New engine and NO power

[Millhouse]

I've fitted a 1776cc engine and 2 litre gearbox in my camper, I've taken it out around the block to check it goes ok and it doesn't. It really struggles up the smallest of inclines ( I ended up in first gear and it only just made it up).

The brakes aren't sticking as I've checked and renewed them, it all moves freely.

The timing has been done.

The carbs have been stripped down cleaned and rebuilt, checked all the jets are the correct sizes for the engine. They have also been set up correctly (I didn't do it)

I've also changed the fuel pump to a cb rotary one.

Any idea why the engine lacks power?
Is the gearbox the wrong one?

The spec of the engine if it helps:
1776cc barrels and pistons,
engle 110 camshaft or similar,
CB performance 044 cylinder heads,
Dellorto DRLA 40 carbs,
Vintage speed exhaust,
Flamethrower distributor and coil etc.

I've got the feeling the person I got the 1776cc long block from has ripped me off, I'm beginning to think it isn't a 1776cc. I'm thinking this because the spark plugs were black when I took then out, over fuelling perhaps?

If anybody can suggest what's wrong with the engine that would be great as I've had enough of the camper now, its been nothing but grief and money since I got it.

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[RePhil]

A long shot & please don't be offended - but are you sure it's in first.
I guess the box & everything has been out so gearstick will probably have been moved.

I once pulled away in 3rd in a Vitesse & was under impressed by the acceleration :mrgreen:

Phil.

 

[gvee]

How does it rev? As in... Out of gear, foot to floor. Over fuelling is a possible sign of the timing being out.

 

[Dave.P]

How old is the clutch plate ?
When mine had gone on my old engine it had no go especially up hills.

 

[Millhouse]

Thanks for all the replies.

Its got a new clutch fitted.
The engine has no go along the flat as well.

Out of gear it revs fine.
With the old fuel pump I was using (facet electric pump) it did pop and would hunt at idle but with the new pump it revs and idles well.

Its in first, I'll check again just to make sure though.

 

[bac2ba6]

Check for any air leaks on the manifolds, I know you said they were but are you sure the carbs are properly synced and balanced, only other thing I can think of is electrical, flame thrower coils don't have the best reputation, could try taking a direct feed from the battery to the coil see if it runs better that would maybe suggest some duff wiring and swap coil if you have a spare, are plugs gapped correctly, also valve gaps set right?
Have you got a pressure regulator fitted to pump to stop any possible over fuelling?

 

[Moseley]

As I'm understanding what you've written, the engine is second hand. What have you actually done to check the engine is good? Have you carried out a compression test? Adjusted valve clearances?

Start with the basics and work from there, there's no point swapping out parts until then. At least it runs, so you've got something to work with!

 

[Millhouse]

I got the engine as a long block,
A copy of parts used and what he has done is taken from a recent advert from the engine builder:

ALL RECONDITIONED UNITS CONTAIN THE FOLLOWING:

ENGINE CASE ALIGN BORED
TOTAL BOTTOM END REBUILD
REGROUND CRANKSHAFT
FULL SET OF NEW BEARINGS
ENDFLOAT SET TO FACTORY TOLERANCE
NEW CAM FOLLOWERS
NEW PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT + CAM WHEEL
REFURBED/BALANCED CON RODS
NEW OIL PUMP
NEW1776CC BARRELS AND PISTONS
NEW PUSHROD TUBES
GENUINE VW PUSHRODS
NEW OR GOOD CONDITION 200MM FLYWHEEL
ENGINE CASE SPRAYED IN SATIN BLACK (UNLESS SPECIFIED)
ALL NUTS AND BOLTS SUPPLIED
ALL NEW SEALS/GASKETS + OIL COOLER/DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SEALS SUPPLIED
TAPPETS SET
UNIT SUPPLIED AT TDC ON NO.1 CYLINDER FOR EASE OF DISTRIBUTOR FITTING
HEADS COMPLETELY REBUILT
DECOKED/DEGREASED/VALVES LAPPED IN
HEADS LEAK TESTED BEFORE FITTING

I asked for CB performance heads, so ignore where it describes what's been done to the heads.

