End float assistance please

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gas1man

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
2,271
Reaction score
303
Location
Dorset
Year of Your Van(s)
1971
Van Type
Dormobile
Good day all,

End float is supposed to be between 0.07 and 0.15.
Just discovered mine is 0.19 is this to far gone or can I put it back together?
Has been shimmed in the past.

J & P
:D :D :D

Edit: So taken off the fly wheel to discover no shims( that's because I don't know where they are) and the end float is now excessive compared to
when the flywheel is on...........Any ideas?
Now found shims and only two making up 1mm in total.
 
Theres a lot of engines running around with a lot more than .019 end float.As you say spec is between .007 and .015 but an extra .004 is not going to make much difference. If you have a good set of feeler gauges check how much this is. If you want to set end float to factory spec you will need a dial gauge to do so .As you have the shims out you will have removed oil seal. There should be 3 shims, make sure that you have removed all shims from crankshaft and replace flywheel and lock it tight and measure end float with dial. When you get figure deduct .007 from this figure and you will end up with the amount that you need to make up with shims.Because of wear on thrust bearing you might not get shims to get gap down to .007 but any were between up to .015 will do. THERE SHOULD BE 3 SHIMS to make up end float not 2. Fit new crankshaft oil seal and also oil ring that fits inside flywheel.
Robert
 
Careful with the shims.

Say, your engine was built with 0.01mm end float, and this was obtained with shims. Lets say the builder used 3 in total as he/she should have done.

When new, there's no play at all between the bearing and the case. So all of that 0.01mm was from the flywheel being set that way- the clearance is between the bearing and flywheel, and prevents the flywheel locking up against the engine case and spinning your bearing/ruining your case.

Now, you do, say, 50,000 miles in your engine, and you start to get end-float. You notice now that you've got 0.02mm. If you try to "shim it out" all you're doing is reducing the intentional clearance between flywheel and bearing, to the point where you'll cause the flywheel to jam against the bearing.

Personally, I would never re-shim an engine. Only when you've just built it and you know what the ACTUAL endfloat is, not the total figure from both end-float and bearing->case wear.

To be fair, 0.019mm is absolutely nothing. Do it back up and drive it.
 
Just as another opinion, I shimmed my engine, it has 7 shims I believe!!! they have been in there for 5 years, I have driven thousands of miles, it doesn't leek oil from the front of the engine and runs like a dream, now don't get me wrong I'm not happy about it, hence me building a new engine, but a few shims have kept my van on the road.
 

Latest posts

Top