urgent help needed!

[streetboy]

Since putting this engine and steadily tinkering, yesterday it was running spot on. I adjusted the valves yesterday and tweeked the timing back a fraction and she was driving really nicely and smooth at idle.
This morning I was aiming to put the finishing touch by adjusting the choke. It ran better from cold but as the choke came off it seemed a bit lumpy but drove ok to drop my lad off at work. But when I started it again later things got progressively worse, so much so it will hardy run now and is a b*tch to start. It also will just die all of a sudden.
I have checked the valves again to a sliding fit at 00.06th, I have changed the coil, put the old points dizzy in (running pertronix and even put the old carb back on, and it still runs rubbish
The leads, plugs, cap and rotor etc were all brand new.
Could it be the valve adjustment? or has something gone really wrong?
I have not tried changing the fuel filter yet so might try that, but struggling for ideas guys:?

Supposed to going to France on the 15th April and feel really deflated right now as it won't even get off the driveway

 

[Doris]

check the distributor hasn't slipped round & is clamped secure.

 

[streetboy]

Thanks Doris, both dizzy were located ok, I've put the one with the petronix back in now as the change made no difference at all. Same applies to the carb, no joy there either.
It almost seems like valve adjustment, so I'll check them again later when cold. I have a fuel filter made up on pipe so will stick that on to, could be fuel delivery blockage? I also sprayed all around the carb and manifold to look for air leaks but found nothing.
Or it could be something has gone wrong internally with the valves sticking?

Just to note that when turning the engine over by hand it seemed to be harder than I remember, seems to have more back pressure?

 

[streetboy]

Well I've made a horrible discovery :shock: I have checked the end float and its huge All got to come out again and see what the damage is. Would a sudden large amount of end float cause all the running problems I'm having? I only hope its not damaged the rear crank bearing and I may just be lucky enough to get away with re-shimming and tightening.

It did seem odd that the running issues happened all of a sudden. Mind you I recall a bit of harshness when driving that could have been part of the trouble.

Proper up against it now and not very long to get it sorted

 

[streetboy]

Sadly I put it back in today and no change Massive end float within 5 mins and running dreadful. Heaven knows whats going on in the case :? buts it major. Anyone got any ideas?

So its out again tomorrow first thing and I'm going to use AS21 case from the old engine. I checked the float and its 0.004, Is that right? very very minimal and the engine was running fine but loosing lots of oil from everywhere. I dragged it into the garage and ripped it down this afternoon/eve and its cleaned up ok. I'm going the try and make the best out of both by using the old case and the new barrels, pistons and heads from the knackered engine. Also the tinware, manifold, carb etc. I've got a full gasket set so I can just plough on with it. I do need a set of push rod seals in a hurry or will the newish ones from the stuffed engine stretch?

I have this week and the coming weekend to get this old girl running and on the ferry the thursday after :shock: it can be done

 

[the.fordhams]

Best of luck with the project.

Sudden end float - could be that the flywheel gland nut has come loose and letting the flywheel off the crank. Make sure thats real tight and threadlocked.

A dropped valve or bad valve adjustment could show as a misfire maybe.

If the crank has been machining its own clearance wouldn't that be a slow process not all of a sudden? If this has happened you're going to have to get everything cleaned flushed and then cleaned again to get rid of those shavings. If its small particles it will shorten the life of the next engine quite a bit.

Check timing - what dizzy have you got - make sure its dynamic timed so its advancing good from idle through the rev range, check max advance is not greater than 30deg at high revs to be on the safe side. Use the max advance number to set timing and let the idle fall where it will.

Oil leaks are a pain - new red high quality flywheel seal, non distorted case - old ones could be overheated and distorted slightly and or cracked, good pushrod seals - not the cheapy ones in the kit, newer pushrod tubes, fresh oil cooler seals and a newer flat oil pan with new gaskets. Make sure the oil relief is not stuck closed and you have massive pressure at cold. All will help with less oil leaks.

 

[streetboy]

Best of luck with the project.

All worked out ok, rebuilt the old case and swapped over new heads etc from the damaged one. Just back from a near 1000 mile trip to France. Running nice and no oil loss or leaks

I plan to strip the other case down soon and get to the bottom of why it has suffered a huge and sudden end float problem. I'm sure its not the gland nut though, done up FT :shock:

 

[jacks906]

when you say huge end float how much are you talking?

 

[streetboy]

when you say huge end float how much are you talking?

I'd say without measuring around a 1/4 inch :shock: a lot compared to the other case!

 

[jacks906]

:shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Guest]

when you say huge end float how much are you talking?

I'd say without measuring around a 1/4 inch :shock: a lot compared to the other case!

you were pretty lucky it didnt chew up really :shock: thats alot of end float no doubt!

 

[streetboy]

Hi Johnny, thats the odd thing, no damage to the rear of the case or metalis residue that I could see for wear :? might be different when I strip the case down.
It only happened overnight so never went out on the road again as it ran so badly.

The case is an AS41 with 10mm studs, so a good case if it can be saved. It has had bearings and shells etc. I have enough from both engines to build a spare. I can clean up the original heads as they have no cracks and re-ring the pistons. The barels look ok too. I'll let you all know what I find

Hope to find a cheap box with a starter (condition not important) to bench test it.