Engine upgrade parts

[pete nice]

The 0.3 side float is about normal on the con rod. You need a fair bit of clearance to make it work.

There won't be 1mm at the little end as the barrel holds the piston in place & the gudgeon pin goes through the little end bush. They are tied together so you won't get any more than 0.3 at either end.

In reality the piston & rod find there natural resting place & sit there quite happily.

If your bottom end is sick, you would here it knock when it is running. I doubt if there is too much wrong...

 

[billybradshaw]

Thanks Pete, that helps to put my mind at rest. I can't recall any worrying noise when the engine was last run but that is over a year ago.

I'm gonna go with your suggestions and get my 043 heads flowed. I'm pretty certain these heads have been reconditioned as they had shims in the combustion chamber, does this mean that they've been flycut at some point and if so is this a problem or just a case of not being 100% ideal?

Thanks again

Ian

 

[james_stan]

Hey Billy

Nice picture. I would be inclined to take what Pete says as 'Gospel'.
he's a professional and I'm merely an enthusiastic amateur.

Your 0.3 mm is about 13-14 thou which sound to be in limits as you say
but the rocking probably 'feels' worse than it actually is. If there is no (perceptable) back and forth movement from tugging the conrod on its axis then I would relax.

Cheers

James

 

[billybradshaw]

Cheers James, I've tugged on my rod as it were and I can't feel owt so I'll leave things be and go for the mods and get back on the road.

Tell y' what, never thought I'd be too bothered about building a VW high perf engine cos I got my other car for that but having looked at what's out there I think now that I'm going to have to build one, just don't tell the GF :wink:

 

[angus]

Likewise billy.... :lol:

 

[billybradshaw]

What's that Angus, you've pulled your rod too? :lol:

 

[pete nice]

Sometimes the engine re conditioners will either fly cut a head, but normally the case where the barrels seat. They then use the shim to make up the material they have removed.

If you are going to fit new barrels & pistons you can take a deck height measurement with the shims out. You can do a calculation on the JMR website to set your compression. On a bus engine you don't want to go mad, but if you build your own engine you are likely to maintain it to a much higher standard than a stock recon lump. You can therefore run tighter tolerances as they get checked more often.

I would run up to 9:1 compression, todays fuel is pretty good & the ignition can be knocked back a little. with a pair of carbs & a good exhaust along with the flowed heads will give some good punch. As long as everything is set up right it should plod along happily.

Just because you have more power doesn't mean you are going to drive fast everywhere. What you will find is that you use less of the right foot & just let the engine do the work...

Give Alan at GAC a call, he will open your eyes a little, Although you will be planning a 1776 or 2007 by the time you get off the phone!

 

[billybradshaw]

OK so some measuring involved this weekend to see what's what.

I'll give GAC a call to suss things out. Also, I hadn't realised that VWSpeedshop are only 10 mins away from me so I might pop in to see them too although I'll be under strict instructions to leave my cards at home

 

[billybradshaw]

Good news, my heads are off to GAC this weekend to have some magic worked upon them. Could be a little while before I get them back but I'm sure it'll be worth it.

Thanks for the letting me know about this place Pete, Alan sounds like a good bloke and certainly knows his stuff.

Cheers

Ian

 

[Wannabay]

Interesting reading

I've got a completely stock 1600 set up which runs very well and I want to keep it that way, so no twin carbs etc..............but I would like a bit more oomph to get up the hills

Any ideas?

I don't know what gas flowing the heads entails but would/could it improve power and would it be worth it on a stock 1600?

cheers in advance

 

[pete nice]

It will improve any engine. VW restrict the flow through the heads to keep the revs down, thats why they are so reliable.

By freeing up the ports it will get gas in & out faster & rev higher.

GAC built a 1641, with 110 cam & flowed 040 heads for a mate of mine. He couldn't afford the twin 40's at first so ran it in on the stock pict34. It would still do 100mph.
That was build 9 years ago & now lives in the back of my Mrs Oval. It has 40's now & still runs strong.

 

[currylager]

O.60's are too big really. 0.55's are the ones to use. the 135's will be ok for a 1600, but if you do some mods you might want to hop up to 140's. If you use a stock fuel pump get a pressure regulator too. The pump is strong & can force petrol past the needle valve & flood the engine.

DO NOT TOUCH YOUR HEADS!!! Either leave them stock or get them done properly. You can do as much harm as good. If you go mad you can scrap the casting. Engineers like GAC remove the valves & recut the angle for increased flow, this is not something you can do at home.

Trust me, it is money well spent.

The newer type of 043 has slightly smaller valves than the 040. The Buggy I did a conversion on recently used flowed 043's & it goes well, so you can use your old heads.

My 1776 was built with GAC 040's & that went like stink even with an Engle 100 cam. The compression was bumped right up to give it loads of power.

I am still using those heads on my 2007 build with the 100cam & 1.25 rockers. I have dropped the compression right down to run a turbo...

Small valves will not flow as much air but will flow faster so will make more torque, the engine will pull from tickover right up to about 5,500rpm, thats more than enough in a bus.

Speak to an engine builder & get some advice...

Hey Pete,

do you know where i can get a fuel pressure reguator from?, are they expensive??, i'm sure my ict's can flood because of this.

James

 

[Araon]

someone was selling one here just a few weeks ago possibly Fraggle?

 

[pete nice]

Try Eurocarb. I think they were £26 for the filter king one. They don't sell the rotary type anymore cos they are unreliable.

 

[currylager]

Try Eurocarb. I think they were £26 for the filter king one. They don't sell the rotary type anymore cos they are unreliable.

Ok thanks for that one, will have to give them a bell :wink: