Advice Please - Does the bottom end need rebuidling

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Boff

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Hi - new to this forum and really hoping for some advice....

After years of trying to persuade the better half, I was finally allowed to indulge my lifelong dream last spring, raided my savings, jumped in with both feet and bought a 1971 Dormobile. Needless to say, having no experience whatsoever of aircooled engines, I was a little surprised and more than a little miffed when a smokescreen overtook me on the motorway on the way home.

The engine is 1776cc on the original short block, and I did not know where to start. After a lot of research and grazed knuckles I discovered that it had dropped a valve. With the help of some receipts inherited with the bus, I managed to track down the original engine builder, who was the only person who knew what modifications had been made, and had the top end rebuilt. She has run like a dream and we clocked up 3000 miles around Cornwall and the East Coast and had the best summer ever.

Now to my point. She still runs lovely, pulling strongly, but the crankshaft pulley has now developed movement if you pull it and push it. The movement is visible and probably apx 2-3 mm and clonks. Also, the timing at low revs is eratic, as noticed with timing light. Is the bottom end dying ?

If it is, what is the best thing to do ? Have it stripped down, reground and rebuilt ? Keep driving ?

I would really appreciate any thoughts and advice anyone may be able to offer.
 
check out my story. Engine fine and then bearings go on a new rebuild. Get it checked out. Because if it is is on the way out it could be rebuilt mine was a complete write off, happy with the new engine but wish I knew more.
 
In reply to an earlier request I gave the crankshaft end play tolerences 007mm to 015mm so if you have 2/3mm you have serious problems. The fact the you say you have timing problems confirms that the thrust is badly worn. The chances of your engine going bang are very high. The engine will need stripping down but if as you say there is 3mm end play it is beyone having the crankcase line bored.Strip the engine down and check the seat where the bearing goes,ie the bearing nearest the flywheel. Standard is 22mm.If it is below 20mm you will have to end up getting another new or second hand engine case as I have never come across any supplier having bearings under 20mm thrust size.If you end up having to get a second hand case have it checked out properley before buying. Heritage were doing a good deal on new cases but I dont know if it is still on.Alex on this forum can tell you as he works for Heritage.
Robert
 
End float probably 'feels' worse than it is. even 1mm is quite a clunk (3mm is 30 x the recommended..)
even so for peace of mind you probably need to get it looked at - maybe flywheelhas worked loose.

Good luck..
 
my 1600 sp had a mile of end float, I added a few shims behind the flywheel (bit of a cowboy job) and it has been fine, I have been to Belgium twice and use the van regularly, I am waiting for it to go bang and I am building a replacement.

the choice is yours ;)
 
Problem with bunging a few shims in, is that the play might not necessarily be between the bearing and the flywheel...

When the endfloat gets bad, then it's generally the bearing actually moving in the case, at which point there are two scenarios...

One engine case gets line bored and thrust cut.

Two, the case is so worn, because you did nothing about the endfloat, that it's beyond economical repair and you need a new case!!
 
Regarding the end play the rule of thumb is you should be able to feel it but not see it,

If you can see the pulley moving you have too much,

on the other hand my brothers bus has a mile of end play and he drove it to spa and back with out a hitch, it dose make a bit of a knocking noise now but still runs sweet lol .
 
Thanks guys.

I am going to get it looked at asap.

If the engine does turn out to be beyond repair, what would be the best replacement - a 1641 or a 1776 ?

Ideally need an engine that will be a motorway cruiser, and that is not shy of hills, especially towing a small camping trailer.

Thanks
 
Hey,
I used one of them dial test indicator (DTI) things and I ended up using a metal rule. Worked out to be about 3mm of play on the fly wheel and that was with the origional shims in there.

I worked it out to be about 8 different size shims I will need. Is that too much or am I doing something wrong?

Also when check the end flow the roter arm moves too and I dont think that is right.

Any advice would be great as I want my camper back on the road asap!! :(

cheers
 
Boff said:
Thanks guys.

I am going to get it looked at asap.

If the engine does turn out to be beyond repair, what would be the best replacement - a 1641 or a 1776 ?

Ideally need an engine that will be a motorway cruiser, and that is not shy of hills, especially towing a small camping trailer.

Thanks
1641 and 1776 have different sized barrels and pistons so if you've got decent b&p's at the moment, stick with those. If you get a new case, it'll need boring to accept the 90.5mm (1776cc) b&p's

Steve
 

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