Cunning Bus Project

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Liking the floor layout idea. Run the build down the right hand side if you are following the original route. The reasoning behind this is because the loom gets much longer at the back due to the nearside lighting. First thing is to run a small cable and route it exactly where you want the new loom to go. Accurately mark and note where there are breakouts, such as reverse light switch, brake light switch and starter etc. Its really worth spending time on this process. I think the key is to make sure your routing is sound. I used a lot of cable ties to hold the cable in place, it's really annoying when the cable moves, when done, cut and dispose (don't leave used ones on the floor, they hurt like hell when you get one in the back or the palm of the hand :? )
Other things to consider. Are you going to re-use the OG fuse box? Are you going to locate it in the original place? All things to think about when planning the initial route.
 
Buss69 said:
Liking the floor layout idea. Run the build down the right hand side if you are following the original route. The reasoning behind this is because the loom gets much longer at the back due to the nearside lighting.

Okay makes sense.

Buss69 said:
First thing is to run a small cable and route it exactly where you want the new loom to go. Accurately mark and note where there are breakouts, such as reverse light switch, brake light switch and starter etc. Its really worth spending time on this process.

Fantastic tip, good point!!

Buss69 said:
I think the key is to make sure your routing is sound. I used a lot of cable ties to hold the cable in place, it's really annoying when the cable moves, when done, cut and dispose (don't leave used ones on the floor, they hurt like hell when you get one in the back or the palm of the hand :? )

Roger that :party0021:

Buss69 said:
Other things to consider. Are you going to re-use the OG fuse box? Are you going to locate it in the original place? All things to think about when planning the initial route.

No, a new, modern fusebox will be used. However, now you ask, I am not entirely sure where I would like to put it. I guess at the front, behind the clip would make sense. :?

Really appreciate the help here :mrgreen:
 
cunning plan said:
No, a new, modern fusebox will be used. However, now you ask, I am not entirely sure where I would like to put it. I guess at the front, behind the clip would make sense. :?

Really appreciate the help here :mrgreen:

OK, work out what you need in terms of all electrical components and then work out the fuse box size. The MTA units I used are pretty good, the different modules allow for a lot of variation. Getting your positioning right now means you can work out the correct cable lengths. The other option is to make the loom longer at the fuse box end and then trim to size when you know the location.

Only put your fuse box where mine is if you want to fight the cable loom behind the washer bottle, I thought I'd left enough loom to allow for this and only just got it to work. I don't mind telling you it was a 5p/ 50p moment! :?
 
Buss69 said:
OK, work out what you need in terms of all electrical components and then work out the fuse box size. The MTA units I used are pretty good, the different modules allow for a lot of variation. Getting your positioning right now means you can work out the correct cable lengths. The other option is to make the loom longer at the fuse box end and then trim to size when you know the location.

Only put your fuse box where mine is if you want to fight the cable loom behind the washer bottle, I thought I'd left enough loom to allow for this and only just got it to work. I don't mind telling you it was a 5p/ 50p moment! :?

Roger that! :party0021:

Update:

• Headlining

Material samples arrived from MegaVanMats to choose for the headlining material.

IMG_20130415_133823.jpg
 
I think I have found the range of gauges I would like to use! :party0021:

Here's the Speedo:

1186_d.jpg


:jerkoff:

Although, they are an American company and do not have distributors in England.

:sign0001:
 
cunning plan said:
Buss69 said:
OK, work out what you need in terms of all electrical components and then work out the fuse box size. The MTA units I used are pretty good, the different modules allow for a lot of variation. Getting your positioning right now means you can work out the correct cable lengths. The other option is to make the loom longer at the fuse box end and then trim to size when you know the location.

Only put your fuse box where mine is if you want to fight the cable loom behind the washer bottle, I thought I'd left enough loom to allow for this and only just got it to work. I don't mind telling you it was a 5p/ 50p moment! :?

Roger that! :party0021:

Update:

• Headlining

Material samples arrived from MegaVanMats to choose for the headlining material.

IMG_20130415_133823.jpg

Mate, have you decided what type of headlining you are going for yet. I've yet to do mine and just can't make up my mind :!:

should it be like original? should I go with one that's fixed to the interior skin of the bus like a modern car?

Oh, decisions, decisions.
 
I'm deffiantly going for something different to stock, probably more of a felt-type material rather than a vinyl.

I am just waiting for delivery of some more samples as I decided that I didn't like any of the first four samples enough to choose one :lol:

Would you like me to put you in touch with Mark at MVM who has my old headlining to make a template from for full-length Bay Window headlining or do you want to wait until you find out how my one turns out? ;)
 
cunning plan said:
I'm deffiantly going for something different to stock, probably more of a felt-type material rather than a vinyl.

I am just waiting for delivery of some more samples as I decided that I didn't like any of the first four samples enough to choose one :lol:

Would you like me to put you in touch with Mark at MVM who has my old headlining to make a template from for full-length Bay Window headlining or do you want to wait until you find out how my one turns out? ;)

Not sure bud, I'm thinking I might try something different. I've got an idea to put some RGB LED light strips in the roof and go a bit mad (Circuit and wiring already in place :lol: ). I wouldn't mind Mark's number though I think I really need to talk to a pro first. I've also got to take out the windows because I want to go round the frames as per original. I'm a little frightened about doing it. The people who put them back in said they used washing up liquid to aid installation! :cry: It's about the worst thing you can do as it has salts in it. If I take them out I'm thinking it might be a bit rotten in there. I keep putting it off. :?
 
Buss69 said:
I wouldn't mind Mark's number though I think I really need to talk to a pro first.

Sure, as above chap on the complement slip :shadey:

Buss69 said:
I've also got to take out the windows because I want to go round the frames as per original.

