Twin carbs, which ones?

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Low n slow

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Hi, looks like I've got manifold problems again with my 1600 SP engine. I now think the only way to go to get round the problem is twin carbs. I know nothing about twin carbs other that they are a bitch to set up properly so would like some advice on which ones to buy and ease of setting up etc, etc. I had twin DRLA's on a T25 though and had no problems with them once the engine got warm. Many thanks in advance, Shaun.
 
34s and sorted, yeah too about the warming up bit, but I m not a winter type anyhows . Soon be spring guys :shock: :lol: :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,, summer is a commin, summer is a comminn :mrgreen: :mrgreen: ;) ;) :mrgreen:
 
34s and sorted, yeah too about the warming up bit, but I m not a winter type anyhows . Soon be spring guys :shock: :lol: :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,, what’s a little double post between friends Hhmmm, aahhh summer ! :mrgreen:
 
I've got a pair or Dellorto DRLA 36, just make sure you have a matching pair
996fe472431927ef07948b4c489eecc1.jpg


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On a single port you don’t really have much choice tbh, Weber ICT’s, Dell’orto FRD’s or Kadrons. I’d go for a complete Weber kit new from Eurocarb with the CSP linkage. Dell’ortos are getting hard to find and Kadrons are just guff.

Twin carbs aren’t difficult to set up, get a carb balancer and do plenty of reading. People often bleet on & on that twin carbs need constant fiddling with, that rubbish. 99% of twin carb problems are due to crappy linkages, I’ve got the CSP linkage on my 48’s and I never tough them.
 
I have Weber 34s and the csp linkage on my 1641 single port. Have basically been fit and forget apart from usual servicing. Important to get fuel pressure into them right, and set up correctly from the get go.

This article has a lot of useful info

https://www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/


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sparkywig said:
I'd go with a new set of 34 icts and a CSP linkage, Shaun, they worked really well on my single port.
I've got mine and Zed's amended Mucky Green set up from the JK forum if you want it.

What is this mucky green set up you speak of? JK, that was ions ago.:)
 
Another one for 34ICTs- once set up properly they're absolutely fine and I gained about 10hp from mine- tested on a rolling road.
Setup is more difficult, you can use a synchroniser for airflow, that's easy enough.
The bit I struggled with for a while, is CO coming from the exhaust (air/fuel mix). Didn't want to do it by ear, and if one carb's rich and the other's lean, you could end up looking bang on but running silly hot on one side. Used two gunson colortunes in the end (so I could directly compare) for balance, and still used the CO meter for overall CO output.

if going for 34ICTs, you'll want a balance pipe for idle and CB performance manifolds- the EMPI ones are horrible, you can't even get the spark plugs out with them fitted. Also- electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and gauge.
 
A wide band kit is a good thing to have, saves a fortune on dyno time if your not after every ounce of power from a tune
 
We have a 1776 with twin 34ICTs had no problems but need to be set up correctly, bit hard to start in the winter because they have no choke,
so what i do is to give the engine a run about three times a week to keep the juices flowing, if it wont start a squirt of fuel down each carb does the trick
Our setup is "Main jet 147" "Idle jet 52" but yours will probably be different being a 1600
Give Atafonzo a PM he will be able to point you in the right direction about your setup (He is very knowledgable)
As Happystamps says buy CB performance manifolds, also if you are going to buy your carbs new i would recommend "Eurocarb" they will jet the carbs to your specification.
Get yourself a Flow Meter (Synchrometer) make life a lot easier when you set the carbs up

Hope This Helps











 
vinvan said:
We have a 1776 with twin 34ICTs had no problems but need to be set up correctly, bit hard to start in the winter because they have no choke,
so what i do is to give the engine a run about three times a week to keep the juices flowing, if it wont start a squirt of fuel down each carb does the trick
Our setup is "Main jet 147" "Idle jet 52" but yours will probably be different being a 1600
Give Atafonzo a PM he will be able to point you in the right direction about your setup (He is very knowledgable)
As Happystamps says buy CB performance manifolds, also if you are going to buy your carbs new i would recommend "Eurocarb" they will jet the carbs to your specification.
Get yourself a Flow Meter (Synchrometer) make life a lot easier when you set the carbs up

Hope This Helps













You have a lovely van, PLEASE ditch the glass fuel filter. They are notorious for leaking!!!
 
Thanks K@rlos
Will ditch the glass filter, Found a few cracks in the fuel lines so will be replacing them all soon, i will do the filter at the same time, do you have any recommendations re the filter (i dont like the plastic ones as they are also unreliable)

Cheers Bob
 
I’ve never had a problem with the plastic filters with over nine years of van ownership. I’m not sure where this story about them being unreliable and liable to crack open comes from.
Mine is by the gear box as recommended though, but I do check it now and again. [emoji851]


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mike202 said:
I’ve never had a problem with the plastic filters with over nine years of van ownership. I’m not sure where this story about them being unreliable and liable to crack open comes from.
Mine is by the gear box as recommended though, but I do check it now and again. [emoji851]


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It's where people have mounted them to close to heat sources, also they need to be checked more regularly not that we're using fuels with ethanol content.
Although saying that, I've still got one on the bus that's about 12 years old.....
 
Thanks everyone you've given a lot to think about. I will probably go with Eurocarb Webber 34 ICT's. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the Hex Linkage set up and the CSP Bellcrank please?
 
I would go with the CSP bellcrank linkage, the hex bar is harder to set up and keep in adjustment. It's not brilliantly designed, there's too many parts, joints and it flexes while in use.
I've got the CSP bellcranks on both the bus and type 3, never had to touch them after initial set up.
 
CSP bellcrank without a doubt, by far the best linkage out there and is the only 1 I fit/use.

Hexbar style wears out very quickly resulting in constant fiddling and the as much as I love Gene Berg products their linkage is VERY outdated, over engineered and complicated. Just remember to synchronise the carbs when the engines hot otherwise the carbs will get held open as the engine grows with heat causing it to race.
 

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