Advice on upgrading to an Alternator

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Seamus1982

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Hey,

well, I've finally come to the conclusion that I must have fried the genny when I wired the regulator up incorrectly! There is absolutely no voltage coming from it.

So, now that I'll need to replace it, I thought I may as well upgrade to an alternator. I've heard that the engine needs to come out in order to get the genny off and an alternator on, is this the case or can it be done with the engine in? Also, I've heard that some alternators need some casing cut to get them to fit, any advice on this?

Lastly, anyone now of a vw camper specialist in the Winchester area of Hampshire!?

Thanks
sean
 
I use Jason at Dubworks Petersfield. Just done the carbs and push rod tubes on my bus, hopefully he's done a good job.

The recent Keeping Your Bus Alive magazine covered the change to alternator might be worth getting hold of a copy
 
you can fit one with motor in ,but you need to set fan clearance to housing and its best with motor out,dont forget new fuel pump and push rod(alternator one as canted over for clearance,longer push rod needed as well)still when its out you can give it a good clean/paint ect ;) :shock:
 
Ok cheers guys.

Can you suggest the best kit to buy, heritage is cheaper but doesn't include fuel pump, JK includes it all for about £50 more expensive, any one used either?

Sean
 
Having done this myself it can be done with the engine in. I had twin carbs so i only needed to dismanlte the linkage and not take the carb and manifold etc out which i think needs to be done if you have stock set up. My experiences :

I got my kit form Machine 7, great service but there were one or two bits i had trouble with, like the slot for the woodruff key wasn't formed properly so it delayed the fit but they did sort me out. Others on here seem to have had similar issues too with them, so maybe try someone else

As sparkwig says I bought a new fuel pump but the old one did fit so i was a bit mystified why i needed a new one (around £20 plus new shorter (or longer? - can't remember) rod £5ish). I did fit the new one after a while. I guess you need to make sure you actually have an og pump in the first place, or buy a new one (and rod) sale or return if poss

As 67 says, you need to double check the fan shimming is set up right but you can lift out the new alternator in and out easy enough to check it spins and doesn't rub, you'll have arms like popeye after a while

I would suggest you use all of the bits that come with the kit, even though it appears they are exactly the same as some og parts, the fan tin, top pulley. I did fit it originally with the og tin as it was better quality but the fan did rub so they must be marginally different, simlilarly the top pulley, looks the same but I don't know if it is (why sell it with the kit?)

If you need to take your dissy out, which makes it easier and i did, don't turn the engine over at all as the timing goes all out for when you put your dissy back in. Caused me four hours of headaches when trying to start her back up until a helpful neighbour stepped in

You'll need a big socket to get the fan nut off (36mm i think)

I seem to remember you have to loosen off the main fan shroud tinware (2 blots either side) to give you a bit of room to jiggle things about

When re-fitting and tightening tinware etc up, make sure your cooling flaps open and shut, a link bar on the back moves them which you can reach round to move. Their default position is open i believe as my thermostat is not actually connected but the flaps do not want to be in the closed position

All in all it wasn't too bad a job. I did have the above mentioned guide which did help as it has pics which sort of gives you confidence of what you're looking at, if you know what i mean. The wiring instructions were ok

Hope this helps. Good luck

Al
 
Don't buy the 75amp kit from Heritage.

Its just taken me over 3 weeks to fit mine, including taking it back and having to get additional parts to make it fit (to be fair to Heritage, they have a new supplier for these alternators and they haven't exactly got the design right, and they gave me the extra parts I needed free of charge). You get the Bruck top pulley with the kit (which explode according to a thread in the tech section on VZI).
You have to get additional spacers to space the top pulley from the alternator otherwise it grinds on the alternator.
Other people have had to modify the alternator stand to get it to fit properly.

I bought a 'genuine VW' top pulley, which took 3 sets to find one with a hole that was actually in the middle of the pulley (still doesnt spin straight either)

Its better to have an extra pair of hands when fitting them, and it can be done with the motor in the bus, its just a lot more difficult.

Good luck!
 
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/gen_alt.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

here's a link to speedy jims wiring guide which will help. It really is quite easy and nothing to be worried about, just get your wires the right way around, unlike someone who didn't :roll: :oops:
 
i got the machine 7, 75amp stuff. on the site at £160:

http://www.machine7.com/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

had it fitted in portsmouth by dr vdub. no problems although only done a couple of hundred miles since.
 
Bought all of my kit second hand, its an early type alternator with an external regulator, but it came complete with all the fan and housing, fitted and everything worked 8)
Easier to do with the engine out as you can get round things.
 
Thanks for all the advice!

Just spent the last 5 hours fitting my new mad matz vinyl floor, it's looking sweet!

Spoke to a few vw specialists who have quoted £150 labour for the alternator conversion, I need the van ready for Thursday as leaving for run to the sun so think I might do the dirty and pay someone to do it!

Unless of course, one of the more experienced dubbers than me fancies lending a hand for a few beers or jack daniels in Winchester hants

thanks again.

Will sort a photobucket account and get some photos up soon!

Sean
 
If I wasn't so busy I'd help you out but you could try Scott at SGS Aircooled in curdridge NR Botley. 01489 896488.
 
So Scott is a good trust worthy guy then? I spoke to him earlier in the week, seemed genuine so I think I'll still he van in with him!

Cheers
 
Yes you can trust Scott. Genuine and honest guy. I do most of my own work but I've had him build me a couple of engines as it would take me a lot longer.
 
You might want to keep an eye on the amp output of the alternator, as these are not Bosche, but Chinese, and have been known to drop to single digits within a year. It's a shame Bosch has got too big to care about the air-cooled market as it could have been making its own 75amp ones in Brazil.

Al
 
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