I haven't done a compression test yet as its a recon unit but think I might have to do a test just to be sure.
Do you think the engines been put together wrong?

 

[K@rlos]

If your that worried you've been ripped off pull a head off and measure the bore. Will be 90.5 if it's a 1776

 

[paul_q]

Get somebody to press the accelerator pedal and check your carbs are opening fully.

 

[Moseley]

I don't know about putting it together wrong, but maybe some thing has been missed. After all, you are taking the word of everyone involved in your engine that it has been put together, and adjusted correctly. Without wanting to stray too much off subject, I have recently been helping the Mrs' old man reinstall a fully rebuilt engine in his TVR. All back in and everything reconnected, long story short, the engine builder appears to have forgotten to have put one of the core plugs in that sits behind the flywheel. So it's all coming out again in the near future.

Call me sceptical, but I'd think that in your situation, I'd just go over the basics and check that they are ok - valve gaps, plug gaps, fuel filter etc etc. you shouldn't really have to, but peace of mind says to me that if you've checked it yourself, you can be sure it's been done.

 

[sam@bugeyeddesigns]

Was the engine builder Steve Strong Engines?

 

[cooky73]

Have you asked the supplier for advice?

 

[lhu128l]

What size vent are in the carbs ?

 

[subheatadey]

My pennys worth is air leak or one of your carbs isn't functioning as it should.

 

[Millhouse]

Was the engine builder Steve Strong Engines?

Yes it was, I got the engine a while ago before I heard all the negative things about him. I would have fitted the engine a lot sooner but discovered a lot of previous bad repairs on the van so it ended up with me and my cousin taking a year replacing most of the chassis and various other panels.

I'm not sure what the vent size is, if I remember correctly I think they're 28.

Thanks for all the replies and help. Over the weekend I will check all the basics and do a compression test.

What's the best way to check for air leaks?

I'm using NGK 12mm spark plugs due to the 044 heads, would the spark plug gap still be the same as using standard heads and plugs?

I remember the engine builder saying he had trouble getting the correct size heads so he had to get the heads for a 1600 and have them machined to suit a 1776cc.
Could that cause any problems?
Would a 1600 engine struggle with a 2 litre gearbox?

 

[georgeyv]

Having the heads machined is how they get the larger barrels + pistons to fit so that sounds about right.

Check for air leaks using carb cleaner - spray it on the joints that may be leaking (manifolds to cyl head, carb to manifold) and see if the engine note changes - if it changes/revs rise slightly its probably leaking air.

 

[Whistler]

Check the simple things, are you revving it by doing it your self in the engine bay? I had the same issue and it was a combination of the accelerator peddle not being tight and the cable through the linkage loose. 5 seconds later and a spanner as it was awesome.

 

[Millhouse]

Thanks again for all the replies.

I've now done a compression test and all cylinders had the same result.
Checked and adjusted the valve clearances.
Adjusted the throttle so it opens up more.
Cleaned and adjusted the spark plugs.
Checked that the fuel filter was clear and it still looks like new.

When I took the spark plugs out I noticed that on the one side of the engine the spark plugs were very black and on the other side they were clean.
I'm thinking that the carbs are not set up right, one side too rich and the other side lean perhaps?

Anyone know how to adjust the carbs correctly?
How should I do it?

The carbs are dellorto DRLA 40

Thanks

 

[Dave.P]

Presuming all of your jets and emulsion tubes are the same, (might be worth whipping them all out of the top to check this) it's useful to know what you've got in them too.
I would wind in the mixture screws in one at a time, starting on the clean plug side, count how many turns in and return to that setting. Check for differences ( think mine are 3&1/2 - 4 turns out ish ) also be wise to synch them with a snail gauge as they won't run well if out as already said above.
Also check you're getting a good squirt down the all the chokes as you pull on the throttle.
If you're not running a fuel pressure regulator you need one as they don't like it over 3.5 psi

The dellorto book by bob Tomlinson is a belter, lots of fault finding answers in there.