Yeah, I would not be doing anything to the interior until the bus is back on the road, but as parts of the headlining are fixed in by the windows, you end up having to.

Buss69 said:
I'm a little frightened about doing it. The people who put them back in said they used washing up liquid to aid installation! :cry: It's about the worst thing you can do as it has salts in it. If I take them out I'm thinking it might be a bit rotten in there. I keep putting it off. :?

:roll: Arrhh. The worst thing to use! :x

You never know, it might be fine. You might as well get them out and do it properly.

Are you replacing the rubbers too or reusing the old ones? If the old ones are in good enough condition to keep, preserving them when you take the windows back out will be a challenge. I have read somewhere that wooden pegs are good to use to hold the rubber back as you go around the rim and as they are wooden, they should not damage the frame. :?
 
Hey dude. funny I posted a question some time ago about a dark headliner and thought you should see this to.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7WMFyUzohXo/TSGhVwSmCBI/AAAAAAABfMU/iq5Hmlft1cY/s800/1142809265_ZpRSc-XL-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think it looks pretty good. Gotta be brave to go for a dark one though.

How's that wiring coming along fella?
 
Buss69 said:
Hey dude. funny I posted a question some time ago about a dark headliner and thought you should see this to.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7WMFyUzohXo/TSGhVwSmCBI/AAAAAAABfMU/iq5Hmlft1cY/s800/1142809265_ZpRSc-XL-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think it looks pretty good. Gotta be brave to go for a dark one though.

Yah, it's not bad at all!

Buss69 said:
How's that wiring coming along fella?

Not coming at all right now if I am honest :(
I am still not getting that much time to work on the bus :? When I do, I am kind of in-between the sliding door, lowering spring plates and the wiring :character0036:

I have made a nice rig to fabricate the wiring loom ON though :lol:

WiringMockupRig.jpg



Updates:

The accelerator peddle area was looking crusty, so I sorted that out:

AcceleratorPeddle.jpg


AcceleratorPeddle2.jpg


AcceleratorPeddle3.jpg


I drilled and tapped new holes, then fitted a new peddle, using stainless fixings.

AcceleratorPeddle4.jpg


Steering column off for reconditioning.

SteeringCol.jpg


SteeringCol2.jpg


A bit of a boring colour, but as the column is a big part of the cab-area / interior, I have planned something a little different for it........ ;)

On-to the rear spring plates.

Here I have decided to fit a pair of adjustable rear lowing spring-plates from TransporterHaus.

Here they are from a previous post, I have had them on my shelf for a while:

IMG_20120628_182100.jpg


Apart from having the benefit of being able to adjust the rear ride-height just by turning a bolt, the main reason I wanted to fit these is that I did not fancy doing this every-time I wanted to take the back wheels off!

Springplates.jpg


I will give this a clean up and put some protection paint on it.

Springplates2.jpg


The spring plate had welded itself onto the torsion bar, so I had to heat the spring-plate up and hammer it out :| :character0036:

Springplates3.jpg


Springplates4.jpg


Next to do:
[*] Sliding Door Hinge - Find a replacement or fix the original - Still looking!
[*] Buy components for headlining along with the actual headlining - soon to be fabricated when my buddy has spare time.
[*] Fit Headlining
[*] Wiring Loom diagram
[*] Wiring Loom component purchase
[*] Wiring Loom fabricate
[*] Fit Rear Adjustable Lowering Spring Plates from TransporterHaus
 
cunning plan said:
I think I have found the range of gauges I would like to use! :party0021:

Here's the Speedo:

1186_d.jpg


:jerkoff:

Although, they are an American company and do not have distributors in England.

:sign0001:

Check out http://www.realsteel.co.uk they do most autometer gear and are the.cheapest around. I'm sure they are a U.K distributor.

Des
 
5erge said:
Check out http://www.realsteel.co.uk they do most autometer gear and are the.cheapest around. I'm sure they are a U.K distributor.

Des

Hey chap, thanks for that, but I have already tried contacting them and have had nothing back :? :roll:

Buss69 said:
It's progress buddy and in the right direction. 8) It's also a lot more than I have done on my bus as well :cry: Strong work :D

:)
 
Parts drop!

3/4" Breaker bar to help with the rear castle-nuts as I am re-building the rear suspension.

34BreakerBar.jpg
 
cunning plan said:
I have planned something a little different for it........ ;)


... and here is that something a little different:

IMG_20130818_143401.jpg


IMG_20130818_143426.jpg


Back of the deck-lid and the steering column.

Having issues getting the spring plates back on as they are adjustable and have a larger diameter on the back of the plate than the originals, this is expanding the rubber bushing too much to then sit in the axle recess properly to then connect with the torsion bars. So I am sourcing larger replacements now I have the exact measurements. :shadey:
 
cunning plan said:
cunning plan said:
Having issues getting the spring plates back on as they are adjustable and have a larger diameter on the back of the plate than the originals, this is expanding the rubber bushing too much to then sit in the axle recess properly to then connect with the torsion bars. So I am sourcing larger replacements now I have the exact measurements. :shadey:

Like to see some pictures of this problem fella. I'm thinking of going down your route with the rear spring plates and would be interested in the actual issue you are facing.

Liking the check effect as well. I have a mate with a late crew cab who's done the front of his bus in check :)
 
Cheers buddy. I'm not planning to do lots in checkers, just the odd bit of detailing. :rocknroll:

Regarding spring plates, threads you need are:

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=52658" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53261&p=446225" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

:)
 
Parts drop!

springplateparts-1.jpg


The custom-made headlining arrived from MegaVanMats too, but I didn't take a picture of it. :roll:
 
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