1968 RHD Rot Box

[smalltime_hillbilly]

thanks man, hopefully be getting warmer soon so can get more done at nights :lol:

 

[wallyvan]

mate, where did you get the b pillar from please?
ta!

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

alan schofields mate

 

[T2 Brinky]

great to you u saving it

all the best with the build

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

Been a while! not bothered uploading much recently but ive got some good updates!

Front panel is on and semi smoothed... got some heat warpage but i kinda like it, looks like fake beauty marks haha


found a massive bargain on ebay...


maybe the biggest update.. tubs have been fitted! such a great fit i love them, front is actually starting to take shape now!

 

[gas1man]

Only good things to say about this build .........then I saw it??????????????
The thing with the fluffy tail or is it ???????? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Loving the work good job and keep it up and at this rate you will be joining us camping in the summer.

J & P

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

haha yeah its my lucky ******** :lol: :lol: :lol: if only! just a keyring

Only good things to say about this build .........then I saw it??????????????
The thing with the fluffy tail or is it ???????? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Loving the work good job and keep it up and at this rate you will be joining us camping in the summer.

J & P

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

not had much time recently thanks to half term, managed to get a nights work mid week though so here goes another painful update..

A pillars! not had much luck tracing new ones especially since the LH side needs the corner roof too, people arnt so keen to cut into nice roofs just for a small corner understandably, however managed to get some a pillar cuts of ebay and started on the RH side. forgive my welding skills :roll:






just needs grinding and priming, did weld another strip behind between the outer and inner layer as the middle layer was looking a bit sorry for itself...

picked up a good sliding door the other day and tried that on, did shut thanks to it smashing into the b pillar which i hope is because i had the wrong roller on the bottom horizontal u bend, got that and a retainer on order from Al S..
and after months of searching i finally found a period correct speedo which wasnt over priced like hell! literally a 5 min walk from my house and only paid £50 :msn4:





then theres the arse about face with mounting the seats after the tubs.. i mocked up some 50mm raisers which look ugly as f but looking around its the best way and everyone else seems to have sorted it the same, hopefully after its fully welded and seemed/painted etc might look a little better.. didnt end up hitting my head on the roof either which was nice. :lol:




hopefully will find a passenger seat mount at dubfreeze at the weekend so can have a go at that seat. maybe.

 

[gninnam]

Slowly but surely.
To make welding easier (I know its difficult) but try to make sure the gap between the original and new metal is around 1mm - anything less will introduce warp and anything more just make it difficult to bridge gaps etc (sure you know this already!)

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

its slowly getting better, providing i keep the gap uniform like you say, it seems to be the welds that youll never see i can do nice then the obvious ones go Pete tong and i spend twice the time neatening them up

 

[gninnam]

.... then the obvious ones go Pete tong and i spend twice the time neatening them up

:lol: So true

 

[67panel]

C post . just started my 68 and have a NOS offside side panel that's complete with post so have the old one that just needs bottom remaking. Free to a good home but you will have to collect Worcester.Thought my bus was rough but---------

 

[67panel]

think I miss read your thread . cracking job anyway

 

[atafonso]

How`s this resto going? I am following it :mrgreen:

Abel

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

Hey all.... I should probably apologise for the lack of any update since Feb... I forgot my password and basically lost interest in uploading pics overnight... bus have moved on BIG TIME since my last post, I won't bore with all the details but let the pictures do the talking...at this point now its on waiting on rear brakes, clutch, cables, fuel tank and engine then its ready to go!
trying to remember what I've done..
both rear corners
engine hanger
rear roof section
rear chassis notch
both cills
new crossmembers
sliding door rebuilt
both rear window channels
all windows fitted
restored the original wiring loom
new front brakes/hubs/backing plates
most of the interior...

ill start adding to this build again..promise!

 

[gninnam]

Great to see you back and the pictures are speaking many words

 

[T2 Brinky]

As a few have said massive respect for taking this on !

good on you and best of luck

 

[67panel]

A lot worse than mine but did have to replace load floor due to very poor repairs . Well done on a BIG project . Have to wait for warmer times to paint mine but might be out late summer hopefully.

 

[smalltime_hillbilly]

Okay so solved...almost. ended up buying the scofields cylinder, with the twin outputs for front brakes... on there website it says fits 68 onwards LH or RH but beware that early early chassis its a bit more of a ball ache.. basically you won't be able to fit switches to the cylinder.. AT ALL.. chassis rail just won't allow it.. I've had to blank them off and hope that moving my switch down the line will do the trick.. not sure if it'll work yet as I haven't bled it.. I'm sure someone will shed some light ( or tear me a new one )

 

[cunning plan]

Okay so solved...almost. ended up buying the scofields cylinder, with the twin outputs for front brakes...

Good choice arty0021:

on there website it says fits 68 onwards LH or RH but beware that early early chassis its a bit more of a ball ache.. basically you won't be able to fit switches to the cylinder.. AT ALL.. chassis rail just won't allow it.. I've had to blank them off and hope that moving my switch down the line will do the trick.. not sure if it'll work yet as I haven't bled it.. I'm sure someone will shed some light ( or tear me a new one )

I found the same issue, here was my solution:

None of the pipes are touching the chassis and I've added little rubber 'buffers / rests' to the top of the master cylinder just incase they vibrate against it. Although it annoys me that this is a reconditioned master cylinder that has not had any road use and it has surface rust! :roll: I'll have to give it a touch up, add it to the list!! :?

I have the rubber boots / covers for the sensors to protect them a bit, I am also thinking of adding some kind of removable cover over the whole master cylinder. opcorn: