engine seize problem twice help please

[privatejobs]

hi I hope theres some one who can return my sanity I have rebuilt my 1600 tp engine 2 times now the first time I built it with new 8 dowel crank new 8 dowel fly wheel new 1641 b/pistons new empi 110 cam all new bearings and a line bore from steve strange ? anyway built it up started it fine run for 30 mins to run in the cam with the new lifters fine changed the oil run again drove around the car park locked it up sat night came to work Monday started up reversed out of garage and stopped suddenly would not turn over tried to turn crank stuck solid so stripped engine and foud the front bearing next to fly wheel stuck hard on crank and dowel pin was at an angle in case removed bearing and it was scored on opposite sides like it was pinched or oval phone steve up and asked his advise he said I torqued the case nuts wrong I torqued to the bently book 24 pounds he said 18 pounds when I futher in spected the bearing it looked like the dowel had pushed into the bearing causing it to swish it so restarted rebuild filled down the dowel pins to clear the bearings measured all the parts again the only thing I could not check was the line bore when setting the end float asked steve who said he sets it to 6/7 thou witch in the specs is to much a said it should be between 3/5 thou he then said it would sieze if I set it to factory settings when I asked why he just dismissed my question and that was that so rebuilt the whole engine again at each stage I made sure you could turn it over freely by hand so started it up yesterday Saturday fine run for nearly 4 hours faffing around with mixture then run out of fuel so today sunday went into work to fill up with fuel started the engine and you guessed it right bonk the same frikken thing wtf am 100 percent sure its not me either the new crank is wrong or the line bore the shells are standard 1 +1 plus steve re did the thrust 1mso any ideas when running its the nuts am at a loss any help would be gratefully accepted thanks

 

[Trikky2]

Could it be an oil supply problem?

The bearing that's seizing is the last in line.

 

[privatejobs]

hi tricky we and I think its the linebore not done correctly ie its a nats cock out pinching the bearings fingers crossed :lol:

 

[dustrat]

Sorry to hear about your engine problems. After reading your article 3 or 4 times I have come up with a possiblity to your problem, but without seeing engine it is only a possibilty. As Trikky2 says it is an oil problem, but what! First I don't k now where Steve gets his touque setting from or end play setting. He seems to be getting Ft-lbs mixed up Nm.The 6 main case bolts should be tightened up to 15 Ft-lbs first then 20 Ft-lbs and then finally 25 Ft-lbs which is final setting you have done.The smaller case bolts and studs to 14 Ft-lbs. I perfer to do them by Nm but as long as result is same no problem. As far as end play is concerned I set at 0.07 mm which is the equivalent of 0.003 in. The setting he has recommended is maximum before having case fly cut..Again you were setting end play correctly.So what is causing problem?
Unfortunatley from the information you have given it sounds like a classic case of error during rebuild. You say that after first seizure you found that dowel pin had been pulled to one side and bearing was tight on shaft. Those systems lead to believe that bearing was not seated on dowel correctley and has caused bearing to nip crankshaft.I take it that you replaced this bearing with a new one but the problem re-occurred , why? Check crankcase where bearing fits as when dowel has been pushed out of place I think you will find there is a raised bur. Use a straight edge to check this! If as I think there is a bur there this will cause the bearing to again lock on shaft when engine is warm. With a new shaft and bearings there is not a lot of free tolerance. There are a couple of ways to get rid of this bur , try and file it down or if you are still on speaking terms with Steve ask him to run line boring tool through to get rid of bur. As he or who ever does boring will have to set tool up you my have to pay.Hopefully the dowel locating pin hole will still hold dowel if not use some liquid metal to solve problem. DO THIS BEFORE FILING OR HAVING BORED AGAIN. You are not the first person to have made this mistake, even I who have been building engines for a long time and am well retired have done this as well. A tip, when replacing this thrust bearing mark case with felt pen at center of dowel and bearing center where location hole is.Im 99% sure this is your problem,if not let me know other wise
Robert
:idea: :idea:

 

[privatejobs]

dustrat thanks for reply I did mark all bearing regarding dowel location the guy who is fixing the problem says it is 100 percent line bore not the original guy who line bored it but some one who has 40 years of building vw aircooled engines thanks again

 

[privatejobs]

well got the short block back its so nice having a professional do your engine instead of a ************************* steve strong did not line bore it correctly which cost me two sets of bearings and two gasket sets and oil not going to get any of that back

 

[Trikky2]

Let us know how you get on.

Who did you use to get the line bore re-done?

 

[privatejobs]

a guy called Robert parry in wisbech Cambridge Align Boring, Camshaft Align Boring, Case repairs, Engine and Transmission Reconditioning and repairs.
Ball joints and Link and King Pins. 07503449752

 

[K@rlos]

Camping with my engine builder chum Friday, will have a word with him.

 

[privatejobs]

Camping with my engine builder chum Friday, will have a word with him.

cheers

 

[privatejobs]

all fitted and driving the dogs doo daas fingers x see what its like tomorrow that's when the last 2 builds failed :lol: :lol:

 

[jonboylaw]

Good luck !


Sent from my GX64 SatCom phone using Tapatalk