009 or Vacuum

[noddy]

Its the carb vacuum combination thats important. You need to match the dissy to the vacuum signal from the carb.

If you are running one of the 30 pict carbs you should be able to use one of the 205 SVA dissys ie 113 905 205T or 205AA which is the universal replacement for the 205's.
Its should also be possible to use a SVDA but you will need to time it dynamicaly as it could be before TCD statically timed.

What carb do you have and what dissy?

 

[mattd1984]

Its the carb vacuum combination thats important. You need to match the dissy to the vacuum signal from the carb.

If you are running one of the 30 pict carbs you should be able to use one of the 205 SVA dissys ie 113 905 205T or 205AA which is the universal replacement for the 205's.
Its should also be possible to use a SVDA but you will need to time it dynamicaly as it could be before TCD statically timed.

What carb do you have and what dissy?

I have to show my ignorance and say i dont know....if i posted a picture would that help? or how can i find out what has been fitted?

 

[easy]

Post up a pick of the engine bay dude, particularly the carb and dizzy and we will help you 8)

 

[noddy]

Carb type with be cast in to the side of the float chamber if its a stock solex, the dissy part number will be on the main body of the dissy, or post a picture of the lh side of the carb, and a good close up of the dissy.

 

[mattd1984]

Ok these are the pictures....any help would be superb

 

[Joval]

That's a vac only dissy AFAIK and I think correct for that carb.

 

[noddy]

Yeo carb and dissy combination looks good its a SVA dissy and a solex 30 pict 1 which is a correct match.

Just take care when timing the dissy the two I have both have about 30 degrees of advance so it the were timed at 7.5 degrees before top dead center on number one cylinder, they would run well past the safe max limit.

The reason you need to take care when timing these dissy is if it runs much past 32 degrees full advance you with get the mixture detonating to early, that is before the piston is at or near the top of the stroke. The piston ends up trying to compress an exploding mixture which puts massive strain on the crank and bearings, and on a long cruse could destroy an engine.

Simple check is to start you engine run up to about 3000 rpm and point a strobe with an advance function at the timing mark and turn the dial on the strobe it the mark lines up with the split in the case. Then read off on the scale on the strobe, this will tell you how much advance the dissy has, assuming static timing is 0 degrees or TCD on no 1 piston. Just amke sure your not running past 32 degrees before TCD at about 3000 rpm.

 

[Tofufi]

Just one more point... ditch the see through distributor cap (common cause of misfires when they get old, and sometimes even brand new) and fit a stock air filter (reduces the risk of carb icing significantly) and your engine will run much better

Does it ever stall in cold weather, especially approaching junctions?

 

[mattd1984]

Just one more point... ditch the see through distributor cap (common cause of misfires when they get old, and sometimes even brand new) and fit a stock air filter (reduces the risk of carb icing significantly) and your engine will run much better

Does it ever stall in cold weather, especially approaching junctions?

Yer the dissy caps a bit cracked too so need to replace it.....with regards to the standard air filter. The bracket that hold the air box on has been removed by previous.

I have a IMDU warmer fitted, this seems to be working fine as dont get any misfires or stalling these days.

 

[mattd1984]

Yeo carb and dissy combination looks good its a SVA dissy and a solex 30 pict 1 which is a correct match.

Just take care when timing the dissy the two I have both have about 30 degrees of advance so it the were timed at 7.5 degrees before top dead center on number one cylinder, they would run well past the safe max limit.

The reason you need to take care when timing these dissy is if it runs much past 32 degrees full advance you with get the mixture detonating to early, that is before the piston is at or near the top of the stroke. The piston ends up trying to compress an exploding mixture which puts massive strain on the crank and bearings, and on a long cruse could destroy an engine.

Simple check is to start you engine run up to about 3000 rpm and point a strobe with an advance function at the timing mark and turn the dial on the strobe it the mark lines up with the split in the case. Then read off on the scale on the strobe, this will tell you how much advance the dissy has, assuming static timing is 0 degrees or TCD on no 1 piston. Just amke sure your not running past 32 degrees before TCD at about 3000 rpm.

Ok getting a bit more confused now....I do need to replace the dissy. What would i go for and where to get it from? was origianaly going to go for the Bosh replacement that Heritage do but was advised not to as im running a single port? Any ideas now? :?

Cheers

 

[Joval]

Keep your dissy, static timed at 0.

look at the number on the side and check the timing here -

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[noddy]

Dissy is ok just take care when you set the timing, it should be set at 0 degrees on number one ignition lead, ie the timing mark should line up with the split in the case when strobed.

Dont go wasting money on a new dissy the one you have is fine for the carb.

 

[Lang]

Finally got round to swapping my 009 for the SVDA I bought of evilbay (new £71 including p&p). I have a 1600sp with solex 31pict carb so I don't know if its the perfect setup but timed her up & went for a test ride......what a difference smooth steady ride. I've had 5 bloody years of bogging down & having to rev her to get a move on all down to the 009 :evil:
So burn/smash/destroy those 009s ladies & gentlemen & get ssssssmooth

 

[mattd1984]

Finally got round to swapping my 009 for the SVDA I bought of evilbay (new £71 including p&p). I have a 1600sp with solex 31pict carb so I don't know if its the perfect setup but timed her up & went for a test ride......what a difference smooth steady ride. I've had 5 bloody years of bogging down & having to rev her to get a move on all down to the 009 :evil:
So burn/smash/destroy those 009s ladies & gentlemen & get ssssssmooth

Nice thats good news mate, the problem im having is when im cruising along at say 30mph in 3rd so only got a bit of gas down it really jerky, thats the only way i can describe it really does it in all gears. Its fine when you give it a bit of gas. So i've put it down to the dissy. :?

 

[noddy]

Could be lots of things or combination of causes:

Valve clearances out of adjustment not all at 0.15mm
Blocked jet/s in carb
Worn dissy cap and rotor
HT lead/s braking down
Badly adjusted points
Air leak/s
Incorrect plugs or plug gap/s.

 

[Lang]

You said you dizzy cap was cracked, replace it first with a standard unit (coloured ones are crap) & check all your leads at the same time. Once thats sorted you can start to look for other reasons for the misfire if it isn't cured.
Always try & check the simple things first