End Float

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It's the amount of movement in the crank from end to end, not a way of measurement but grab the bottom pulley and pull/push back and forth and if you can feel movement than you may have a problem, to check how much it's strictly engine out and strip down, unless someone else has an easier way.
 
Factory endfloat is set at between 0.06 & 0.13mm.

You need this endfloat to allow for heat expansion. If you have zero endfloat the engine will seize.

The endfloat is set buy fitting the correct size shims between the rear bearing & the flywheel. 3 shims are always used to spread the wear between them.

Excess endfloat is usually excessive wear to the rear bearing & crank case. The crank case is soft magnesium ally & can be damaged easily. Once there is wear in the engine the case can take a pounding.

It is possible to thrust cut the case & fit a thicker bearing, but once the limit is reached, the case is scrap.

As said above, pull the bottom pulley in & out by hand & see if there is excess movement. t will feel a lot more than there really is. I can be measured at the flywheel, usually with the oil seal removed to be accurate.

Don't be fooled into thinking that endfloat can be put right by re-shimming an engine. You may be able to take a tiny amount out, but any more & the engine will run very tight when hot & the oil light will come on.

You have been warned!
 
^^^WHS and pete knows his onions :wink:
 
easy said:
^^^WHS and pete knows his onions :wink:

cool, If I get into pickling shallots I'll know who to ask.

:wink: :lol:

Thanks for the replies, nice clear explanations.

Cheers

Tim
 
its all about the shallots! :wink:
 
pete nice said:
Factory endfloat is set at between 0.06 & 0.13mm.

You need this endfloat to allow for heat expansion. If you have zero endfloat the engine will seize.

The endfloat is set buy fitting the correct size shims between the rear bearing & the flywheel. 3 shims are always used to spread the wear between them.

Excess endfloat is usually excessive wear to the rear bearing & crank case. The crank case is soft magnesium ally & can be damaged easily. Once there is wear in the engine the case can take a pounding.

It is possible to thrust cut the case & fit a thicker bearing, but once the limit is reached, the case is scrap.

As said above, pull the bottom pulley in & out by hand & see if there is excess movement. t will feel a lot more than there really is. I can be measured at the flywheel, usually with the oil seal removed to be accurate.

Don't be fooled into thinking that endfloat can be put right by re-shimming an engine. You may be able to take a tiny amount out, but any more & the engine will run very tight when hot & the oil light will come on.

You have been warned!

Oh! i was trying to be basic :shock: , know I now where to come for advice in the future
 
Your method Ian is a tried & tested way to see if an engine is kippered or not. I do it on a daily basis ;)

It's when it's in between ok & kippered when you can measure it.
 

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