Buffing up orginal paint

[Jamie]

I have a 'new' 71 Deluxe with orginal paint and sun bleaching and I want to buff it up and get the best finish that I can.

I've heard that some of the more mainstream products can be a bit harsh on old paint work, so can anyone offer some advice and maybe some products that will suit this project best please?

Thanks

 

[cotswoldiver]

Hi Jamie
Faced exactly the same issues with mine. Still working on it, but worth the effort. But it depends if you are trying to bring the paint back or want to 'seal' the bleached look. Others with the bleached look will give you some pointers I'm sure

Mine didn't have much bleaching it was just tired and not a lot of gloss about so this is what I did.

Some areas I've worked by hand and other times with a DA machine which doesn't get the paint surface as hot as a rotary machine - but again being careful with the pad selection. I also did check the paint depths to see where it was at its worse so had to be very careful where it was even thinner

Claying with Dodo juice Born Slippy lube really helped to pull away a lot of the contaminates and then Dodo Juice Prime Lite to clean up the paint work as it doesn't have any harsh abrasives in it. Dodo juice prime is a great product but it does have abrasives in it whereas the lite version doesn't. Great products Dodo juice and they smell good.

I'm about to try another product called Iron Cut that has had great write ups for really sorting out key areas before you start polishing and waxing - but it stinks to high heaven and again have to be careful just where it used especially where the paint may be already blistering as it could make matters worse.

Because the paint layers are pretty thin you are right most of the specialist polishes and cutting compounds are too harsh and could remove too much paint so I've found another company called Gtechniq http://www.gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/ who makes some pretty amazing products for both polishing and protecting paint and other surfaces. The way water beads off the surface is amazing

Found some other great stuff for the chrome as well if you have much of that to tackle

Part of the secret is only working one or two sections at a time and not rushing it.

Now the real anorak part - Don't undo all the hard work you have done by using a sponge and one bucket when washing it. As all that does is add those horrible swirl marks. Far better to use two buckets and a wash mitt, one with the shampoo in it, the other with clean water to swill your wash mitt in before you put it back in the shampoo bucket and then on the bus - saves an awful lot of fine scratching

Just take your time and then stand back and admire your work ... 8)

 

[Jamie]

Thanks mate, thats brilliant I couldn't have asked for a better reply!

I will check out the products you mention - Dodo etc.

Thanks again - really helpful.

ATB
J.

 

[Jamie]

Oh I forgot to ask, which products from the Gtechniq have you found to be the best? Did you also use their pads?

ATB

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Farecla Fast Track Medium then Glaze to finish. Fast Track is designed to work on old paint, its better than using G3 or G6 Rapid which are really suited to fresh paint thats been flatted. The Glaze is really good for finishing off and has good anti UV properties.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7d4RQYLetQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iePuWVZTBHk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Jamie]

Farecla Fast Track Medium then Glaze to finish. Fast Track is designed to work on old paint, its better than using G3 or G6 Rapid which are really suited to fresh paint thats been flatted. The Glaze is really good for finishing off and has good anti UV properties.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7d4RQYLetQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iePuWVZTBHk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for that Prof - very interesting.

Are you saying you prefer Farecla to the Gtechniq range?

The Dodo is good for the initial prep though yes?

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Well Farecla is used by us in the trade, its tried and tested, all the expensive stuff with all the advertising and bumpf is used by DIYers and we don't have to bother with it.

 

[Jamie]

Well Farecla is used by us in the trade, its tried and tested, all the expensive stuff with all the advertising and bumpf is used by DIYers and we don't have to bother with it.

Thanks mate.

 

[cotswoldiver]

Oh I forgot to ask, which products from the Gtechniq have you found to be the best? Did you also use their pads?

ATB

Can't disagree with Scotty's comments, but for mere diy's mortals like me I found Gtechniq's P1 easy to use and the site's youtube video clips are easy to follow. Found most of this via Detailing World forum as a lot of this stuff you can't find in your average Halfords and there are a few discounts around once you have registered on that site. Plus I like the idea of not having stacks of products. But, like all of these things its practice and working the product correctly. I've used their wool pads which actually work well, but now trying hex logic pads.
Once finished I've got some C1 to try

The other product I really like is their G1 screenclear which lasts well and so much better than rainx, haven't tried G3 which may be better for the generally slower speeds in the rain in the bus, but it doesn't last so long. Oh, and their I1 works on waterproofing the poptop


Just try and see what suits you best, P1 can be used by hand but all of these generally get better results with a polishing machine

 

[Jamie]

Thanks again for your input on this one mate - very helpful.