any in the engine bay.

 

[vdub wannabe]

I'm also refitting the interior of my van (new headliner, cupboards, bed etc). I have already taken off all the door cards/panel trims. Waxoyled it all and then fitted dynomat pads, not one giant sheet though, smaller pads.

On Ebay there are several products like dynomat. These included Ivanhoe (that I have just ordered), E dead and Brown Bread. All do virtually the same as Dynomat, reduce the 'drum' of the panel.

I can now shut the bus doors with a nice 'clunk' rather than a 'ping'.

Make sure the product you are applying to your panels is butyl based and not bitumen based. Bitumen based products (like the self adhesive roofing panels from Wickes etc) will turn brittle after long exposure to heat unlike the butyl pads that will remain flexible.

Over the top of the butyl pads I will be putting a product called 'second skin'. Basically a fire retardant & waterproof foam with a heat reflective surface. This will (should) retian the heat and also reduce exterior noise.
The second skin is very light weight but hte buytl pads are'nt!

After that I'll stick the trim panels back on and take a long drive see how it makes a difference.

I did this to my convertible beetle and the difference was amazing!

Try these guys too: http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-15-sound-deadening.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are always really helpful, sell stuff by the metre and sell high temperature stuff you can stick in you engine bay.

 

[werksberg]

Listen to this guy above! Density and different materials are the secret to insulation in sound and heat.

 

[mginty]

I'm also at the same stage.
I've used Reimo stuff as recommended to me by Mad VW who did the resto work on my van. T4/ T5 conversions are their bread and butter so I figured they knew their stuff! Although the website is in mostly german, there are english sections and a UK number to order from. Anyway, I got this stuff:
http://reimonew.ms-visucom.de/en/M50015-reimo_x_trem_isolator/
I got the 10mm thick stuff which was £15 for one sheet. This did the side panels on both sides except for a small section above the rear wheel arches so I'm going to get maybe 1 or 2 more sheets for for the rear sections above engine bay. I did take photos but unfortunately my camera is shafted and the pics are just black squares so can't show at present!
I also got this glue, Scotch Weld 3M 90 (high temp resistance)
http://reimonew.ms-visucom.de/en/50013-super_spray_on_glue_500ml_box/
which was £20 and was enough for the one sheet above. This site looks like you can get it cheaper (there are also others):
http://www.directa.co.uk/site/scripts/product_browse.php?product_id=16831
Reimo also do engine bay stuff which is what I'm after now.
http://reimonew.ms-visucom.de/en/M50024-schalldaemm_isolationsmatten/
£20 - £30 100 x 50 cm doesn't look too bad...but I'll have a look at some of this other recommended stuff and from woolies for the cab doors and engine bay unless anyone has a recommendation for engine bay?

For the floor all i've used is waterproof laminate floor underlay from B&Q - grey stuff folded up about £14 I think. Still also need to waxoyl everywhere. no idea whether this will help but sure it must be better! Did have some other links but my PC also died recently and I haven't recovered the data yet.
Finally in the course of research I found this site but I think it's a little old now?
http://www.type2.com/library/heat/Engine.html
http://www.type2.com/library/heat/intrir1.html
Cheers

 

[curly head]

maybe asking a silly question but is it best to wax oil piror to fitting insulation stuff?

if so, does it still stick?

 

[gninnam]

I used the roof flashing - dead-n's the panels a treat and also reduces a bit of heat lost - you need extra lagging to keep all the heat in the van (not wool etc)

 

[angus]

Excellent links guys - ta!