heat exchangers
- Thread starter betsy70
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Matt_B
Well-known member
Heritage sell some "best quaility" repro ones - I bought a set last year and they were pretty good, managed to get hold of some OG ones now, I'm selling the Heritage ones if interested?
Matt_B
Well-known member
The difference is that mount of fins on the internals of them - OG ones have more fins so generate/disapate more heat. I can't comment on if they are any better as my new engine is just being built so haven't used them yet.
I'd say my Heritage ones have been on for less than 5000 miles, Heritage have them at £87.60 each, I think I could do them for £120 posted as they are still quite heavy. Let em know
I'd say my Heritage ones have been on for less than 5000 miles, Heritage have them at £87.60 each, I think I could do them for £120 posted as they are still quite heavy. Let em know
Mike F
Well-known member
I'd say keep looking for originals. I managed to scoop a set on here a few weeks ago, slammedkustom fitted them and they are amazing. Just shows the heating system could work as efficiently as on any normal car with the correct equipment.
mattp
Well-known member
Over the years I have found 3 qualities
Generic repro (dansk) -the worst in heat output but fine for a beetle
Repro but approx same weight as genuine (still 3 fins) -pretty good
Genuine T1/2 -toasty, too hot for a beetle, perfect for a bus
Genuine T25, require a couple of mods but so much better than genuine T2
Oh, the things you learn about heating :lol:
Generic repro (dansk) -the worst in heat output but fine for a beetle
Repro but approx same weight as genuine (still 3 fins) -pretty good
Genuine T1/2 -toasty, too hot for a beetle, perfect for a bus
Genuine T25, require a couple of mods but so much better than genuine T2
Oh, the things you learn about heating :lol:
mattp said:Over the years I have found 3 qualities
Generic repro (dansk) -the worst in heat output but fine for a beetle
Repro but approx same weight as genuine (still 3 fins) -pretty good
Genuine T1/2 -toasty, too hot for a beetle, perfect for a bus
Genuine T25, require a couple of mods but so much better than genuine T2
Oh, the things you learn about heating :lol:
Interesting :idea: Whats involved in modifying the T25 ones to fit?
Yes please, more info required...
And me,,,,, I wanna know too !!
Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,
Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,
jacks906
Well-known member
me too :mrgreen:
might be tempted to install all the heating bits i need, all this talk of warmth :mrgreen:
might be tempted to install all the heating bits i need, all this talk of warmth :mrgreen:
easy said:So quick question, bar the OG ones, who sells the best new ones at the mo then?
Machine 7 i guess?
I think everyone`s waiting for someone else to buy and fit them !,, I`m still interested on hearing about the t25 mods required, especially if they are that much better, and if they are newer and genuine VW it would make sense that VW would improve them,,,, I think. :msn4:
Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,
Right then, bit the bullet and bought some from Machine 7 arrived the next day as always so hats off to them guys (they have also got a special bundle deal on at the mo worth looking at)
Now i know they are not OG, but i have been talking to a few people and they seem to be pretty good, so its worth the risk (I can always get OG ones later) I think the main thing is that they are all sealed up nice and tight, with no air leaks.
So now I have a new dilema! i am going to paint them and then wrap them in exhaust wrap to give me extra heat........So my new question is... which high temp rust inhibiting paint do i use?
Has anyone done this?, and what pointers can they give me as I havent wrapped my heat exchangers before so its virgin ground for me! :lol: 8)
Now i know they are not OG, but i have been talking to a few people and they seem to be pretty good, so its worth the risk (I can always get OG ones later) I think the main thing is that they are all sealed up nice and tight, with no air leaks.
So now I have a new dilema! i am going to paint them and then wrap them in exhaust wrap to give me extra heat........So my new question is... which high temp rust inhibiting paint do i use?
Has anyone done this?, and what pointers can they give me as I havent wrapped my heat exchangers before so its virgin ground for me! :lol: 8)
ecvwfan
Member
Finally a thread I can contribute to!
Easy you don't have to paint then but if you do use wood stove high temp paint )comes in rattle cans.
Let it dry completely.
Get some good gloves (header wrap is fiberglass just like home insulation)
Wet your header wrap and start wrapping. Overlap by 1/2 to 3/4keeping it VERY tight. When you are done let it dry overnight then hit it with high temp paint. They have stuff for header wrap. I used the header wrap and paint from DEI (I think-coffee isn't working today). Put 2 or 3 coats of paint on (I used black).
Once you start the bus with them on the wrap with shrink/tighten!
I know this works as I did it on my Harley 3yrs ago and now problems so far!
Easy you don't have to paint then but if you do use wood stove high temp paint )comes in rattle cans.
Let it dry completely.
Get some good gloves (header wrap is fiberglass just like home insulation)
Wet your header wrap and start wrapping. Overlap by 1/2 to 3/4keeping it VERY tight. When you are done let it dry overnight then hit it with high temp paint. They have stuff for header wrap. I used the header wrap and paint from DEI (I think-coffee isn't working today). Put 2 or 3 coats of paint on (I used black).
Once you start the bus with them on the wrap with shrink/tighten!
I know this works as I did it on my Harley 3yrs ago and now problems so far!
