68 Deluxe - Back to full height

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Not much of interest tonight - I had to catch up the other side. This was quick and easy as I could use the first side for templates.

All you have to do is draw around the part, cut it out with a jig-saw about 2mm bigger, clamp the good one to it and follow it round with the router. I was starting to feel the arms were a bit high even though they aren't as high as the back so I chucked some cushions on for a better idea.

DSCF3905.jpg


I think it's going to be ok. :)
 
Here's how we steam the wood in the Zed Foundation Laboratories. Highly technical. :)

DSCF3912.jpg


After one kettle full, I wound the vice in a couple of inches and did another kettle. Then I dried it from outside with an electric paint stripper gun - the old traditional methods are the best. :) I think the last process was actually what did it.

Another one made and all the rounded supports ready for the rear ones. I made all the joints much neater on this lid - I may have to re-make the first scruffy one, but I'll see how I feel after the others are done.
DSCF3916.jpg
 
wowsers youve been busy.

Been a while since i checked out your thread and a whole lot has changed. Liking the new rear seat setup, whoever sits there will feel like royalty sitting in that. Getting to cold for working outside for me now, cant wait to get the bus in my sisterws garage so a can start to tinker again.

Keep up the good work matey :)
 
Great Stuff mate!!! :mrgreen: I don`t quite understand how you can justify throwing all that amount of money on tools and equipment, that must be costing you an absolute fortune :shock: :shock: I mean , that fantastic wood steaming set up must have cost Zillions and Zillions, :lol: :lol: :lol: I just love it when you can puzzle something out and cobble a few bits together and produce things like you are :D

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,, Great work as standard on this thread :mrgreen: 8) 8) :mrgreen:
 
I've got this steaming game off to a tee now. 8) Here's how it works in case anyone fancies a go.
The steam from the kettle soaks into the wood eventually, but it doesn't do the job as it doesn't get it hot enough.
When it's heated with the paint stripper gun (gets too hot to touch) the wood goes soft at first while it's sodden.
Then the water is steamed out leaving a dry bent piece of ply.
I'd guess 20 mins of steam then 5-10 mins of. drying - keep going until no more steam comes out of the wooden tunnel

The last of the four I did was bent to much so I had to force it straighter over it's frame so this really does work well. You need to bend it just a bit more than you want to end up with.

Here's the 4 lids balanced roughly in place. Boaty?
DSCF3920.jpg
 
The bed front was looking rather blank and silly, but I had in mind what I'll be doing with it.
Starting with the arms. These will have three drawers in one side and two on the other, with a false drawer under for Eber outlet and the controls maybe.
So start with some holes. I'm thinking best not to get chunky in a small place - I often see heavy stuff designed for houses used in buses, but even the smallest Ogee architrave looks bulky. With this in mind I'm leaving very small margins around the drawer fronts.
DSCF3923.jpg


I know, I know - I could have made life easier and had square drawers in square sofa arms, but that wouldn't have style. :roll: Also it's a bit odd having the tops of the upper drawers smaller than their bases - this isn't going to be ultra practical but that's not the main point of this interior - I'll probably end up with a toothbrush in the top drawer and the rest filled with lagers anyway.
Here's the drawers. I made the drawer fronts from the pieces routed out from the bed front then added a protruding bead to the edge to fill the gap left by the router, make it less obvious if the drawer fronts don't end up exactly flush with the panel, but mainly to carry on the oak trim theme.
DSCF3924.jpg


I hope you like. :)
 
Brilliant,unique, clever beggar :lol: love it
Can't wait to see it finished
I made an arse of cuttin down a buddy seat to fit my portaloo in ! :oops:
Very jealous of your skills, keep it up bud.
 
PIEMAN said:
Brilliant,unique, clever beggar :lol: love it
Can't wait to see it finished
I made an arse of cuttin down a buddy seat to fit my portaloo in ! :oops:
Very jealous of your skills, keep it up bud.
It's easy enough if you give it due time - this little lot has taken a fair while and there's more to go. :)
 
I was blummin annoyed with myself for forgetting the camera memory card so I swang past on my way back from a hospital visit and took a pic + bought some samples home to try waxing/staining on. Here she is then - I'm thinking I may have "gone off on one" now I look at it - I like it, but it seems maybe a bit too odd. Someone suggested casting couch. :lol: :msn4:
DSCF3926.jpg
 
It looks great, always good to see something different from the norm! Cant wait to see it fitted 8)
 
ZedBed said:
I was blummin annoyed with myself for forgetting the camera memory card so I swang past on my way back from a hospital visit and took a pic + bought some samples home to try waxing/staining on. Here she is then - I'm thinking I may have "gone off on one" now I look at it - I like it, but it seems maybe a bit too odd. Someone suggested casting couch. :lol: :msn4:
DSCF3926.jpg


8) sweet
 
Thanks 71dormy. :) Bit of a brain-ache for a non-joiner though I think. :lol:

So how much clearence around the drawer runners? Wouldn't want tight or loose wobbly drawers would you? And how to make them? I'm such a twit I only left 15mm between the sides of the drawers and the ply side of the seat base so it had to be something to fit in there and have some clearence as well. I settled on letting some hardwood tongues into the sides of the drawers and making some hardwood slotted runners for the carcase.
I long ago realised I'd have to make this lot up out of the van and that with both sides done I wouldn't get it back in, so I picked my spot and cut off one side to play with and followed my nose.
DSCF3944.jpg


Real working drawers...
DSCF3943.jpg


The runners - a bit charred by the grinder. :lol: I'll have to tidy up those drawer openings...
DSCF3945.jpg


But as I sit here 12 miles away looking at these pictures while the glue dries, I realise I've made a booboo. I meant to fix the rear lower frame further towards the camera. Oops. :(
DSCF3946.jpg
 
5 working drawers...Ta-daaaa!
DSCF3948.jpg


That's where they stop when you push them in but got to work out how to stop them coming right out and also flying out if I slam on the brakes. And I need to decide on handles of course. Maybe there's something that will do all these jobs and look good. Something that looks old style not modern.

I got some piano hinge for the lids - really cheap - £1 a metre. I'm kicking myself again thinking how I helped someone smash up a heap of damp rat infested pianos not so long ago - they always have good quality hinges. Bah! I was put off by all the screws, but then again now I know I would have used the lids as well - that would have been cool. :(

cad1.jpg
 
A little bit further today.

I got some more oak to mount the lids on with the piano hinges. I did one side this afternoon and as it's nearly Christmas I'll down tools tomorrow and do the other. The plank needs trimming to the bus contour. It's plough-groove and tongued into the end panels and sits on the cut-out on the divider. Eventually the end panels and the divider will get a trim of some sort. Oak? Ali? Haven't made up my mind. :)
DSCF3954.jpg


In case you're wondering, I had to have a wide plank instead of a deeper lid for two reasons. Firstly so it has room to open past it's centre of gravity and hold itself open.
 
Had a thought about your units the other day...

Assuming you are putting curtains in there, you could route a groove in the top of the units where you could run a second curtain track. Reckon it'd look pretty sweet. *shrug*
 

Latest posts

Top