Timing

[ground hugger]

Hi all
bit this.Ive built the engine up,clean'd the carb and its running a ok :lol: .
Now the bit,today ive try'd the timing light on it just to make sure :shock: 20-25 deg advanced.
So Ive gone through every thing in my head again and all i can think is ,ive set the distributor at no 3 cylinder TDC. The notch on the distributor is at 2 oclock .
It should be at 5 oclock-ish,right if I get no1 cylinder at TDC and rotate the distributor notch to where the rotor arm is pointing,should be 5oclock-ish.Put the leads back on the right way ,it should be right to strobe up ? .

My head hurts thinking about it :lol: ...Dave

 

[froggy]

Unless you have set up the dizzy drive when you re-built the engine then the chances are No1 TDC will no longer line up with the notch on the dizzy casing. Just set No1 Cylinder to TDC and then fit your leads according to where this lines up with the rotor arm, this is what i had to do with mine. I also marked on the dizzy cap where the new No1 position was just incase i take the leads off for anything else

 

[ground hugger]

Hi froggy
I didnt take the drive out just the dizzy.The thing thats throwing me off track is,its an after market pully with the degree markings stamped on it.With the strobe on as is, it reads 20-25 degrees advanced...............its just come to me if I put the strobe clamp on no3 lead it would have been ok-ish..........Thats the thing I couldn't get into my head why it was 20-25 degrees advanced doh!......I think it should be ok ,I'll re set it tomorrow turn it over by hand .It was running ok and to be honest I would have gone with it .The tappets should be ok as it was running fine,all im doing is changing the fireing order around.......Does this sound right?

 

[lard]

If it helps - my vac advance dizzy has it's no.1 notch at about 2 o'clock and this is where mine lines up with the rotor arm and no.1 TDC using the pencil method rather than 5 o'clock, my timing confusion was related to the TDC mark on the pully and timing off the wrong mark

 

[Araon]

The TDC should be 90 degrees to the woodruff key even the cheapo manufacturers surely cant get that wrong.....

or am i further mis reading it......

Sleep need sleep

 

[ground hugger]

This is what it should look like,but ive got .Going to sort it out later

 

[ground hugger]

No 1 piston at top,pully at TDC

Dizzy removed looks ok as per book(HAYNES)

Dizzy back in :evil: 2o'clock

Any one got a clue why its not at 5o'clock as per book :?: please

 

[froggy]

These are / were so many different dizzy's used over the years that the chances are your dizzy is not the original dizzy, IIRC the 009 dizzy's notch is also in a different place to the book.
Dont worry to much where the notch on the dizzy is aslong as you set it up correctly and make sure you use No.1 lead for the timing :lol: regardless of where this is in relation to the book.

 

[ground hugger]

These are / were so many different dizzy's used over the years that the chances are your dizzy is not the original dizzy, IIRC the 009 dizzy's notch is also in a different place to the book.
Dont worry to much where the notch on the dizzy is aslong as you set it up correctly and make sure you use No.1 lead for the timing :lol: regardless of where this is in relation to the book.

Hi froggy
I should stop messing around with it it was running ok before all this.
The 009 is as you say at 7o'clock and Ive looked at most of the pics posted of engines and some of them seem to be set with no1 ht lead at 5 o'clock.strange,think Ill put it all back together and get the tune up guy round and remark the pully some how...but saying that it should be right :?

 

[ground hugger]

Your right froggy ,just had a look here http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10774" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; nearly every dizzy is set up different. Put it all back together,can't get it to tick over now.Stripped/clean the carb again put it all back together and still wont tick over Will have another go tomorrow " F*<£ing VWs" :evil:

 

[Loxy]

My 72 has the exact same alignment (with the og dizzy), what's the dizzy part number?

 

[ground hugger]

Hi Loxy
Its a Bosch
JFUD4 <
0231180 001
211 905 2059

 

[ground hugger]

Sorted I hope My fault Ignore the bit where the notch on the dizzy should be,i've learn't there all different.Cheers froggy.
Dismantled the carb again yesterday and the new O ring on the idle mixture screw had split in half.Fitted a new one built it back up .
Started engine up today and ran it till it was warm.Put the strobe light on/this is also my rev counter (Led).got the timing 7.5 degrees BTDC :roll: idling set at 850ish.Rev it and it back fires and dies.
Right,I dont know much about these engines and there codes but Im learning and I think/hope this is where its going pear shaped.
Its a 1600 twinport 34 pict-3 carb with no stampings on the case apart from
MEXICO AS 41
043101-102A
-101A
Should I be timing this to 7.5 degrees BTDC ....'AD' code
or 5 degrees ATDC ...'AE' code

Cheers.......Dave

 

[froggy]

You need to time it to 7.5 BTDC, with the advance pipe removed and blocked off

 

[ground hugger]

Hi Froggy
Thats what I have done but it will not rev up .Ticks over with the odd pop from the exhauste but thats about it,If I turn the dizzy anti clockwise it gets better.Thats why I wondered if it should be set at 5 degrees ATDC. Info from the net says AE engine code 1971-73 which fits in with my van 72.

From another site
AE - 71 - 1600 - W/cross member holes
I take it these are for the front engine mount.

Just wondered if there was an easy way of telling what the engine code is

 

[froggy]

The timing needs setting depending on the dizzy number, the engine code means nothing.
On you dizzy there should be a number, most end 009, 205, 010. Have a look on here
http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ovhignbo.htm find your dizzy number and it tells you what car/van the dizzy was originally for, click on the vehicle link (in blue) and this will then tell you the spec / settings etc for that dizzy.
Hope this helps

 

[geezerblast]

bloody hell having same problem..
checked checked.. engine wont start just backfires.
did you just set no 1.. tdc then try and star up? :x :x

 

[ground hugger]

Your the man Froggy

Bus & Pickup 1971 * 1600

Distributor: VW 211-905-205Q, Bosch 0231 167 055 or 211-905-205S, 0231 180 001 > 043-905-205D, 0231 176 033
Can Use: VW 043-905-205D, Bosch 0231 176 033, 113-905-205AH, 0231 167 053
Points: 01 011
Points Replacement Plate Assy: VW 311-905-227A, Bosch 1237 110 064
Condensor: 02 054
Rotor: 04 033
Note: 205S/001 Distributors originally equipped with 04 021 Speed Limiting Rotor (4500rpm)
Dust Cover: 039-905-241, Bosch 1230 500 139 > 1230 500 147
Cap: 03 010
Distributor Cap Clip: 034-905-265, Bosch 1231 251 033
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 00 015 (Blue Coil: 00 012)
Vacuum Can: 07 092
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 5deg ATDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe, vacuum hose(s) connected
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 2-5deg Adv, 11-13deg Ret; Centrifugal: 12-16deg @ 2200rpm, 22-25deg @ 3800rpm


5 deg ATDC Thanks alot pal......Dave

 

[ground hugger]

bloody hell having same problem..
checked checked.. engine wont start just backfires.
did you just set no 1.. tdc then try and star up? :x :x

What i've been doing is all on here http://www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and here
http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[geezerblast]

like i say doesn't even whant to start just backfires every now and then.go a carb refurb kit will put on tomorow
try again .just looked at dizzy chart great information