Vacuum Dizzy / Stock Filter

[ggn06awu]

Morning Earlybay,

Took the new camper to the surgeons a few weeks ago, and the gent there started a discussion talking about two topics you've probably discussed here to boredom, but one I'd like to know more about

To my knowledge, I have a largely vanilla SP 1600 in my crossover (see here for a photo or two http://imgur.com/a/RRRtP), but the previous owner shoved a 'pancake' filter on the top (a mistake according to my mechanic) and a standard bosch 009 distributor (another mistake).

He's recommending
1. I return to the stock oil bath air filter (which has meant my resourcing a stand too, since it was cut away :roll, as the current set up is really inadequate, and should really only be used by TP engines, as it's a fairly big compromise.
2. Definitely switch to a vacuum advance distributor.

I'm happy with #1, but regarding #2, I'm wondering about just splashing out and buying a Unilite (w.vacuum advance) £300~ and maybe even the Hyfire £150~ module to get rid of the points and condenser, and improve reliability. An alternative is the £60 SVDA units on offer everywhere. What I can't work out is whether these are fine on a SP, whether I'm really just pissing money away,

I'm told these two modifications would improve MPG, performance (particularly getting rid of hesitation low down) and generally improve the running of the engine.

Anyone have any thoughts on any of this?

Cheers!

 

[Trikky2]

IMO your mechanic is right.

Which dissy you get depends on how much you want to spend.

I still run a stock SVDA since it does the job just fine - even on the 2010.

 

[ggn06awu]

Cheers Trikky2,

I don't suppose you (or anyone) has any idea on what carburettor I'm running based on those photos? (he's locked up miles away from home at the moment!).

I'll investigate the range of distributors, I don't mind paying the hefty price tag attached to the Unilite + Hyfire so long as it's worthwhile (debatable, given the lack of reviews I can find), the stock SVDA will be hard to beat price wise, that's for sure!

Is there any reason the Unilite shouldn't work with the SP I've got?

 

[Trikky2]

Carb is a stock Solex 34 pict 3 by the look of it.

Can't help you on how well a non VW dissy will work because I haven't used one. The manufacturers of the aftermarket dissy should have an application list though.

Some of these units are programmable and can give a range of advance curves both on rpm and on vac signal. Needs some expertise to set them up - though there might be some basic presets that can be selected for any particular engine,

Again, the manufacturer is the most likely source of such data.

 

[Marriedblonde]

I fitted one of these on my stock 1600SP and it ran like a dream.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Air-cooled-with-vacuum-advance-Electronic-Distributor-from-Powerspark-/130595742789?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item1e681ce445" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

J.

 

[ggn06awu]

Just got this back from John at Aircooled.Net:

"The Unilite is best for applications that regularly exceed 6500 RPMs.
For a 34-3 carb I recommend either

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Pertronix-Brand-SVDA-Distributor-12-Volt-Version-p/d186504.htm
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Pertronix-II-SVDA-Distributor-D182504-p/d182504.htm
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Pertronix-III-SVDA-Distributor-D7182504-p/d7182504.htm"

That helps a bit too! Might join you two and get in on the less exotic and much cheaper SVDA's I think

 

[norm]

Hello
I've got a svda from accuspark on a single port
Not had any problems in over 5000 miles
Norm

 

[jonboylaw]

I have some plots showing the advance curves for the different VW distributors somewhere if anyone wants them.


Sent from my GX64 SatCom phone using Tapatalk

 

[weeboll]

or leave the 009 well alone and just fit an electronic ignition kit to it.. ?

I've had the same 009 which i bought when I first got the van well over 10000 miles, over the 10 years ago, in fact its pretty much the only part I still have that was fitted to the original engine!

put an empi electronic ignition on it at the start of the year and its improved its pep not that I ever had hesitation

also, everyone slags the pancake air filters but no one worries about them on their 34icts, 36 drla's, 40's etc...

vac dissy will give better mpg and you might run slightly cooler but unless you have an oil temp gauge do you even know if your running hot?
buying a timing gun and setting the advance right will probably get rid of the hesitation and be a much better investment I reckon

 

[Happystamps]

or leave the 009 well alone and just fit an electronic ignition kit to it.. ?

I've had the same 009 which i bought when I first got the van well over 10000 miles, over the 10 years ago, in fact its pretty much the only part I still have that was fitted to the original engine!

put an empi electronic ignition on it at the start of the year and its improved its pep not that I ever had hesitation

also, everyone slags the pancake air filters but no one worries about them on their 34icts, 36 drla's, 40's etc...

vac dissy will give better mpg and you might run slightly cooler but unless you have an oil temp gauge do you even know if your running hot?
buying a timing gun and setting the advance right will probably get rid of the hesitation and be a much better investment I reckon

The reason why nobody worries about pancake filters on twin carb applications is because of the short inlet manifolds used with them. With a single centrally mounted carb, the fuel has a long time to condense on the bore of the inlet manifold, which creates an uneven burn. Heating up the air for the inlet helps to prevent this- which is why there's a hot air feed on the standard air filter, and also why there is a pre-heat pipe running along the underside of the standard inlet manifold.
Of course, keeping the manifolds short with twin carbs near the heads keeps everything from condensing as well.

Electronic ignition will cure issues that you have with poorly set up points. Properly set up points will also do that. Of course you don't need to adjust electronic ignition modules so I suppose that's the only advantage, but they're not infinitely reliable, so a few people also keep a points and condenser in the car just in case.

As far as the SVDA/mech only dizzy debate, all I know is that the science stacks up in favour of having an additional vacuum advance to read throttle response as quickly as possible. I don't have any personal experience on the subject though, I've always used an SVDA.

 

[Trikky2]

The reason why nobody worries about pancake filters on twin carb applications is because of the short inlet manifolds used with them. With a single centrally mounted carb, the fuel has a long time to condense on the bore of the inlet manifold, which creates an uneven burn. Heating up the air for the inlet helps to prevent this- which is why there's a hot air feed on the standard air filter, and also why there is a pre-heat pipe running along the underside of the standard inlet manifold.
Of course, keeping the manifolds short with twin carbs near the heads keeps everything from condensing as well.

Electronic ignition will cure issues that you have with poorly set up points. Properly set up points will also do that. Of course you don't need to adjust electronic ignition modules so I suppose that's the only advantage, but they're not infinitely reliable, so a few people also keep a points and condenser in the car just in case.

As far as the SVDA/mech only dizzy debate, all I know is that the science stacks up in favour of having an additional vacuum advance to read throttle response as quickly as possible. I don't have any personal experience on the subject though, I've always used an SVDA.

Agreed :mrgreen:

 

[Zcat7]

Jonboylaw. In line with the SVDA/overheating problems I've been having (see here http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=61318&p=511257#p511257) I would be interested in seeing those advance curves if you can find them.

 

[weeboll]

point taken on the longer manifold condensing issue though that presumably is only warm up as a thermostat cuts it off?

have to confess, my oil bath filter never had a working thermostat nor was the hot air tube ever connected up