Rear brake cylinders replacement

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strutt

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Hi,

just doing a few jobs on my van, was busy adjusting the handbrake and noticed the drivers side wasn't working correctly? (wouldnt tighten down enough)
i took the drum off and found that the brake cylinder had a small drip (not sure why this has only happend now as i havent been using the van???)
got up to the garage tonight to find a puddle of brake fluid under the van, :roll: so i have clamped the line and am hoping to change the cyclinder ASAP, however i have a coule of quesitons,

1) any tips for changing this?
2) I read somewhere that both sides should be changed in pairs?
3) as brake fluid has got onto the shoes will these need replacing?
4) would the adjustment of the handbrake affect the cylinder in any way, ie causing it to fail or not adjust properly


cheers
Luke
 
Not heard of changing cylinders in pairs, but definitely change shoes in pairs.
Brakes cylinders have a service life just like everything else, and sadly things generally deteriorate quicker when not used!
Your not trying to adjust the handbrake on the cables are you? Adjusting the rear brakes on the star nuts automatically adjusts the handbrake, the cable adjusters are for evening the cable tension due to stretch, so that either side brakes evenly on the handbrake. (sorry if that is teaching you to suck eggs :msn4: )

:)
 
ok, cant say i have ever sucked an egg....so in this case you probably do need to teach me!
I took the slack out, but i tried to use this to 'tighten' then handbrake....i now realise this is wrong. And now you have explained this, the penny has dropped :roll:
and would also explain why my leaky cylinder side was not working correctly.

the cylinders look simple enough to change, am i able to just clean the fluid off with some brake cleaner (hope so as pad replacement looks tricky!)
 
you definately want to change the shoes as brakes are vital and fluid on them will break down the surface of the shoes, if you jack up both sides and remove both wheels then changing just the one side at a time you will have a reference as to how to put back together...it is real easy , i`m no monkey spanner so if i can do it anyone can :lol: ....get that manual out and just have a go ....no specialist tools required and job satisfaction guaranteed
 
ok, cracking.....or maybe not!

just one more question then......any tips on removing the castle nut? or can i get away without doing this?
(probably stupid quesiton, but im at work and cant visualise the set up! :lol:
 
leave the castle nut in place....

in order
remove wheel
remove the holding bolts 10mm that keep the drum in place
slacken off the star adjusters at the back of the set upturning them anticlockwise to release the shoes from the drum
remove drum
take it to bits
replace defective items
replace with new
and then reverse the top lot

good luck
 
ooro said:
you definately want to change the shoes as brakes are vital and fluid on them will break down the surface of the shoes, if you jack up both sides and remove both wheels then changing just the one side at a time you will have a reference as to how to put back together...it is real easy , i`m no monkey spanner so if i can do it anyone can :lol: ....get that manual out and just have a go ....no specialist tools required and job satisfaction guaranteed


I would just clean everything well with something like break cleaner. The shoes will be fine...no need to replace after a fairly light exposure to fluid. Make sure that you take your star wheel adjusters apart and clean/copper grease them. Helps them stay free for future adjustment. Also make sure that you have the rubber plugs in the adjuster holes as without these, dirt and water will get into the brake drums.
 
ooro said:
leave the castle nut in place....

in order
remove wheel
remove the holding bolts 10mm that keep the drum in place
slacken off the star adjusters at the back of the set upturning them anticlockwise to release the shoes from the drum
remove drum
take it to bits
replace defective items
replace with new
and then reverse the top lot

good luck

That'll work for Strutt, but it doesn't work for those unfortunate enough to have wide 5 stud pattern ('68 to '70) who have to remove the drum. :D
 
hmmm, conflicting views!

I think ill just get them clean for now, then get her through MOT, and replace when i get time after?
unless someone has a damning view on cleaning?

I see what you mean now about wide 5, silly hubs :roll: , for once im glad to have the bastard child of a late, :lol:
 
If brake fluid has got onto the braking material, then it is likely, however clean you think you have it, that it's braking efficient will have been reduced to near zero.

I had this trouble on the Squareback ages ago, the shoes looked absolutley fine, but brake fluid contamination had severely affected them, only new shoes did the job.

Apparently the REME used to solve this by dousing the brake shoes in petrol and setting fire to them :shock:

:)
 
Toad said:
ooro said:
you definately want to change the shoes as brakes are vital and fluid on them will break down the surface of the shoes, if you jack up both sides and remove both wheels then changing just the one side at a time you will have a reference as to how to put back together...it is real easy , i`m no monkey spanner so if i can do it anyone can :lol: ....get that manual out and just have a go ....no specialist tools required and job satisfaction guaranteed


I would just clean everything well with something like break cleaner. The shoes will be fine...no need to replace after a fairly light exposure to fluid. Make sure that you take your star wheel adjusters apart and clean/copper grease them. Helps them stay free for future adjustment. Also make sure that you have the rubber plugs in the adjuster holes as without these, dirt and water will get into the brake drums.


imho i think cleaning them no matter how little fluid has got to them is a little risky . fluid will break down the surface of shoes real quickly . better to be safe than sorry for the sake of a few quid, again just my opinion...its your van do what ya like fella
 
All opinions appreciated and i have decided my plan of action!!!!

replace the leaky side now! and get ready for MOT then change the otherside straight after MOT,

Job done.....well not yet but in principle!
all parts have been ordered and M7 have dispatched them already!
im sure ill be back neededing more help on this one soon, :lol:

cheers boys!
 
Hi hope they're not as severe as mine were :lol:

P1020624.jpg
 
Any contamination on brake shoes means replacement. Don't risk lives for such an inexpensive fix. Anyway it's a simple and rewarding job to do and helps you to get to know your van.
 
brake cleaner will remove some fluid contamination if the shoes are in good condition worth doing,if they are cracked or worn just renew them,as for cylinders I woud do the pair,same age so end of life for the other one is due and while you are there bleeding etc etc,from gsf can only be tenner?
 
Bloody hell!! :shock:
I'm trying to rebuild mine complete with backing plates, on a 71, so I'm in the process of trying to release the castle nut. I don't think it's ever been released :cry:
 
Just a tip...I always put masking tape on the friction surface while I'm man handling them about.whip it off just before the drum goes back on...hey Presto...clean shoes!

Hth
 
when I started in the garage trade we used to clean oil ect from brake shoes with a oxy/acet torch no5 nozzle turned low and work it backwards and forwards along metal part of shoe,not getting it to hot! it would drive the oil/brake fluid to the surface and just wipe it off,then they started bonding shoes on ,the contamination would attack the glue and lining can fall off.but as said a very light trace of brake fluid can be cleaned with brake cleaner and then rough lining up with 80grit .


dave -----------------tales to tell the grand kids.not got any yet(releived smiley)
 

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