Bay-low71
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Give Matt Cooper a ring at Eurocarb or drop him an email. [email protected]
He was a great help when setting up my 34ICT's. Ben
He was a great help when setting up my 34ICT's. Ben
1776 build - questions
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Zcat7
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Thanks for that Bay-low71. I spoke to Kaddie Shack in the end and have ordered new mains, idle and venturis from them so should be fitting these in a few weeks. Those guys really know their Solex 40s.
Here's a vid of the engine running. It's ticking over fast to run the new cam and tappets in.
Will be adjusting the tappets and changing the oil before refitting it to the bus. New fuel lines and filter on the way too.
Here's a vid of the engine running. It's ticking over fast to run the new cam and tappets in.
Will be adjusting the tappets and changing the oil before refitting it to the bus. New fuel lines and filter on the way too.
Zcat7
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So, to bring things up to date and a couple more questions...
I came back from a recent trip to the US with new venturis, main jets and idle jets for my Kadron 40s courtesy of Kaddie Shack. I installed them all along with new fuel lines, fuel filter and air cleaners. While doing this I happened to notice how bad the manifiold bore alignment was as it joins the head so I ended up adding/removing about 5-6mm of metal to get the bores in line .
The engine started after a a bit of fiddling then I got the mixture, idle and balancing sorted and it ticks over nice. 750 rpm and you can count every beat (it's come up a lot louder in this configuration; sounds like a Spitfire!). The only thing I notice is that there is a slight hesitance and a mild vibration around 1600 rpm if you are in a high gear or just pulling away. Admittedly the engine is under load in these conditions and so I wondered if this could just be the nature of the Engle 100 cam or maybe timing (which I set "by hand" as I had trouble starting it at one point due to kickback and so retarded it a bit). What do you think? If I open the throttle more the vibration dissappears and it just pulls away strongly.
The other question I have is distributor choice. I currently run a 009 with Petronix and it has served me well but I tapped one of the carbs for a vaccum takeoff and have a 034 (?) SVDA dizzy that I could drop in; what's the smart thinking on this?
Neil
I came back from a recent trip to the US with new venturis, main jets and idle jets for my Kadron 40s courtesy of Kaddie Shack. I installed them all along with new fuel lines, fuel filter and air cleaners. While doing this I happened to notice how bad the manifiold bore alignment was as it joins the head so I ended up adding/removing about 5-6mm of metal to get the bores in line .
The engine started after a a bit of fiddling then I got the mixture, idle and balancing sorted and it ticks over nice. 750 rpm and you can count every beat (it's come up a lot louder in this configuration; sounds like a Spitfire!). The only thing I notice is that there is a slight hesitance and a mild vibration around 1600 rpm if you are in a high gear or just pulling away. Admittedly the engine is under load in these conditions and so I wondered if this could just be the nature of the Engle 100 cam or maybe timing (which I set "by hand" as I had trouble starting it at one point due to kickback and so retarded it a bit). What do you think? If I open the throttle more the vibration dissappears and it just pulls away strongly.
The other question I have is distributor choice. I currently run a 009 with Petronix and it has served me well but I tapped one of the carbs for a vaccum takeoff and have a 034 (?) SVDA dizzy that I could drop in; what's the smart thinking on this?
Neil
Neil,
Did you frequent Blatchat?
Could be the 009 flat spot. I run a Megajolt so can set the advance as I like. The svda may help you with the flatspot. Not sure about the vibration though.
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Did you frequent Blatchat?
Could be the 009 flat spot. I run a Megajolt so can set the advance as I like. The svda may help you with the flatspot. Not sure about the vibration though.
Sent from my GX64 SatCom phone using Tapatalk
If I were you, I'd set the timing up first (max advance of around 28 to 30 degrees btdc) and see how it runs then (carbs may need to be adjusted again after). If you still have the hesitation after that try adjusting the accelerator pump in each carb to give a little more squirt.
Check the timing at 3500 rpm. Check the idles are wound both the same on each side if you dobt have afr meter then Check the balance of the carbs at 2200 rpm.
If this is within ±2mg then I'd consider the flat spot. However my experience with the flat spot is just that and not a vibe.
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If this is within ±2mg then I'd consider the flat spot. However my experience with the flat spot is just that and not a vibe.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Zcat7
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OK, so I've adjusted the timing and it was way off. Feels even stronger now but still has the mild vibration, albeit not nearly so bad as I pull away.
I found this on The Samba
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452961
I think that it's definitely worth me investigating how everything is firing as it does have that "loping" feel when I hold it around the 1600 revs mark (strange as tickover was so smooth...). Reckon I'll check compression, tappets, reset the carbs for mixture, and maybe some new plugs, cap, rotor arm and leads.
If that doesn't work then maybe the flywheel trick might be in order..? One thing I notice is that the clutch cover doesn't have an orientation spigot on the flywheel, is this normal? It means that the chances of getting me ever fitting in the same place is zero unless I mark it (which I didn't!). Ironically I did mark the flywheel position on the crank but that has different pistons on the assembly now so I guess that any balance there was prior to the rebuild.
I found this on The Samba
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452961
I think that it's definitely worth me investigating how everything is firing as it does have that "loping" feel when I hold it around the 1600 revs mark (strange as tickover was so smooth...). Reckon I'll check compression, tappets, reset the carbs for mixture, and maybe some new plugs, cap, rotor arm and leads.
If that doesn't work then maybe the flywheel trick might be in order..? One thing I notice is that the clutch cover doesn't have an orientation spigot on the flywheel, is this normal? It means that the chances of getting me ever fitting in the same place is zero unless I mark it (which I didn't!). Ironically I did mark the flywheel position on the crank but that has different pistons on the assembly now so I guess that any balance there was prior to the rebuild.
