Braided accelerator cable

[Moseley]

Hi folks, it has always struck me that the standard single-strand accelerator cables are a bit of a crap design; they kink easily and are more prone to snapping without warning than a traditional multi-strand cable found on pedal bikes etc. I’m sure I’ve read on here that people have sourced a braided cable as an upgrade - has anyone got any pointers as to where these are being purchased please?

 

[gvee]

They make non-braided accelerator cables?

 

[Moseley]

They make non-braided accelerator cables?

As far as I’m aware, if you buy an accelerator cable from any of the normal vendors that suits a year / steering wheel side etc, the standard offerings are all just a single strand of steel with the relevant ends crimped on. I bought a spare for our old RHD, a spare for our current bus, and the one that is currently fitted, and they’re all the same style.


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[gvee]

I replaced my accelerator cable a couple of years ago and it was braided. Think it was a universal one that you trim down with an end you fit with a grub screw.

 

[K@rlos]

You can get a universal cut to length cable which is braided. That’s all I ever use

 

[gagvanman]

This is the one I fitted to mine:
https://www.justkampers.com/search/result/?q=J10224
Mine is RHD and be aware different lengths for different years.
Also K@rlos is right, you can get universal ones which you cut to size.

 

[Moseley]

Thanks folks. Seems the universal one is the way to go, and I’ll keep the other one I have as a spare in the van. Hopefully that will take out a bit of the play in the pedal due to the kinks.

 

[Moseley]

Well I’ve fed the braided one through today - much happier with the design and the lack of ‘kinking’ compared to the single strand ones.

However, the end is a bit crap, it is more of a hook than an eyelet, and as such is not being fully held by the bolt on the accelerator linkage (Buttys Bits one). Although I’m yet to hook it up to the engine, I’m concerned that if I let off the throttle quickly, any momentary slack in the cable might pop it off the linkage.

Has anyone who fitted one of these tweaked the end - maybe bent the hook so it becomes an eyelet?

 

[ozziedog]

You might have Ninja style reflexes but you ain’t gonna beat a spring no matter how fast you take your foot off. If it’s causing a momentary panic would a blob of silicone or similar non setting stuff stop it from unhooking while your spring catches up with those lightennnnnning actions and reflexes. If you’re gonna squeeze up the hook a bit with some viceys or moley grips maybe have a little practice on the old one first to make sure that you don’t snap it off, shouldn’t really but it might be brittle :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,it would have a femto second to react I’m guessing :mrgreen:

 

[Moseley]

Haha, I have been working on my crouching tiger hidden dragon!

But aside from some lightning reaction speed, the issue I could foresee is that there is a spring at both the carb and pedal end. I might be over-thinking it, but the spring at the pedal end could retract the pedal too quickly and the cable would jump off. I’d rather find a way to make sure it can’t happen, rather than find out it does mid-journey.

I tried a google search to find a more-suitable crimped end hook, but I can’t find anything similar to what would come on the original style ones. Not sure if I’m using the right search terms…


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[K@rlos]

Yup I bend them to fit better in the throttle pedal. Bit of a faff but the quality of the cable out weighs this

 

[Moseley]

Yup I bend them to fit better in the throttle pedal. Bit of a faff but the quality of the cable out weighs this

Just driven it for the first time tonight, the main thing I’ve noticed is the more direct feel, but that was probably related to the kinks that were present in my previous single-strand cable (which I also think are pretty much impossible to avoid introducing when fitting).

So I’m happy with the improvement, however, I’m pretty sure that I can make something that performs better for cheaper. I’m planning on buying a wire rope thimble or a swage eye, and a length of cable to do some experimentation. Not sure how to tackle the engine end, as that needs something similar to the Empi kit that allows for some adjustment as the cable stretches over time. But it’d be nice to have something that cannot have any way of coming off at the pedal end.

I seem to be struggling with the pedal travel vs. cable length. I am missing the little stopper that sits under the pedal, so this may be the issue, but if I clamp the cable with the pedal to the floor and the carbs wide open, when releasing the pedal, the cable is left with enough slack for the hook to easily jump off at the pedal end. If it were an eyelet, this wouldn’t happen, but also, it means there will always be a bit of free-play at the start of the pedal travel, which would be nice to eliminate.

