removing the floor

[jacks906]

hi all

just woundering if there is a best way to remove the rear load floor in the back, gotta change all the top hats and other cross pieces, i am changing both chassis legs at the mo as these were shot (the belly pans wer holding it together i'm guessing :roll: ), and the floor isn't in the best condition so may aswel replace it and make the job hopefully easier.

cheers for any advice

dave

 

[sparkywig]

As you're replacing the top hats anyway, just cut sections of the floor out as you work, probably best not to rip the lot out if it's that rotten. :shock:

 

[Nick-Rackham]

I'd go with Sparkywig, cut out front section, i.e. behind bulkhead B Post, replace tophat and outriggers, tack to inner sill if it's still there, then move back a bit and cut out next section, replace I beam, and so on. That way you make sure the bus is as solid and non flexible as possible, and also lets you line up the tophats and I beams to the inner sills!

 

[jacks906]

hi cheers for the replys
the inner sills are ermmmm kinda there well the bit that connects to the floor bit but the side bits have gone but i should be able to line it up, i'm hoping by the end of this week or next the chassis will be solid as a rock so hopfully not too much flex so i think i better order some floor sections :mrgreen:

dave

 

[sparkywig]

Just remember that the Brazilian floor halves are not as thick as original (pants really), poorer quality, and for left hand drive so you will need to modify them.
Good luck and post some pics of the carnage.

 

[jacks906]

Just remember that the Brazilian floor halves are not as thick as original (pants really), poorer quality, and for left hand drive so you will need to modify them.
Good luck and post some pics of the carnage.

cheers for the reply, i have been reading about the quality of the brazilian floors so i'm woundering now weather or not just to use some 2/3mm mild steel (prob just 2mm will be enough)

dave

pic's of the chassis

one leg off which has now been replaced with 100x50x3mm box

altho the legs dont look too bad other than about a foot in the middle you can push a screw driver threw the rest of it them i think all that holds it together is a 6mm plate across the front and back x-members an the 3mm centre belly pan :lol:

its all gone further back than that last pic its about 3" off the torsion tube that i've gone back to so hopefully will all be sold as after

 

[sparkywig]

Fairly ripe, but have seen worse.

 

[jacks906]

i know i've seen some of the things people have started off with an what they have turned in to very impressed, just depressed of the PO's plate over plate over plate :lol: surely easier to cut out the old and replace with new.

another thing i've been meaning to ask is if there is suppose to be any strengtheners above the jacking points or if the 6mm plates are suppose to be there

 

[type2tattoo]

Don't know if this will help but there are some pics of the floor coming out of mine here......

http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/type2tattoo/CyByLs%20Restoration/?start=660" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and putting a new one in is on page 14 and 40, the quality of the floor isn't very good as has been said, I think I will be painting it with sound deadening paint before the floor goes down hoping it will make it feel a bit more substantial

 

[jacks906]

cool cheers for the photo's how did you get your top hats around the gear shaft tube thingy

cheers
dave

 

[type2tattoo]

cool cheers for the photo's how did you get your top hats around the gear shaft tube thingy

cheers
dave

Had to cut the cross members in half to get them in but didn't need to replace any top hats oh and be careful! we accidently cut a bit of the gear shift tube when taking the floor out and a bit of the accelerater tube