How easy is it to convert 1600sp to 1600dp

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need to change a couple of the engine head studs and most of the tinware.
the oil cooler and galleys are smaller and the oil cooler itself isnt a straight swap, you need to drill out the mountings.
new manifold and ends, new carb....
to be honest in a bug its okay, in a bus stick with the SP, they are great little engines
if you want a TP then id by one and sell on the single :wink:
 
bus on its way has 1600 sp

got a set of weber idf 40s coming on the way too

hence wanting to swap sp for dp to fun twin 40s :wink:

sound like its more complicated then i thought
 
it will possibly suffer as SP cases dont tend to make good bases for perfomance upgrades. like i said smaller oil gallerys, single oil pressure relif valve arent the best start.
id look for a late model twin port or go for a new one :wink:
 
Slam,

You're basically going to have to build another engine if you want a dual port set-up. Like with a universal dual relief case (suitable for Bug, Bus or Type 3), DP heads, Doghouse fan shroud and oil cooler, dual port intake manifold(s) etc, tinware is different just about all the way around.
I'd keep the 1600 SP intact for now and fiddle with it to get it running the way you like. In the mean time, consider your options for the DP engine, any upgrades and cost, and start looking for a reputable engine man that can build you a nice longblock. Takes some time, don't be hasty. Start saving your pennies. :wink:
 
i cant run my new twin 40 webers on the sp

so dp will be the way to go, converting the sp sounds like a headache, and it a good engine, so maybe better to sell it and get a dp over the winter
 
Dual 40 Webers won't work, you need the DP all the way around. I would keep your original engine, not sell it. Always nice to have a spare hanging around. Weber 40's would be nice on a 1776, thick walled cylinders 1835, or a 1915. These three options involve machine work on your case and heads, cam is at your choice.
 

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