How low?

[Slammed]

Lovin the pics guys.(Deluxedude got any side view pics?)Keep em comin,Im going to get my dropped spindles in the new year and just needing a splitty pitman arm then whey hey....

Do you mean the steering arm? If so you can use a bay one and ream the hole out so the balljoint sits lower, much cheaper and saves mixing and matching splitty and bay tie rod ends.

 

[The zer]

Yeah i do mean the steering arm.Tell me more im not sure what you mean when you say the ball joints will sit lower.I was on the understanding i needed splitty 1 because the bend is different to a bay,And the bay 1 will catch on something.It would be great to save a few quid by not having to mix n match.

 

[Slammed]

Yeah i do mean the steering arm.Tell me more im not sure what you mean when you say the ball joints will sit lower.I was on the understanding i needed splitty 1 because the bend is different to a bay,And the bay 1 will catch on something.It would be great to save a few quid by not having to mix n match.

Yep, because the tubes on a splitty beam are closer together, the inner tie rod ends will catch the tubes. By reaming the inner tie rod holes deeper the tie rod ends sit deeper in the arm so they don't hit.
Slamwerks did mine for a few quid.

 

[EgoTrippin]

Yeah i do mean the steering arm.Tell me more im not sure what you mean when you say the ball joints will sit lower.I was on the understanding i needed splitty 1 because the bend is different to a bay,And the bay 1 will catch on something.It would be great to save a few quid by not having to mix n match.

You do need a splitty steering idler arm/ pitman arm with a splitty beam I reckon. I ran mine with a bay one for 2 years and could only get half left lock as the drag link ball joint catches on the beam when you turn left. A splitty steering arm bends differently to a bay one. I still had to grind a little off the drag link ball joint to make it clear fully. Hope that helps..........

 

[Slammed]

Yeah i do mean the steering arm.Tell me more im not sure what you mean when you say the ball joints will sit lower.I was on the understanding i needed splitty 1 because the bend is different to a bay,And the bay 1 will catch on something.It would be great to save a few quid by not having to mix n match.

You do need a splitty steering idler arm/ pitman arm with a splitty beam I reckon. I ran mine with a bay one for 2 years and could only get half left lock as the drag link ball joint catches on the beam when you turn left. A splitty steering arm bends differently to a bay one. I still had to grind a little off the drag link ball joint to make it clear fully. Hope that helps..........

Thats the same problem I had Steve, until Slamwerks reamed the tie rod end hole deeper. Mine has a bay steering arm and is fine. 8)

 

[The zer]

Thanks for the info guys but just bought a splitty arm.Spindles being sent to slamwerks 2moro.Just need a couple of tie rod ends now.

 

[jacks906]

i have just under an inch between tire and arch on 165 (65 or 55) cant remember off the top of my head :?
it does catch the arch but so far has only polished the metal in the area were it catches :mrgreen:

plus ive gone back to standard tires at the rear so that needs fetching back down this winter

also the beam and floor catch quiet often, its a bitch to get to santa pod, but there are some mods am doing this winter to go lower/stop damage, after bending the chassis leg when i misjudged a grid i slight repair had to be made