71 T2 electrics problem :(

[Headzup]

Our 1971 T2 has been off the road since August with an electrical problem which I was hoping a friend with VW Campervan experience and knowledge was going to fix over the winter.
Unfortunately he's been unable to look at it for a number of reasons, so now I need to look at my options - any help,or advice is truly appreciated.

My friend thinks he's identified that it's a faulty/broken wire from the coil to the firewall..??

Before I look to replace the wire or wires, would anyone be able to provide a picture and descriptions (or a working link that shows these) of where the wires that come off the coil go too?
I'm looking (with the help of an auto electrician!) to ensure it is the wiring that is indeed at fault initially. If that's all fine, then will look at the other potential causes of not starting.

So a picture and description of a working example would enable us to ensure everything is correctly attached, then track the wires back through to the dashboard etc...

Again, thanks in advance.

 

[Tofufi]

I found that online, does that help?

Your bus may not have the reversing lights.

Full wiring diagrams can be found here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What is the actual problem? With a break in that wire, I'd expect it to turn over but not fire at all? This could be caused by other issues though.

 

[89Rallye]

As above what's your actual fault?

 

[Headzup]

Thanks for the replies.
Yes it turns over but doesn't start.
I believe there are 8 wires off the coil, but not sure if they were all connected in the correct way?
The guy who checked it out last night said it is a process of elimination and wanted to start with the wires/wiring - as this is what the other guy had advised he thought was the issue.

Basically when we were driving it last (Aug '13) it kept losing acceleration /stuttering around 45-50 mph for a second, but would then pick up and be fine - it was quite intermittent...
Then coming home from a mechanics (for a CV joint fix) it had a few 'stutters' and was then OK, but finally had a loss of acceleration and then wouldn't start again.
Low-loader got it home and that's where we are now.

 

[Happystamps]

Could you post up a picture of your engine bay? then we can tell you which wires you need to keep and what they need to be connected to etc.
Since there are obviously a few add-ons on your coil, I think best way forward might be to simplify it a bit, and then add the other stuff back on.

 

[cyberdyne systems]

Also sounds like a fuel issue, anyway it will be easy for someone with a multimeter to check you have 12v to the coil. If it has then check the spark at one of the plugs and if thats ok check there is fuel present. The points in the distributor also affect the coil working so these need to be checked also.

 

[Headzup]

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3newdz0xgsylnec/T1wVrRL2PS
Hopefully the link takes you to my Dropbox folder.
There are 4 pictures; the far shot doesn't show too much but that's the whole engine compartment.
The other 3 photos are of the coil from different angles - back in August before trying to find out the problem. Again, sorry not sure these show you enough..?

 

[bigdaz]

Could be fuel or electrics
Try hotwiring with a lead straight from the battery + telminal to the coil .if it fires this will at least tell you if its a feed problem.
Could be a knackered ignition switch this is quite common.
The intermittent loss of power could be the coil breaking down or condenser overheating

 

[dustrat]

You seem to have a lot of extra wires to coil. Disconnect all wires apart from to distributor. With ignition on use test lamp or multimeter and find live wire out of ones you have disconected. Place that wire on opposite side of coil to dizzy feed and also connect wire that goes to solonoid ( which cuts off fuel ) and choke.When you connect this wire you should hear a click from solonoid. Turn engine over with a plug lead disconnected with a spare spark plug earthed against engine and you should get a spark.If you dont get a spark and have a live feed to coil, check to see you are getting a spark at points. If not check to see if points are opening .If they are and still no spark you will have to eleminate condensor or coil. If you havent got a live wire you will have trace back which wire goes to ignition switch.and if broken,which is not uncommon on older vehicles, repair or replace. A get me home idea if ignition feed is broken is to connect a wire from positive battery feed to coil, but to stop engine you will have to disconnect

 

[Headzup]

Thanks guys, will work through the suggestions over the weekend (all being well) and come back with update.
Much appreciated!!

 

[Headzup]

Managed to get a quick look over it with my friend over the weekend.
Not sorted yet, but narrowing down the issue, hopeful of fixing by end of the month fingers crossed!!

 

[71Westy]

Instead of a feed from the battery, you can take a lead from the nearby sidelight - that way you can switch off with the lights! Just a temporary fix of course.

There is a scenario with a fault in the ignition switch that removes the live feed to the coil just when the starter motor is turning. Then when you release the key, the live comes back, so it's a pain to diagnose. The above bodge would help with that - and you can switch off the lights once the engine is running....

Just a thought.

Whereabouts are you, btw?

Nick

 

[pilipala]

Ignition Switch and Loom for VW Beetle 1970-1971 and VW T2 Bay 1970-1974


i had the same problem and it was this ...

 

[Headzup]

Finally got it sorted this weekend through a helpful mechanic in Binfield/Hurst (near Fox & Sons actually). Took the van on a low loader and turned out it was a faulty 'pick up' in the electronic ignition ???
So pleased it's fixed and up and running, passed MOT today too with no issues (apart from minor oil leak). Will have him back for the a Summer and plan to get some kind of a kitchen/storage unit in, whilst retaining full width R&R.

 

[Happystamps]

Electronic ignition modules do fail from time to time, I know a lot of people keep a spare set of points & a condenser in the glovebox... or if you're feeling flush, a spare module of course.