Diary of a virgin (engine rebuilder) - still signs of leaking..

[megaaircooledvw]

So you are going to spend a lot of money rebuilding an engine and put an old oil pump in,its only 20 quid

 

[Termite]

Well I managed to split the case yesterday


Didn't look too bad to the untrained eye. I currently have it degreasing in a tub and 10 litres od Screwfix No Nonsense Heavy duty degreaser.



Off up the workshop in a bit to carry on with the degrease, rinse the engine off and then read the inspection chapter in the Wilson book and inspect the case. Anything I shoul be keeping an eye out for?

 

[Termite]

First problem of the day, the shell bearings appear to be stuck in the case. How can I get the out without damaging them or the case?

 

[atafonso]

Use a small screwdriver and place it in the oil hole but don't go all the way in so it doesn't scratch the case. Gently lift the one side of the bearing, then it should come off.
Abel

 

[Termite]

You are correct, came out easily with a little screwdriver. should've tried that before a mate gave it a helpful tap with a hammer. Thankfully the bearing has worn enough that you can see the brass, so will need replacing.

Off to the jetwash shortly once I get the oil pressure relief valve out.

 

[megaaircooledvw]

Should be 2 relief valves.

 

[Termite]

Yep, the one in the sump came out and the other snapped my screwdriver socket. That one is well and truly stuck in and has chewed up slightly! No idea how I am going to get that out, short of grinding another slot in it with a dremel and having another go.

Other bits I cannot appear to get out the case are the fuel pump pedestal which appears to be stuck solid and as a result I cannot remove the distributor drive gear.

Didn't get a post-jet washed picture, will have to grab one of those tomorrow.

 

[megaaircooledvw]

The fuel pump ped is origenal and wil need to be brocken out,new one req,relief valves get a large driver and put on an angle and hit out

 

[Termite]

Bugger, that's annoying having to break it out.

I'll try the screwdriver on an angle thing tomorrow.

 

[atafonso]

I use a gas torch to heat it up and then do what megaaircooled said with the big screw driver and a hammer. Normally after giving one or two it comes loose.
Abel

 

[Termite]

Got it out in the end, think the liquid spanner overnight helped.

Now how to get the actual valves out. Springs out fine but the plumbers don't want to fall out .

 

[megaaircooledvw]

There is a tool to extract them otherwise a screw driver tapped into end of piston will do.

 

[Termite]

So today's progress...

- broke the fuel pump pedestal out (they must swell up the hell of a lot as it took some bashing out)
- removed the oil pressure relief valve plungers using a M12 tap and dragging them out (I didn't have any luck with the screwdriver). Both valves looked the same, even though the pictures I've seen of them one appears to have a groove in it.
- measured the side play in the con rods. Appears to be around 0.25mm, so within specs.
- took off the bearings from the crank as far as the dizzy and timing gear, but those are stuck.

I think I'm going to have to buy the puller for the gear. I heated it up with a blow torch and the distirbutor gear moved a bit but I couldn't manage to get it off. The rest of the crank was heating up and I assume that expanded too much. Tried popping it in the freezer for 20 mins while I had a cup of tea and then tried to just heat the gear, but no luck getting it off. It doesn't appear to be possible to get a grip of it with a normal 3 legged puller, so I think I'm just going to have to get the right one.

The crank itself looked ok with no major scoring on the surfaces and I can hardly feel anything with my fingernails, so I don't think that will need any work.

With regards to new bearings, if the crank has no work done to it and the case doesn't have to have any, do I just get a normal set of bearings and put those in?

 

[Termite]

So a bit more progress this week....

My crank gear puller tool from VW Heritage turned up. Expensive bit of kit, but appeared well made and nice and tough. Which was a good job as it took about 10 minutes even with an air impact gun to get the gears off! I think the compressor is a bit weedy though.


Once those were off, I stripped the rest of the crank down, removing all the con rods and checking the bearings. The bearings showed signs of wear








So I think a new set of bearings all round - con rods, main bearings and cam shaft bearings. When putting the thrust bearing back in the case, it appeared to be nice and tight with no play. I assuming that a good sign?

Sunday's plan is to try and clean the bearing shoulders in the case as they appear a bit corroded. The crank runs over/within the bearings so how flat/smooth do they need to be if there's a bearing sat on top of it?

 

[rlepecha]

Fairly smooth, the oil pressure is maintained behind the back of the bearing shells, so bad corrosion and such would potentially cause a leak path an d you may end up with reduced oil pressure on the bearing's.

Sent from my Siswoo C55 using Tapatalk

 

[Termite]

Ah ok. That's gives me some understanding. I will try and see if I can clear up any corrossion with a scotch pad and see how it looks after that.

 

[VeeDubMan]

I'd get the crank journals all checked out too make sure they're all nice and round still. Have you got this book too? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rebuild-Aircooled-VW-Engines-HP255/dp/0895862255

 

[Termite]

Yep, got that book.

 

[Termite]

The case got another clean at the weekend, with all mating surfaces cleaned with a fine scotch pad. I also cleaned up the cam and the crank.

Found a couple of good threads on the Samba (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=513083" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/Jim_Martin_Engine_Build/Jim_Martin_Engine_Build.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false that I've been having a read of.

Thursday night I'm going to measure everything and then think about ordering the new bearings so I can build up the short block.

Regarding cam followers/lifters, can you use and old cam with new lifters? I need to double check tomorrow night, but I think when I removed the followers they were dipped on top rather than a slight crown. If that is the case they need replacing right? If they are replaced, do I need a new cam? If I don't need a new cam, do you still need to do the 20 mins at 2000rpm run-in period when you first fire up the engine? I', aware firing anything up at the moment is a long way off!

 

[Termite]

I've cleaned up 4 1600 cyclinder heads today and I fear they are all no use and have minor cracks in them. The only one that did seem to be ok on the crack front, I managed to break a chunk of the valve guide off when tapping a stuck valve out with a hammer.

Pics to follow...