Hot engine

[shiplee123]

I'm not used to air cooled engines , today I took the bus out for a run (my wife's first trip) and prob my longest trip so far but this was just a few miles around the local country side
When I got back I could see the heat /slight smoke or fumes coming from the air vent at the side of the bus. I realise air cooled engines get very hot but is this normal. My engine has had a lot of work and new parts inc exhaust oil changes new pipes etc etc so I'm guessing first few runs the exhaust will have to burn off any stickers on it and other parts may that may get warm will settle down. There wasn't hardly any smell and no smoke in the engine bay just heat and slight smokeyness out of the vent
It's also a very warm day here so that prob don't help

 

[K@rlos]

Was any oil spilt when doing the oil changes? May be a bit caught some where and is burning it off. Was it running rough? Sluggish etc.

 

[StuF]

Sorry to hijack the thread but what is the highest operating temperature that is safe for a standard 1600 SP aircooled engine?
Mine runs around 100/110 degrees when cruising on the motorway and have no idea if this is good or bad? :msn4:

 

[creationblue]

I think with temp gauges it's best to use it as an indication of what your engine is doing rather than compare with someone else's, thing to look for is if it gets wildly higher than normal then worry. I don't have any gauges other than a tacho, and when I got back yesterday after towing the dipstick was bloody hot

 

[shiplee123]

No it was running quite nicely. Second gear splutted a tiny bit for first mile but after that it ran really well once warmed up.
It was prob just that - oil or muck burning off
See what happens next drive it prob wont happen next time.

So you chaps with out any temp gauges (like myself) how do u know if yr van is overheating or running to hot
Why would it run to hot or overheat ?

 

[creationblue]

If the timing is right and the tin is all present and correct including engine seal and you have oil in it then there is no reason for it to overheat, so just enjoy and drive it 8)

 

[shiplee123]

Ummm I have got to confess
I am missing one piece of tin , the rear tinware. Must get that ordered

 

[Hilly_70]

I was always told that if you can remove your dipstick with the bare hand and its not too hot to hold, with the engine at running temp then everythings about right!

.. I know its not a 'technical' answer but it work for me!

.. Oh and er welcome back everyone!

Hilly

 

[mister]

I was always told that if you can remove your dipstick with the bare hand and its not too hot to hold, with the engine at running temp then everythings about right!

.. I know its not a 'technical' answer but it work for me!

.. Oh and er welcome back everyone!

Hilly

I've always used this "rule of... er... thumb" too!

 

[RichardAlexander]

If I remember rightly you have the large tinware that seals the engine to the rear of the engine bay. It is essential that the heat from the engine underneath doesn't get into the main engine bay otherwise the engine gets hotter as it sucks in the hot air, also the cooling fan sucks in hot air and doesn' cool the oil cooler in the housing. The cold air collected from the vent feeds the fan housing and cools the oil, ithe air passing through the veins underneath helps cool the engine. Air and oil cool the engine so get the engine bay sealed or you will cook it. Or yeah if you can't touch the dipstick, your to hot

 

[Tristan71]

I also use the hot dipstick rule maybe your running lean or your timing could be out possibly valve clearances too either way you don't want to run too hot for long

 

[Oh.go.on.then]

Sorry to hijack the thread but what is the highest operating temperature that is safe for a standard 1600 SP aircooled engine?
Mine runs around 100/110 degrees when cruising on the motorway and have no idea if this is good or bad? :msn4:

I've had the same question as my 1776 oil temp is getting to 100 to 110deg on the motorway meaning I have to keep it to 50 - 55 mph otherwise it will go higher.

Does anyone know what temp is safe?

I've got to get round to fitting the remote oil cooler and thermostat today before we go down to Cornwall in a few weeks.

Final question, I'm running a 009 timed at 30 - 32deg at 3500rpm (as best I can tell on a standard bottom pulley). What can cause overheating? Too far advanced?

Cheers

Mike

 

[matty34]

hi all mine to is also running hot,i got it tested by my local restorer and checked timing etc,didn't have time to go any further he said it could be an air leak,and is running lean,were do i look i put wd40 over the inlet seals and arond the carb but no rise in tick over any other test's? cheers matt

 

[Tristan71]

Check your plug condition if your unsure about over heating I run a wide glide deep sump on mine it hold an extra 2 litres of oil roughly and lots of surface area for cooling

 

[Geeze]

The three most common causes of overheating (or just generally running hot):
1. Timing. Check it. Anything outside the 28-32 range is likely to cause issues. Experienced hands can do a good job with a static time and then adjusting by ear but I would strongly recommend anyone not comfortable with this should beg / steal / borrow a timing light and do it properly. Once you've set it, note down the static timing so you can check it when servicing. 8)
2. Fuelling. Too lean will make your engine run hot. The easiest check is to whip a plug out and go by sparkplug colour. There's an excellent pictorial guide in every haynes manual I've ever seen so probably the same on the internet. Usual causes of lean running are poor fuel pressure (check your lines and filter), wrong jets (typically when aftermarket carbs are fitted), air leaks on the inlet side (spray WD40 on every join and listen for a change in the running) or wrong stock carb (years of bodgery :lol: )
3. Missing, mishapen or incorrect tinware. The entire design depends on keeping the top half of the engine in clean cool air (which the fan then draws on) and all the warm (just been used to cool the engine) air underneath. If your tinware has pieces missing, bit gaps (because it's the wrong piece or, commonly, where the heater tubes are meant to go) or just doesn't fit very well (most aftermarket stuff sadly and old gennie bits that have been trodden on one time too many), the fan recirculates the hot air it's already used and the effectiveness suffers, especially when you get caught sitting in traffic.

Those aren't the only reasons (not enough oil is a good one, but I'm assuming we all keep the oil well topped :lol: ) but they probably cover the vast majority of hot running motors I've seen over the years.

 

[matt-me]

a useful article to read, it suggests the safe upper temp is 235 F, or 113 C, so stuF, your ok.

http://www.vw-resource.com/overheating.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;