1303 G/box nose cone and front mount fitting questions

[Nick-Rackham]

Questions on fitting a 1303 gearbox in an early bay.

1) with the extender pieces available here I'm looking at putting a 1303 box in Mollie when I get to that part and thinking about how to mount the front. Loads of threads on here about home made brackets, using washers etc etc, but is there now a "preferred" or proper way to mount the front?

2) I understand that a standard 1303 box raises the output shaft by about and inch (or is this false information?) Does the rear mount need to be raised the same amount to compensate?

3) if and or when doing a gearbox raise which is the preferred nose cone and hockey stick to use? Split Bus 60-67?

4) anyone have any details (picture heavy) about engine/gearbox raises especially the rear engine mount and the imp[act on the rear valance and tinware seal etc.

Thanks in advance

Nick

 

[AxlFoley]

there is a preferred method, and that is to get a pre-manufactured cradle made, they are available from the states, I have one but it is poorly made, and I have heard they aren't an exact fit, as yet I haven't fitted mine, there have been rumours of various people re-manufacturing the brackets and doing a proper job of it, but as yet no one has (hence why I have the washers)

also when I fitted my box, I didn't have any issues with it raising and I didn't swap the nose cone. you do need to change the CV joints though.

I have done about 2k miles with no issues at all.

another note, I am in the processes of having a 2.1L motor built so will be fitting the cradle, albe it remade to make sure it does the job properly.

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Cheers

So if the manufactured cradles don't fit has anyone started making ones that do? Must be a simple way?

Any chance of some detailed pics of the one you have?

Thanks in advance

Ref gearbox raise, anyone with any details? Cheers, Nick

 

[sparkywig]

Have a word with gadget, he's done this conversion.
I think if you do a search you may find his wise words somewhere on here.

 

[sparkywig]

Here you go Nick.

"I thought Id come on here and Post Up , Ive laughed at some of the comments of the '' Experts ''........

1) You DONT NEED a kit shipped in from the USA with new driveshafts etc as Its uneccesary and expensive and TBH The big front bracket doesnt fit well or properly ( I have checked on one fitted to a Uk bus and it has had to modified to line up the gearbox properly )

2) As Axl has done you can use the original bracket BUT instead of washers packing it out I have trimmed away more of the original early bay bracket ( In stead of a small V like Axels you make a larger U shape ) This then enables you to mount the original early bay frt steel bracket to the front of your new 1302/3S box onto the original factory mounts
NOTE : I had to redrill the two front mounting holes on the very front of the Early bay gearbox bracket to line up with the original early bay frt gearbox rubber mount as mounting the bracket to the gearbox face instead of spacing it off moves the bracket backwards by 20mm

3) For the record its best to fit a 68 to 71 early beetle nose cone to the front of your new 03 box ( 02 boxes had them as standard ) This gives you a flatter profile to bolt your bay front gearbox bracket too

4) You CAN USE standard bus drives shafts as there the correct length and more importantly Original German parts not shit imported from Mexico.......

5) You CAN use standard beetle inner Cv joints ( Get good quality German ones NOT repro shit ) All you have to do is undo the circlip holding the original bus CV joint on slid it off making sure the spring washer is still on the driveshaft and then slide the new beetle one back on again ( Yes they will take the power and strain that a bus requires ) and refit the original circlip

6) You can use one of Axls bowden tube extenders , I personally modified the original beetle bracket and bus bracket together to make it all fit and used a longer beetle bowden tube

7) I modified the length of the front gear linkage thats above the front axle by I think 26mm by adding a section of tubing but Axls idea is just as good

Everybody do your research and do it this way, and STAY AWAY from unscruplous traders who have never even done this conversion themselves YET are trying to sell it off to the public at grossly inflated prices and its not even been Road tested , Yet alone finished

9) Finally I did this conversion 11 years ago when '' Experts '' said it couldnt be done and I have put over 40,000 miles on it and if You've ever convoyed with me You'll no I dont hang around

Ive used genuine german parts and have been very successful with it

As You were "

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Cheers Wig

 

[Rob b]

When I did this with my bus when using beetle inner cv's I had to get a washer machined up that was 3mm thick as it seemed the cv was a tiny bit narrower an the cv was a little sloppy on the shaft


Rob

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Cheers Rob, I read on one thread about using Mk2 Golf CV's? Hence all the questions I suppose. So much info on so many threads but couldn't find it all on one thread.

 

[Rob b]

That's the thing it's been done so my different ways as there is no right or wrong way you just have to feel your way in get all the parts you need an get to work to much reading of topic isn't always a good thing

Rob

 

[Nick-Rackham]

You're right there! too much reading!!

OK, thinking about a gearbox and engine raise I'm looking at maybe a split type cradle and horns for a rear gearbox mount, split bus nose cone and hockey stick (but not sure which one to use) and then dispensing with the rear engine bar!

Sound about right?

 

[hogseye]

my van is long gone but i didn't buy any fancy crap to fit a 1303s box in my bay, just used bug inner cv's on the bus drive shafts and modified the og bus front mount bracket so it fitted the flat front of the box and mounted to the og gearbox mount on van....sorted done thousands of miles all around uk and europe with no probs

 

[sackmcgannay]

Can anyone clear this up for me - when fitting a 1303 box to an eb.... do you get 2" more clearance under the box - and therefore the whole engine is also 2" higher to compensate???????
I know the drive shaft outputs are higher thatn a standard 1600 box but do i get 2" extra clearance without having to move up the fuel tank shelf???

obviously some work will have to be done to make the rear vallance/ seal fit for engine + plus the side skirt bits - shouldn't be too hard to unpick and raise up.

some help before tommo much appreciated - dont want to move the fuel tank shelf up if i dont need to!


thanks :mrgreen:

 

[hogseye]

Don't need to alter anything. I only had a 1641 in my van so wasn't racing it or anything, I just modified the front mount abit used bug inner cv's bus drive shafts didn't bother extending the clutch outer tube thing just altered bracket, didn't need to extend gear shift it fitted and changed fine ( berg shifter if that makes a difference tho). Bolted engine and box in as normal (used bus front mount on bug nose cone fitted fine) if box does sit higher its not by much as I had a webber carb ontop of my engine and that fitted in bay. Once sitting on deck with interior in drive shafts sat just right, done thousands of miles never failed or caused a problem. Bolt it all in have a look it doesn't take long u can always pull it out again if something needs tweaking