71 Sierra Yellow, OG paint refresh

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Thanks for the replies. Its been a ton of work. I've been a bit concerned with how close the tie (track) rods are to the frame. So I've decided to go with a different approach and use chromoly heim joints. All of these parts are stronger than stock. This is stuff that the 4x4 guys use on rock crawlers. By going this route I can mount my tie rods to the bottom of the spindle arm giving me tons of clearance. Not cheap but I'd rather do it right. I ended up having to buy a weird size drill bit and a reamer for only four holes. The new tie rods them selves were backordered so I would go more into depth on the conversion when they arrive and I can take pics.





I also spent my whole morning driving around looking for new vacuum hose for the brake booster. You can't use regular braided hose as it collapses from the vacuum.



New rear apron seal on as well.



Apron and decklid installed along with a new hatch seal, hinge seals and rear plate light



I also installed the plates the last owner sent me in the mail a while back. I had asked if they had any old photos of the bus and this is what they sent. I purchased it out of Eastern Oregon but the bus is originally from California.

Back to work tomorrow morning so only a few hours each night for the next few days
 
Sorry to bug you sir any chance for those side maker dimensions and positioning. Bus is looking ace by the way. A really beautiful example of quality work, a pleasure to read.
 
Nothing crazy tonight. I assembled the rear hub assemblies and started to mount them. A word of advice is to leave the stub axles in the freezer for a few days. It allows it to slide through the inner bearing with ease.
 
squareweave said:
Thanks for the replies. Its been a ton of work. I've been a bit concerned with how close the tie (track) rods are to the frame. So I've decided to go with a different approach and use chromoly heim joints. All of these parts are stronger than stock. This is stuff that the 4x4 guys use on rock crawlers. By going this route I can mount my tie rods to the bottom of the spindle arm giving me tons of clearance. Not cheap but I'd rather do it right. I ended up having to buy a weird size drill bit and a reamer for only four holes. The new tie rods them selves were backordered so I would go more into depth on the conversion when they arrive and I can take pics.




Nice to use heim joints 8) i'm goint to use them also with these on the spindels ;)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

Witch size of heim joints your using?

Keep up the good work love this bus.
 
mychatype3 said:
squareweave said:
Thanks for the replies. Its been a ton of work. I've been a bit concerned with how close the tie (track) rods are to the frame. So I've decided to go with a different approach and use chromoly heim joints. All of these parts are stronger than stock. This is stuff that the 4x4 guys use on rock crawlers. By going this route I can mount my tie rods to the bottom of the spindle arm giving me tons of clearance. Not cheap but I'd rather do it right. I ended up having to buy a weird size drill bit and a reamer for only four holes. The new tie rods them selves were backordered so I would go more into depth on the conversion when they arrive and I can take pics.



Nice to use heim joints 8) i'm goint to use them also with these on the spindels ;)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

Witch size of heim joints your using?

Keep up the good work love this bus.

I'm using 5/8" heim joints. I'm going with the strait bolt because I can then mount the arm on the bottom. Can you reverse taper the spindle arms with the size of taper the adapters from Speedway have? If not they wouldn't improve clearance I don't think.. I mocked up my set up tonight and it will work beautifully. Lots of clearance from the frame. Ill get pics tomorrow.
 
squareweave said:
I'm using 5/8" heim joints. I'm going with the strait bolt because I can then mount the arm on the bottom. Can you reverse taper the spindle arms with the size of taper the adapters from Speedway have? If not they wouldn't improve clearance I don't think.. I mocked up my set up tonight and it will work beautifully. Lots of clearance from the frame. Ill get pics tomorrow.

Cool looking forward to the photo's. You run dropped spindels aren't they reversed taperd?
 
Short post as I'm heading to bed. Lots done recently, rear is together aside from axles, front brakes and hubs are done, brakes are bled, new tie rods are powedercoated and on, just awaiting a smaller spacer. "The Junker" is back on 4 wheels (first time since last October).

Pics:
















Rear bumper is just hanging there and not fitted
 
Nice stance, sir. Did you paint your spring plates. I ask because I'm thinking of doing mine before fitting but wondered if the paint might cause issues when tightening everything up?

Have to say your standard of finish is a real bench mark for us all to achieve, much respect.
 
Lee C said:
8)
The roof bars staying???

No, I bought them for my wife's 64 squareback so she can put a paddle board on it. I put them on the bus when I got them last fall and still sitting on there. Im not a big fan of roof racks but I did get this VWOA rack recently to haul swap meet stuff home with. I just picked up some clamps for it the other day so its good to go.






Buss69 said:
Nice stance, sir. Did you paint your spring plates. I ask because I'm thinking of doing mine before fitting but wondered if the paint might cause issues when tightening everything up?

Have to say your standard of finish is a real bench mark for us all to achieve, much respect.

Thanks for the kind words. I WILL get you those measurements for the markers. As for the spring plates, I have as much of the suspension powder coated as I could including the spring plates. I am lucky enough to have a top notch VW guy that does most of the powder coating for us guys around here and he knows where to and where not to coat. My sunroof bus has the spring plates powdercoated and it rides like a Caddilac and no binding. With the adjustable ones you just have to make sure that you don't powdercoat where they sleeve into each other. Mine seem ok, but I haven't driven it yet
 
mychatype3 said:

Nice looking good, did you made new tie rod arms to work with the u-joints?

The mounting holes in the pitman arm and spindles was drilled and reamed to fit the new mounting bolt. Same spindles. These are 5/8" heim joints and the diameter of the new tie rods is 7/8", so nice and strong.
 
If I win the lottery you sir are going to be looking for a new project!!!!!
I love this bus.

J & P
:D :D :D
 
So, slow updates because I've been in the garage working. I got the van running last weekend, got all of the wiring sorted (had a problem with two faulty BRAND NEW brake switches). Wet sanded the whole bus yesterday. Polished the rear today and I mounted the bumpers tonight. Driving it for a wheel alignment tomorrow night (probably windsheild-less) :shock: Not a ton of pics, but here are a couple.



All real Hella lenses (side markers mounted the correct way) ;)

 
Axles are in, tail pipe and bumpers mounted and took it for its maiden voyage to get a wheel alignment. I am lucky enough to have a killer alignment shop in the burbs. They were super swamped with work but as always Jason at Dale's Alignment stepped up and offered to do it after hours. He's a fussy bugger and he nailed it. Rear is a mirror image of each other as well as setting up the front to perfect specs. He was able to do the rear properly and with his computerized machine by a matter of mm on the rear. The alignment heads just fit. Its nice to know i wont be going through a set of tires every summer.



Real VW tail pipe clamp, they're about 2 a heavy as a new repro that bend when you try to mount




Drove there and back with no windsheild, thank god for warm summer nights!!

 

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