 

[K@rlos]

Ive never used that thing comes for the ends of the Empi kits. I use use a longer bolt in the cable clamp engine end and nip the actual cable.

Had a braided cable on my bus for 10 yrs without issue only changed it because a restored the entire bus :lol: just such a better design, slides in the tube so much smoother than a solid version.

 

[67westy]

I normally adjust my cable the opposite way. So I either wedge the pedal or get a (willing) assistant to hold it up and then pull the cable tight with the carbs closed and clamp it up. Then a quick check to make sure they fully open. I don't have the pedal stop thing either and never had an issue this way.

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[Walt]

Well I’ve fed the braided one through today - much happier with the design and the lack of ‘kinking’ compared to the single strand ones.

However, the end is a bit crap, it is more of a hook than an eyelet, and as such is not being fully held by the bolt on the accelerator linkage (Buttys Bits one). Although I’m yet to hook it up to the engine, I’m concerned that if I let off the throttle quickly, any momentary slack in the cable might pop it off the linkage.

Has anyone who fitted one of these tweaked the end - maybe bent the hook so it becomes an eyelet?

Hi,
I've got a buttys bits throttle kit & fitted a braided throttle cable - like you I replaced my single "threaded" throttle cable;
Can't remember who advised me on this so apologies in advance if I've got it wrong - think it might have been Graham L? Think he was checking my steering & mentioned the new throttle cable (with the hook end) should be slightly slack at the buttys bit.
Like the hook bit should be able to move slightly; think I'd locked it tight so it didn't move. Can't remember why though?

Like I said, this was years ago, so apologies if I've got any if these details wrong.

 

[Moseley]

I normally adjust my cable the opposite way. So I either wedge the pedal or get a (willing) assistant to hold it up and then pull the cable tight with the carbs closed and clamp it up. Then a quick check to make sure they fully open. I don't have the pedal stop thing either and never had an issue this way.

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Interesting, if I do the same, the cable goes tight (carbs fully open) before the pedal hits the floor. I wasn’t sure if this was due to the lack of pedal stop, the type of dual carb linkage I’m using, or a combination of both. Either way, I can’t drive long term with it like that as I’ll end up snapping the cable if I accidentally press too hard on the pedal.


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[Moseley]

Well I’ve fed the braided one through today - much happier with the design and the lack of ‘kinking’ compared to the single strand ones.

However, the end is a bit crap, it is more of a hook than an eyelet, and as such is not being fully held by the bolt on the accelerator linkage (Buttys Bits one). Although I’m yet to hook it up to the engine, I’m concerned that if I let off the throttle quickly, any momentary slack in the cable might pop it off the linkage.

Has anyone who fitted one of these tweaked the end - maybe bent the hook so it becomes an eyelet?

Hi,
I've got a buttys bits throttle kit & fitted a braided throttle cable - like you I replaced my single "threaded" throttle cable;
Can't remember who advised me on this so apologies in advance if I've got it wrong - think it might have been Graham L? Think he was checking my steering & mentioned the new throttle cable (with the hook end) should be slightly slack at the buttys bit.
Like the hook bit should be able to move slightly; think I'd locked it tight so it didn't move. Can't remember why though?

Like I said, this was years ago, so apologies if I've got any if these details wrong.

I think what Graham is referring to is the bolt that holds the cable end at the pedal; that needs to be ever-so-slightly loose to allow the hook to rotate as the pedal is pressed. This is basically my issue - as this hook isn’t clamped tightly, when I release the pedal, the cable has enough slack in it that the hook can jump off.


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[67westy]

I normally adjust my cable the opposite way. So I either wedge the pedal or get a (willing) assistant to hold it up and then pull the cable tight with the carbs closed and clamp it up. Then a quick check to make sure they fully open. I don't have the pedal stop thing either and never had an issue this way.

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Interesting, if I do the same, the cable goes tight (carbs fully open) before the pedal hits the floor. I wasn’t sure if this was due to the lack of pedal stop, the type of dual carb linkage I’m using, or a combination of both. Either way, I can’t drive long term with it like that as I’ll end up snapping the cable if I accidentally press too hard on the pedal.


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That's what mine does, never snapped a cable yet [emoji14] just don't stamp on it

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