Painting inside outriggers/sills etc.. - should you?

[Termite]

Hi

I'm in the process of putting on new sills, outriggers and jacking points on my van and have purchased these from Autocraft.

The parts are bare metal and covered in an oil which I will decrease before welding. But should I paint the insides of them before welding them on for extra protection and if so, what with? I have some rustoleum that I painted the centre chassis sections before I discovered the rot under the belly pans.

I asked a mate but he reckons it would burn off during welding, but as it's only the flanges that get plug welded, it seems like I should try protecting the inside of the box sections as much as possible.

Any advice?

Thanks,
Termite

 

[subheatadey]

Personally I would stick to waxoyl, there are access points both ends of the sill and with a long probe and lots of protection you won't have a problem if you repeat the process every now and then. No matter how ell you paint it there are going to be areas where the metal are exposed when it is tacked on I would have thought and this will rust. Just my thoughts?

 

[Termite]

Yeah, I was thinking where it was tacked it would burn off, but it was the bits at the top of the box section and inside the top hats etc.. where it would only burn off if the heat in the part was sustained that I'm wondering how to protect. The plan is to spray a load of ankor wax up there once it's all welded on and the outside of them painted, and as you say I suppose once it's done and I spray that in there, applying that again every couple of years should be ok you'd have thought?

 

[Trikky2]

Yes that would work though personally I find waxoyle too thick and have always used Dinitrol which creeps right into the seams rather than leaving a thick coating which bridges small seams.

If you apply Dinitrol correctly inside box sections its a one time treatment that does not need to be re applied.

 

[subheatadey]

I've been using waxoyl 'cos it's cheap but I think I need to bite the bullet and get hold of some Dintitrol for inside the belly pans so it runs in between the chassis members methinks You pay for what you get i suppose.

 

[Termite]

Let me know if it's any good as I have a 5 litre tin of Ankor Wax that I was going to put in a bucket of hot water to thin out a bit before injecting into all the cavities.

 

[Trikky2]

If using a thicker wax then heating it will thin it. Unfortunately when it hits the metal it cools rapidly and still won't creep. To get a good creep your better off thinning it down.

 

[paul_q]

I would at least give it a coat of weld through primer first before fitting then dinitrol when fitted.

 

[Termite]

Just an update. In the end I have sprayed all of the parts to be welded with Zinc Galvanising Spray from Screwfix. It's spot-weldable and has been fine during welding.

 

[Clem]

I always use the zinc weld-thru primer on panels and then wax (of your choice) afterwards.

 

[Termite]

Once it's all complete, I'm looking at either Dinitrol (as it's a bit thinner to soak into seams) or using the gallon tub of Ankor wax i have.

Any thoughts on how easy it is to just remove the inner sill on the sliding door side, rather than taking the outer and middle sills out?